Dishoom

Its menu is Bombay comfort food, and the Edinburgh restaurant is dedicated to a son of the city: Patrick Geddes, the botanist and town planner, who visited an old Irani cafe in Bombay called Kyani and Co in 1923 and thought a place like it would be welcome in Edinburgh.

Inside, the rooms are panelled in dark wood, hung with old photographs and portraits, with bentwood chairs, green-and-white checked cloths and soft lamplight. The day begins with breakfast, the bacon naan roll and house chai among it, and runs on through lunch and dinner to grills, biryanis, black daal and small plates for sharing, with cocktails into the evening.

Dishoom opens every day from eight until late. Tables can be booked before six; after that most seats are kept for walk-ins.