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The deli counter at Valvona & Crolla on Elm Row, with cured meats, olives and pasta under the glass and shelves of Italian wine and oil up to the ceiling.
Edinburgh

Valvona & Crolla

Scotland's oldest delicatessen and Italian wine merchant, on Elm Row at the top of Leith Walk since 1934, with a caffè bar and restaurant inside.

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Welcome

Valvona & Crolla has been feeding Edinburgh since 1934, and stepping through the door on Elm Row still feels like walking into Italy.

Scotland's oldest delicatessen and Italian wine merchant began by serving the city's young Italian community, and it's still an independent family business today. The long counter is laid with cured meats, cheeses, olives and fresh pasta, and the shelves climb to the ceiling with Italian wine, olive oil, coffee, biscuits and panettone, alongside Scottish whisky and gin, cookery books and kitchenware. The Caffè Bar and Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and supper, with tastings and cookery demonstrations through the year, and booking ahead is a good idea. Each August the gift room and bookshop become a 70-seat theatre for the Edinburgh Festival Fringe. It's open Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm, at the top of Leith Walk and about ten minutes' walk from Waverley station, with buses and trams stopping right outside.

Close byEdinburgh Street Food1 min by roadSee itEdinburgh Street Food
Before you go

A deli, a wine shop and a caffè bar under one roof.

Book ahead for the caffè.

Where
19 Elm Row, Edinburgh, EH7 4AA, at the top of Leith Walk.
Open
Monday to Saturday, 9am to 6pm; the shop and the caffè keep the same hours.
Caffè Bar
Breakfast, lunch and supper; booking in advance is recommended.
Getting there
Ten minutes on foot from Waverley station and the Picardy Place tram stop; buses and trams stop on Elm Row.
Parking
A little on Elm Row; St James Quarter car park is a few minutes' walk.
Phone
0131 556 6066

Opening hours

Their website
Monday
9am–6pm
Tuesday
9am–6pm
Wednesday
9am–6pm
Thursday
9am–6pm
Friday
9am–6pm
Saturday
9am–6pm
Sunday
Closed

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Where it is

On Elm Row at the top of Leith Walk, EH7 4AA.

Close byThe top of Leith Walk and Calton Hill.
  1. Sliding ladder against floor-to-ceiling bookshelves beside a window overlooking a church spireTopping & CompanyA family-run bookshop of more than 70,000 books in a former bank on Blenheim Place, open every day until nine.Under a mile 1 min by road
  2. Edinburgh PlayhouseEdinburgh PlayhouseA giant picture palace of 1929 at the top of Leith Walk, modelled on New York's Roxy, saved from demolition and a theatre since 1980.Under a mile 1 min by road
  3. The Cheese Gallery at The Big Cheese on Broughton Street: glass cabinets of cut wedges and whole wheels of cheese, each with its label.The Big CheeseA cheese shop on Broughton Street, opened in 2026, with more than 50 cheeses from Scotland, the rest of the UK and Europe, cut to order.Under a mile 2 min by road
  4. Cushioned window seat between crowded bookshelves in a wood-panelled libraryMcNaughtan's Bookshop & GalleryScotland's oldest second-hand and antiquarian bookshop, open since 1957 below Haddington Place at the top of Leith Walk.Under a mile 2 min by road
  5. Bay window of a bookshop, potted plants and coloured fairy lights outsideTypewronger BooksA basement bookshop on Haddington Place that is also Scotland's only typewriter repair shop, with more than a hundred machines.Under a mile 2 min by road
  6. Barista pulling espresso shots on a chrome machine with stacked cups nearbyAnte CaféA coffee shop and bakery below Spry wine bar on Haddington Place, at the top of Leith Walk, with bakes made the same day.Under a mile 2 min by road
  7. Pearl necklaces with charm beads coiled on a silver trayThe Cookbook ShopScotland's only bookshop given over to cookbooks, down a few steps on Haddington Place at the top of Leith Walk, run by Martyn and Liz Bryson.Under a mile 3 min by road
  8. Calton HillCalton HillA volcanic hill beyond the east end of Princes Street, crowned with monuments and with panoramic views over Edinburgh to the Firth of Forth.1 mile 5 min by road
Directions
Global News shopfront offering luggage storage, Payzone, mobile top-ups and a cash machineShoppingLate Night Book ShoppingA step away
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Stay nearby

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