A Day Around Edinburgh’s Old Town

Written by Graeme Johncock
Edinburgh is a city packed with history and hidden gems, somewhere I was happy to call home for almost 10 years. While this isn’t a sprawling metropolis, it can still be difficult to know exactly where to start, so this itinerary around the Old Town is here to help.
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh wouldn’t be here without the ancient fortress perched on Castle Rock. It’s one of the oldest fortified locations in Europe and the scene of many bloody tales. As well as stories from the castle’s many sieges and inhabitants, you’ll have the chance to see the Honours of Scotland –...
You could easily end up spending half the morning or more in Edinburgh Castle, but once you’ve dragged yourself away, head down the steps towards the Grassmarket. For centuries, this was an important trading site for the city, lined with pubs and hostelries just as it is today. Looking back...
Maggie Dicksons
As you walk along the length of the Grassmarket, stop outside a pub called Maggie Dicksons and you’ll notice the shadow of a gibbet marked out on the ground. Once a common spot for public executions, residents rented out the view from upper floor windows for a few pennies! Maggie...
Wander up the elegantly curved Victoria Street with its brightly coloured buildings, often claimed to be an inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. Full of independent shops, it’s also a great place to grab lunch. My personal favourite is the hog-roast takeaway Oink (with haggis stuffing), but there are other...
St. Giles’ Cathedral
Up on the Royal Mile, a visit inside St Giles Cathedral is essential on a trip to Edinburgh. It’s the next most historic spot after the castle and entry is entirely free. What lots of people don’t realise is that it’s dog friendly too! Almost every important figure from Scottish...
Greyfriars Bobby
A short walk along George IV Bridge takes you to the statue of Greyfriars Bobby – the most faithful dog in the world. When Bobby’s master died in the middle of the 1800s, this wee terrier refused to leave his grave. Even though he would be chased from the graveyard,...
Greyfriars Kirk
The first grave you’ll see inside Greyfriars Kirkyard is of Bobby himself, usually covered in a pile of gifted sticks. However, there are many more fascinating headstones to find around here. Some are protected by mortsafes – iron cages used to protect bodies from being dug up and sold to...
There’s no better place to end your day exploring Edinburgh’s Old Town than the National Museum of Scotland. While there are exhibits from around the world, it’s the Scottish section that you should focus on, where you can travel throughout Scotland and its history in a matter of hours. There...
Restaurants on the route

Pickles

Spry Wines
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Bittersweet Leith

The Witchery

Take the Taster Menu at Timberyard

Timberyard

Kanpai

Oink

Jolly Judge

Whiski Rooms

Epicurean

Number 1 at Balmoral

Deacon Brodie's Tavern

Under the Stairs

Aizle

The Huxley

Kyloe

Grazing by Mark Greenaway

BABA

Gusto

Le Monde

Fishers in the City

Noto

Cafe St Honorė

The Dome Edinburgh

Forage & Chatter

Passorn

Checkpoint

Tipo

Yamato

Viva Mexico

Paradise Palms

Dishoom

Arcade Bar, Haggis & Whisky House

Stramash

The Banshee Labyrinth

Café Royal

Ransacked Black Oven

Pomegranate Express

Harajuku Kitchen

NovaPizza Vegetarian Kitchen

Holy Cow

Wellington Coffee
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Cowan and Sons

Howies

The Stockbridge Restaurant

Kilted Lobster

edinburgh street food

Smith & Gertrude

Treacle Bar & Kitchen

Fhior

Pickles

The Lookout by Gardener’s Cottage
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Pizzeria 1926

