A weekend exploring Royal Deeside - a local’s guide

Hello, I’m Alice Nicol, I oversee the recreation side of the business, which includes: the café, Potarch lodge, cottages, fishing and the private use venue, Ballogie House. I work in partnership with two of my sisters. We practice integrated land management, weaving together farmland, forest and river. It’s early days on our journey, the business is in transition to the next generation, which is both exciting and challenging, getting the balance right between respecting cultural heritage whilst embracing change.

How long have you lived in Ballogie, Aberdeenshire, and what brought you here? 

I was born in Aberdeen and grew up on Ballogie’s Home Farm. After working in London for roughly 10 years, I moved back with my partner in 2020 to take on the new chapter of the business. The opportunity to work with family was a big draw, as well as finding meaningful work in a beautiful part of the world. I’m based by the Potarch Bridge - one of the most picturesque spots on the Dee.

Can you share with us what your ideal weekend looks like in Aberdeenshire?

DAY 1 

Our weekends revolve around food, coffee and nature. We’ll usually spend the first day of the weekend winding down from a busy week. We’re lucky that there are local forest trails right on our doorstep. Along the Craigmore Cairn loop in Potarch woodlands, you can listen to the birds and sometimes the deer around dawn or dusk. The Deeside Way, a foot and cycle path which runs from Aberdeen to Ballater, passes right by Potarch (which makes the café a great pitstop for dog walkers and cyclists!). We’ll brew a coffee-to-go at home and head out for a walk or bike ride with our collie, Ben. 

DAY 2 

If we go further afield, we like to head out to other cafés. We’ll normally pick up a takeaway coffee from Tarmachan in Crathie, and hike up to the pyramid vantage point on the Balmoral Cairns walk. The views up and down the glen and down to the River Dee below are beautiful. Post-walk, we’d head back to Tarmachan or the Highlander’s Bakehouse for lunch, before heading home for a dip in the River Dee, and then lighting and huddling up around our wood-burning stove with a cuppa. Anna and Matt, of @aberdeenshirewalks, run a great account and blog of wonderful walks around Aberdeenshire to give you plenty of inspiration.

What is it that you particularly enjoy about living and working in this part of Scotland? 

The Ballogie area is a place of stunning natural beauty that I am lucky to call home. Living at Potarch, we have become accustomed to the birdlife here, from the local herons, resident buzzard and kite, to the returning pair of oystercatchers, ducks, house martins and migrating geese. Last year we even saw an osprey dive into the river by the bridge, and an eagle flew over the café. There’s diversity in the work I do, and travelling between Ballogie House, the holiday cottages and the café, the commute is incredibly beautiful as they’re all tucked away in different areas of the countryside. 

What advice would you give to anyone looking to explore the area? 

Aberdeenshire is full of rolling hills - you don’t need to scale a Munro to enjoy that glorious land-to-sky ratio and be reminded how awesome the planet is. Even on a gentle walk on a clear day from Tom’s Cairn, you experience uninterrupted 360° views and can see to the Bennachie hills, (highest point 529m) Clachnaben (589m), Morven (872m) and Lochnagar (1,156m). There’s variety and you can do as much or as little as you want: gather with friends and family, use it as a base to explore and get out into the wild, or retreat to nature, hunker down and get cosy by a woodburning stove. It’s on my list to follow the River Dee up to its source and climb to its spring on the Braeriach plateau (1,220m). 

Can you give us a rundown on what Aberdeenshire is like as the seasons change, and in your opinion when is the best time to visit? 

Each season has its moments. Winter frosts transform the landscape into a shimmering, white wonderland. There are cold crisp days with bright blue skies and darker nights mean gorgeous starry skies. Spring arrives and the area becomes lush and green. Wildflowers take it in turns to emerge through the summer months, and I always look forward to the warm, autumnal hues and watching the larch trees turn orange. The Balnacraig hill is a beautiful location to witness seasonal change. You can watch the ever-changing light on the hills, the mist creep down the glen and the skies light up with fiery sunsets (East Balnacraig cottage sleeps six). Work is busy for us during the spring/summer, so we like to take advantage of the quieter seasons.

Plan Your Weekend with Alice’s Top Picks

Eat ~ Daytime. 

Potarch Café: Our own hidden gem. The wild venison burger (sourced from our forests) is a must, or the smashed peas on toast (ve), (we recommend adding a poached egg and whipped feta.) Yum. 
Love Laura Lane at No. 27: Stew ‘n’ Drew’s ice cream, an indulgent hot chocolate menu and waffles. She makes a mean wedding cake too. Open weekends. 
Deeside Deli: A lovely little deli in Ballater. Hazelnut Patisserie Their pastries are a work of art. Check seasonal opening times. 

