The Spence

The building was a bank for over two hundred years, and the restaurant fills its old banking hall, with tall stone columns, gilded plasterwork, carved busts round the frieze and a glass dome above the bar in the middle of the room. Executive chef Elliot Hill cooks modern classics with produce from across Scotland, with sharing dishes and a dessert trolley to finish, and it's in the Michelin Guide. It opens for breakfast from 7am on weekdays and 8am at weekends, then serves all day from noon until late in the evening. On weekday afternoons there's afternoon tea, booked a day ahead, and on the last Sunday of each month a long Sunday Feast spreads right through the Townhouse. Smart casual suits it, and it's a good idea to book.