LYLA

It's a Michelin-starred restaurant in a Georgian townhouse on Royal Terrace, below Calton Hill, and its cooking is all about the sea, with fish and sustainably caught shellfish from the Scottish islands and further afield, alongside organic meat and vegetables from farms around the UK. Dinner begins upstairs, with views over the Firth of Forth, a glass of Champagne or an aperitif and snacks plated by the chefs at a central counter. Then you go down to the dining room for a ten-course tasting menu, with the open kitchen in full view, so give yourself about three and a half hours. Lunch, from Friday to Sunday, is a shorter menu of five or seven courses. Tables seat up to four, the kitchen can't cook vegetarian or vegan menus, and children under five can't be seated. There are four bedrooms upstairs if you'd rather not go home at all.