Cairn O'Mohr Fruit Wine

Ron and Judith Gillies started Cairn o' Mohr in 1987 with, in their own words, a bottle, a book and a stick. Nearly four decades on, their farm at East Inchmichael near Errol is Scotland's oldest winery, though there isn't a grape in sight. The wines here are made from what the Carse of Gowrie grows in abundance: strawberries, raspberries, brambles, elderberries and even oak leaves, fermented in the traditional way and matured for at least a year. The name, said out loud, tells you how seriously they take themselves.

Cider followed in 2012, made with apples from the Carse's old Victorian orchards, which once shipped fruit to London by boat from Port Allen on the Tay. The Gillies have been active in reviving those orchards, and they'll still buy apples from anyone local with a surplus. Their draft cider is called Pictish, named days before an ancient Pictish settlement was discovered beneath the winery itself. The site is a scatter of 140-year-old farm buildings and Ron's hand-carved wooden figures, with a well-stocked shop, tastings on offer and The Pickled Peacock café serving seasonal Scottish food.