Boston & Hawthorne

Hendersons

Earls Burger Co

Surf & Turf Holyrood

Paul Kitching 21212

Scran and Scallie

Montpeliers

Spry Wines

Seeds for the Soul

Damm27

Black Fox

Rhubarb

Razzo

The Lioness of Leith

Mistral
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Bittersweet Leith

Borough

Harmonium

Sheep Heid Inn

Chop House

Heron

Restaurant Martin Wishart

Nobles

Hemingways
Cafes on the route

The Elephant House

Grow Urban

Browns Brasserie & Bar

Signet Library

Union Brew Lab

Twelve Triangles

Knights Kitchen Café

Pumpkin Brown Cafe

Maxies Bistro

Hula Juice Bar

Brochan

Castello Coffee

Lowdown Coffee

The Elephant House

Browns Brasserie & Bar

Signet Library

Tea at the Colonnades

Door 127

The Milkman

Union of Genius

Beatnik

Gordon Street Coffee

Urban Angel Cafe

Linton & Co Edinburgh

Cairngorm Coffee Roasters

Union Brew Lab

Strumpets

Fry up at The Edinburgh Larder

Leo’s Beanery

Burr & Co

Ante Café

Spoon

Fortitude Coffee

Room and Rumours Coffee

The Pantry

Grow Urban

Cafe Ink

Throat Punch Coffee Company

Loudons New Waverley

Machina Coffee

Fortitude Coffee Stockbridge

Chapter One

Hot Chocolate at The Chocolate Tree

The Pastry Section

Artisan Roast

Twelve Triangles

101 Bakery

Salt Café

Knights Kitchen Café

Ostara Café

Milk at Edinburgh Sculpture Workshop

Hideout Cafe

Mimi's Bakehouse

Alby's

Printworks Coffee

Williams & Johnson Coffee Co
Shops on the route
Accommodation nearby

Kick Ass Hostels

The Witchery by the Castle

Novotel Edinburgh Centre

Royal Mile Apartment

Virgin Hotel Edinburgh

Radisson Collection Hotel

Waldorf Astoria

Sheridan Grand Hotel & Spa

Tigerlily

Motel One Edinburgh-Royal

Old Town Chambers

Le Monde Hotel

CoDE Pod – THE CoURT

Native Edinburgh

Market Street Hotel

The Edinburgh Mews

The Scotsman Hotel

Cheval The Edinburgh Grand

Gleneagles Townhouse

House of Gods Hotel

The Inn on the Mile

The Balmoral Hotel

The Baxter Hostel

The Bonham

The Rock House

Observatory House

Canon Cave

The Raeburn

Dovecot Cottage

Rustic Urban Retreat

94DR Edinburgh

Murrayfield Hotel

Prestonfield House

Village Hotel Edinburgh

The Pavilion at Lamb's House

Malmaison Edinburgh

Glenlockheart Cottage

Glenlockhart Cottage

Fingal
Attraction nearby

Royal Yacht Britannia

Armchair Books

Edinburgh Printmakers

Saorsa Gallery

Stroll down the medieval Royal Mile

Brew Lab Coffee

Black Medicine Coffee Shop

Mons Meg

Edinburgh Castle Dog Cemetery

Princes Street

The Scotch Whisky Experience

Ross Fountain

Armchair Books

Camera Obscura
The Gardener's Lodge

Wojtek the Soldier Bear Memorial

Edinburgh Books
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Vennel Steps

Flodden Wall

Scottish National Gallery

Susannah Alice Stephen Memorial

Riddle’s Court

Gladstone’s Land
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Golden Hawk Sculpture at Gladstone's Land

Edinburgh Walking Tour

Writers' Museum

Lady Stairs Close

Magdalen Chapel

Johnnie Walker Experience

Transreal Fiction
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The Heart of Midlothian

George Heriot's School

Advocates Close

The Real Mary King's Close

The Lewis Chess Pieces

Dolly the Sheep

Burke and Hare Murder Dolls

Ghostly Underground Edinburgh Tour

Mile to the Museum & National Museum of Scotland Tour

Edinburgh Tour & Whisky Tasting

JK Rowling Handprints

Edinburgh Stills

Cockburn Street

Mercat Cross

The Fruitmarket Gallery

Andy Goldsworthy's 'Hutton Roof'

City Art Centre

Physic Garden

King's Theatre

The Scotsman Steps

King’s Theatre

Talbot Rice Gallery

Check Out The Underground Vaults

Go Ghost hunting

Gilbert the Phone Box

Investigate the neo-classical architecture of the New Town

Brew Lab Coffee

Scottish National Portrait Gallery

Dundas House

The Fine Art Society

Library of Mistakes

Stroll down the medieval Royal Mile
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Edinburgh Book Sculptures
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The Witches' Well

Black Medicine Coffee Shop

Surgeon’s Hall Museums

Dovecot Studios

Fudge Kitchen

The Meadows

John Knox House
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The Scottish Storytelling Centre

Worlds End Close

St. Bernard's Well

Morocco's Land Effigy

Edinburgh Printmakers

Chessells Court

Dean Gardens

Circus Lane

Golden Hare Books

The Manuscript of Monte Cassino

Stockbridge Market

The Dreaming Spires

Saorsa Gallery

Dean Village
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City Observatory

Nelson Monument

Calton Hill

The People's Story Museum

Edinburgh Playhouse

Bakehouse Close

Holyrood Abbey

Lauriston Castle

Till's Bookshop

Have a picnic in the secret gardens

Dunbar's Close Gardens

Stockbridge

Scottish Poetry Library

Topping & Company Bookstore

New Calton Cemetery Watchtower

Dynamic Earth

Holyrood Distillery

McNaughtan's Bookshop & Gallery

Typewronger Books

Scottish Parliament Building

White Horse Close

Edinburgh Bookshop
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Palace of Holyroodhouse

