The Heart of Midlothian

Because this small mosaic, embedded in the cobblestones of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, is so much more than an overlooked bit of decoration. It’s a quiet cornerstone of the city’s history and culture, marked not by grandeur but by a certain unpretentious weight of tradition. It’s the kind of place that invites you to lean in—to notice, to wonder, and perhaps to spit on it, if you’re feeling particularly traditional.

Set the scene

Walking along the Royal Mile, amidst the hum of bagpipes and the chatter of tourists, it’s easy to overlook the Heart of Midlothian at first. But once you spot it, just outside the towering St Giles’ Cathedral, the mosaic demands a second look. The stones form a heart-shaped emblem, marking the former location of the Old Tolbooth, a building that once served as Edinburgh’s administrative and judicial centre—and its prison. Stories of executions and dire conditions mingle with tales of civic governance, giving the heart a curious duality: a symbol of both civic pride and public disdain.

It’s the tradition of spitting on the heart, however, that often catches visitors off guard. Rooted in historical resentment toward the Old Tolbooth, the gesture has endured and evolved. Today, it’s as much about good luck as it is about irreverence—a small, peculiar way to connect with the city’s past.

What to do nearby

From the heart, it’s only a few steps to St Giles’ Cathedral. The cathedral’s stained-glass windows and soaring arches are striking, but it’s the Thistle Chapel, tucked quietly inside, that really sets it apart. Its intricate carvings and atmospheric lighting make it a true hidden gem. For those with a literary bent, the Writer’s Museum offers a more intimate dive into the lives of Scottish literary greats like Robert Burns and Sir Walter Scott. Tucked down a narrow close, it’s the kind of place that feels like a well-kept secret, even when it’s busy.

Further along the Royal Mile, the closes and wynds branch off like veins, each leading to its own pocket of intrigue. Advocates Close, with its steep descent and perfect framing of the Scott Monument, is a favourite for photographers. Down another, you might find a café serving rich coffee and a flawless shortbread, or a shop brimming with woollen goods and artisan crafts.

For a more immersive look at Edinburgh’s layered history, The Real Mary King’s Close offers guided tours beneath the streets. These underground passages tell the story of a city built on top of itself, weaving personal tales of the lives once lived in the shadow of the Old Tolbooth.

Practicalities

Edinburgh Waverley station is a mere ten-minute walk away, making the Royal Mile an easy stop for day-trippers and longer stays alike. The area is densely packed with places to eat, drink, and explore, whether you’re after a plate of haggis or just a pint in a cosy pub. As evening falls, the soft glow of streetlights lends the surroundings a different kind of charm, highlighting the intricate stonework of the buildings and casting long, quiet shadows.