Discover the Nooks and Crannies of Aberdeeen and Shire

Getting There

AIRPORT

Aberdeen International Airport is only a 20-minute drive from Aberdeen City. It’s also well connected by regular buses, taking you direct to the city centre. Car hire, and an airport taxi rank, are also available. 

TRAIN

berdeen is well served by the railway network, with a station in the heart of the city. There are hourly trains from Glasgow and Edinburgh, while the East Coast Main Line connects it to English cities like Newcastle, York and London. 

BUS

ou can travel to Aberdeen by bus from most parts of the UK, via Citylink Coaches, Megabus or National Express. Once you’re here, First Bus have a comprehensive network of services around the city, while Stagecoach buses link Aberdeenshire’s towns and villages.

First, the city. When attention turns to urban Scotland, Glasgow and Edinburgh tend to swagger forwards into the spotlight, but that reckons without the magnetism of Aberdeen. The Granite City, so nicknamed for the glistening, locally quarried stone that defines much of its grandest architecture, is the country’s third largest city and a place very much of its own making. It remains one of the wealthier spots in the UK (it was once dubbed the oil capital of Europe), and historically owes as much to offshore bounty as it does to granite – although there’s far more to the city than its strategic North Sea location. 

Today’s Aberdeen is a place of street-art festivals, ontrend restaurants and high-class museums, with a glut of impressive buildings and the not inconsiderable presence of a vast and often stunning coastline on its doorstep. And so to the wild and timeless charms of the surrounding region. Aberdeenshire is full of fine, fertile countryside, bordered by the aforementioned scenic shoreline on one side and the rampant contours of the Cairngorms on the other. The presence within its borders of Royal Deeside, meanwhile – the riverthreaded, forest-swathed region that so captivated Queen Victoria – adds another alluring element. 

The Aberdeenshire map is a busy one, dotted with craggy castles, coastal villages, hulking hills, and a whole host of places worthy of your time. Whether you’re here on an outdoor mission, a city break, a family holiday or a cultural getaway, you’ll find somewhere that has one boot planted in the traditions of the past and the other fixed firmly in the present.

Walks, Nature & Wildlife 

With almost 2,500 square miles of prime Scottish land to call its own – including moorland, forests, no less than 30 Munros, and a glorious, cliff-edged, 165-mile coastline – Aberdeenshire has tough-as-rock outdoor credentials. Naturalists, hikers, bikers and water-sport nuts are all welcome.

Bullers of Buchan 

Each spring, the cliffs of this collapsed sea cave draw nesting colonies of razorbills, guillemots and – cue squeals of childlike delight – puffins. For walkers, however, it’s a fine place to head at any time of year, with the coves and crags of the coast a joy to explore on foot.

Fowlsheugh Nature Reserve 

This high-cliffed RSPB reserve plays home to the largest mainland seabird colony on the east coast, but there’s more to spot than kittiwakes, fulmars, guillemots et al. If your luck’s in, you might spy seals, dolphins and even minke whales. It’s a few miles south of Stonehaven.

Linn of Quoich Punchbowl

The Linn of Quoich ravine plays home to a remarkable natural feature in the form of a large, bowl-shaped cavity next to a narrow waterfall. The Quoich itself is a tributary of the Dee, and the Punchbowl can be incorporated into a rewarding river walk (not to be undertaken in spate). 

Hell’s Lum 

Coastal landmarks don’t come much more memorable than this partially collapsed sea cave, which can be climbed right into, down a grassy slope, as part of a walk around nearby Cullykhan Bay. 

Linn O’ Dee 

Formed where the Dee has to squeeze its way through a narrow rock gorge, the picturesque Linn O’ Dee has long been a favourite spot for an amble and a linger – Queen Victoria herself was known to be partial to picnicking here. 

Loch Muick 

An enjoyable walking circuit of nearly eight miles takes you right around this hill-ringed, birch-fringed loch, south of Braemar. Keep your eyes peeled for red squirrels and red deer, and you’ll also pass the Glas-allt Shiel hunting lodge built in the 1860s. 

Newburgh Seal Beach 

A mere 20-minute drive from Aberdeen brings you to the rolling dunes and pale sands of Newburgh Beach, where the River Ythan spills into the North Sea, and where a protected, 400-strong colony of seals – in all their streamlined, whiskered finery – can be admired from a distance. 

Balmoral Cairns 

Hike through the Queen’s garden – well, sort of – on a six-mile loop from the village of Crathie into the Balmoral Estate. The route passes various cairns erected as memorials to past members of the Royal Family, and the views across the Deeside region are special. 