The Stones of Scotland

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

Visit Holyrood Palace
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Hollyrood Palace

Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh

Morningside Gallery

Dominion Cinema

Elvis Shakespeare

The Wild West in Springvalley Gardens

Arthur’s Seat

Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat

Ashley Terrace Boathouse

Ailie Muschat’s Cairn
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Holyrood Park

Walk up Blackford hill

Blackford Hill and the Braid Hills

Star Gaze at the Royal Observatory

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society - The Vaults

Dr Neils Garden

Duddingston Loch & Garden
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Water of Leith
Newhaven

Leith Shore

Royal Yacht Britannia
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Craigmillar Castle Park

Craiglockhart Hill

Edinburgh Zoo

Craigmillar Castle

Portobello Bottle Kilns
Mousehole Deli, Portobello
Edinburgh Castle























Edinburgh wouldn’t be here without the ancient fortress perched on Castle Rock. It’s one of the oldest fortified locations in Europe and the scene of many bloody tales. As well as stories from the castle’s many sieges and inhabitants, you’ll have the chance to see the Honours of Scotland – the crown, sword and sceptre of state. It’s such a popular place to visit in Edinburgh, that you should aim to see it first thing in the morning before it gets too busy! Booking tickets in advance with specified entry times is essential.























You could easily end up spending half the morning or more in Edinburgh Castle, but once you’ve dragged yourself away, head down the steps towards the Grassmarket. For centuries, this was an important trading site for the city, lined with pubs and hostelries just as it is today. Looking back up where you came from, this is one of the best views of the castle. It gets even better if you want to tackle the steps leading up the top of the Vennel!
Maggie Dicksons











As you walk along the length of the Grassmarket, stop outside a pub called Maggie Dicksons and you’ll notice the shadow of a gibbet marked out on the ground. Once a common spot for public executions, residents rented out the view from upper floor windows for a few pennies! Maggie Dickson was a young woman from the early 1700s who was sadly hanged here before being carted away for burial in Musselburgh. Imagine the driver’s surprise when Maggie suddenly woke up! She wasn’t dead, but her sentence had technically been carried out, so the authorities had let her live out her days, now popularly known as Half- Hangit Maggie!











Wander up the elegantly curved Victoria Street with its brightly coloured buildings, often claimed to be an inspiration for Harry Potter’s Diagon Alley. Full of independent shops, it’s also a great place to grab lunch. My personal favourite is the hog-roast takeaway Oink (with haggis stuffing), but there are other great options including Maxies or Maison Bleue. For anybody still hungry, you can get a takeaway Scottish Cheeseboard from I.J. Mellis and follow it up with an afternoon dram from Bow Bar’s excellent whisky selection!
St. Giles’ Cathedral












Up on the Royal Mile, a visit inside St Giles Cathedral is essential on a trip to Edinburgh. It’s the next most historic spot after the castle and entry is entirely free. What lots of people don’t realise is that it’s dog friendly too! Almost every important figure from Scottish history will have stepped foot inside this building at some point. Don’t miss the Thistle Chapel, tucked away in the back-right corner and a marvel of architecture. Once a year, the 16 Knights of the Thistle meet there!












Greyfriars Bobby


A short walk along George IV Bridge takes you to the statue of Greyfriars Bobby – the most faithful dog in the world. When Bobby’s master died in the middle of the 1800s, this wee terrier refused to leave his grave. Even though he would be chased from the graveyard, he always returned. The dog became a local celebrity and this statue was donated by Lady Burnett-Coutts who was touched by the story, but it’s important not to touch it! Misguided tourists rubbing the nose has destroyed it in the process. It’s not something we do for luck!


Greyfriars Kirk






The first grave you’ll see inside Greyfriars Kirkyard is of Bobby himself, usually covered in a pile of gifted sticks. However, there are many more fascinating headstones to find around here. Some are protected by mortsafes – iron cages used to protect bodies from being dug up and sold to the medical school in the 1800s. It’s a fascinating, albeit slightly morbid, place to explore. Just be on your guard at night in case the Mackenzie Poltergeist makes an appearance...






There’s no better place to end your day exploring Edinburgh’s Old Town than the National Museum of Scotland. While there are exhibits from around the world, it’s the Scottish section that you should focus on, where you can travel throughout Scotland and its history in a matter of hours. There are artefacts from long before Scotland was a nation, including the Ballachulish Goddess – a lump of wood carved into a woman’s figure dating from around 600BC. Mysterious carved Pictish Stones are followed by the Arthur’s Seat Coffins and an early guillotine known as the Maiden! There’s enough here that you might even end up coming back the next day!
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