Eat ~ Evening. 

Lily’s Dough: Wood-fired pizza from a horse box. They have regular takeaway slots in Torphins and Banchory, available to order online. 
Fish Shop Ballater: Sustainably sourced fish at this restaurant and fishmongers. 
Echt Tandoori: We love a curry night. It’s a bit further away but it’s our favourite so far. 
The Clunie Dining Room at The Fife Arms: If you’ve got something to celebrate, go all-out on the tasting menu.

Drink. 

Potarch Café: We use Allpress Espresso coffee as our house blend, and like to bring in guest roasts on espresso and filter. Cairngorm Coffee Roasters are a favourite. Strong Water Co.: Good selection of local producers and ideal for when you’re looking for something different. They offer occasional instore and virtual wine tasting events. 
Lost Loch Spirits: Craft distilling in Deeside. Tour, tasting and spirit school experiences available to book. 
Elsa’s Cocktail Bar: Follow the Dee upstream to The Fife Arms, the drive out itself is worth the trip. 

Shop.

Fold: Design shop featuring local designers and makers, attached to the Barn. 
Deeside Antiques Emporium: Vintage shop in the old church in Kincardine O’Neil. Thistle & Clay Soap, haircare and skincare products handmade in Aboyne. 
Bark + Ride: For those bringing their old faithfuls on the adventure too.

Relax. 

Wild Swimming: After a bustling summer day working in the café, I find a dip in the Dee by Potarch Bridge is good for the soul. Join locals for a Christmas morning dip, or New Year’s Looney Dook (less relaxing, more invigorating…) 
Paddle Boarding When the river is low and has a gentle flow, you can paddle leisurely up and down stream. It’s a truly calming experience. 
Ballogie House: Jump in the hot tub and soak in the views over the expansive parkland. 
Fishing: Cast a line on the river by one of our wooden huts and enjoy a wood-fired BBQ. 

Explore/Walks. 

Dunnottar Castle: This ruined castle is epic. It sits mysteriously atop coastal cliffs with the wild North Sea below. 
Carnferg: Explore on foot, MTB or horseback. 
Burn O’Vat / Loch Kinnord: A reminder that our landscape was once covered in glaciers. There are walking routes for both big and little legs. 
Loch Muick / Lochnagar: If you only have time for one walk, this is the one we would do. Gorgeous anytime of the year (check it’s open!) Include Lochnagar if you want to add a bit of height! 
Linn O’ Dee: One of the Dee’s most picturesque tributaries: an old stone bridge, waterfalls and old pinewoods. 

Activities. 

Midstrath Equiworld and Highlands Unbridled: Riding lessons and treks, experience Ballogie’s epic beauty on horseback. 
Ride In Peace Adventures: Mountain bike coaching and guided rides. Try out Chutney and Relish bike trails in Balfour Forest, Birse. 
The Barn: We’re so lucky to have this multi-arts centre in Banchory: films, talks, art, music, stand-up comedy, workshops and markets. 
Crathes Castle: Something for all the family; castle, gardens and adventure playground. As the parent of a one year old, I imagine we’re going to start spending a lot of time here…

Alice’s Top Tips

Tip 1. 

Don’t pin your hopes on the weather. Scotland isn’t about that one guaranteed week of sunshine, it’s about falling for its landscape whether it’s bright sunshine, wet and wild, snow-topped peaks or moody, misty greys. Even on cold, dreich days raindrops have frozen on branches and the trees look like they are covered in mini glass baubles. Gorgeous. Embrace the weather and pack a wardrobe to match. 

Tip 2. 

Getting here - If you’re arriving from the south by car, you’ll skirt around the foothills on the dual carriageway. I love the point where you start to climb over the Cairn O’Mount (stop at the top and add a stone to the cairn), before dipping down into Deeside hidden on the other side. (In bad weather, the trip needs to be made via Stonehaven.) If you’ve got the time, and can work it into your trip, follow the Dee upstream to Braemar and return south via Glenshee, it’s incredibly atmospheric, though the road is a bit of a winding roller coaster in parts if your stomach can handle it. The train ride from Edinburgh to Stonehaven / Aberdeen is also picturesque. 

Tip 3. 

Keep an eye out for farmers markets. They’re a great opportunity to buy produce from local butchers, bakers, makers and entrepreneurs. The Aboyne farmers market is currently run by The Seedbox, a horticultural and outdoor therapy centre who have a base here in the Ballogie walled gardens.

words // Alice Nicol - photography // Simon Hird, Christian Watson & Jack Cairney