Kanpai

Inside the room is calm and spare. A long sushi counter faced in stone and brick runs beneath rows of conical pendant lights, with teal stools along its front and dark shelves of teapots, bowls and sake bottles behind. Wooden tables are laid with chopsticks and small dishes; booths sit beside shoji screens, and in one corner a mural of cherry blossom and falling petals covers the wall. An arched alcove holds a table for two and a vase of tulips. Sit at the counter to watch the chefs at work, and start with something from the sake list.