Muir of Dinnet 

Made up of a patchwork of heathland, bog, woodland and lochs – not to mention the giant rock pothole known as ‘the Vat’ – this sprawling National Nature Reserve sits just inside the Cairngorms National Park. The wildlife is fantastic, with osprey and otters among the big-hitters. 

Glen Tanar 

Pine martens, red squirrels and, yes, golden eagles are among the wildlife draws at this sweeping 25,000-acre Royal Deeside estate. Walkers can tread their way up Scotland’s most easterly Munro, while salmon and trout fishers are also well catered for, with lessons for beginners.

Towns & Villages 

The city of Aberdeen (which trivia fans will tell you isn’t technically part of Aberdeenshire, due to having a separate council) might be the region’s cultural and demographic hub, but many of the towns and villages that dot the map have just as much to shout about.

Braemar 

Huddled among hills on the banks of the Dee, the village of Braemar has a chilly claim to fame – The Times recently described it as Britain’s highest and coldest parish – but there’s much to enjoy here, from its 17th century castle to the longstanding Braemar Gathering, a Highland games jamboree, which takes place here each September. 

Ballater 

The pretty Victorian settlement of Ballater sits a short distance from Balmoral Castle, and sprang (literally) to life thanks to the nearby ancient springs of Pannanich Wells. The village’s Old Royal Station, complete with Queen Victoria’s waiting room, was destroyed in a blaze in 2015, but has risen again, phoenix-like, thanks to an extensive restoration. 

Crovie 

Few coastal hamlets have quite such a connection to the sea as Crovie, on the north coast. Its houses are lined up on a ledge between the cliffs and the waves, and stand so close to the briny blue that their doorsteps are regularly washed by saltwater. Gardenstown Less than a mile from Crovie as the gull flies, Gardenstown is another spectacular coastal village on the north coast. Its residences are scattered across sandstone cliffs, its harbour dates back to the 1720s, and its streets draw in visitors with craft stores, galleries and more. 

Pennan 

Looking out across the wide seas of the Moray Firth, and reached via a narrow road that worms its way down the cliffside, is the seaside village of Pennan. It found fame after appearing on screen in the 1980s BAFTA-winning comedy classic Local Hero, directed by Bill Forsyth. 

Fittie 

There’s nowhere quite like Fittie. The atmospheric old fishing village – officially named Footdee – sits at the southern end of Aberdeen Beach, within walking distance of the city centre. Its neat stone cottages were the work of John Smith, the 19th century architect responsible for Balmoral Castle. 

Portsoy 

Home to the annual Scottish Traditional Boat Festival, the coastal village of Portsoy is a charming place to come at any time of year, with its winding streets and attractive harbour. Look out too for the local jewellery, made from a serpentinite stone known as ‘Portsoy marble’. 

Cullen 

The iconic, smoked-haddock soup known as Cullen Skink was created right here in the seaside village of the same name. Once you’ve devoured a bowl of the stuff, take time to wander Cullen’s brightly painted cottages and fabulous sandy beach.

Stonehaven 

The harbour town of Stonehaven lies just 15 miles south of Aberdeen and has grown over the centuries from a modest fishing village into a bona fide beach resort, complete with an Olympic-sized open-air pool, a lively cultural calendar, and some excellent seafood options. If it’s open, call in at the Tolbooth Museum, set in an old storehouse on the waterfront.

History 

Far-flung? Not a bit of it. Until some 8,500 years ago, northeast Scotland was still connected to continental Europe by way of Doggerland, a land bridge stretching across what is now the North Sea. Evidence of early hunter-gatherers still remains, and by the time of the Bronze Age – with water levels long since having risen – settlers were leaving behind cairns and stone circles. Later, the Picts and the Romans were both present here, as were Celtic monasteries.

The region witnessed clan warfare in the Middle Ages, and then later played a part in the Wars of Independence. Castles appeared in numbers. It also saw its fair share of religious conflict after the Reformation, although by 1600 it had three universities in place, two of them in the burgeoning settlement of Aberdeen, which began life as two separate burghs – Old and New Aberdeen. 

The city grew to become an important one, thriving on the back of the 19th century fishing and shipbuilding industries, and using local granite to create a series of imposing municipal buildings, a legacy that still stands today. An 1848 visit by Queen Victoria to the riverside lands west of Aberdeen, meanwhile, saw the emergence of the name Royal Deeside. In later decades, Aberdeen’s North Sea location saw oil, gas and renewable energies become the city’s leading industries, bringing considerable prosperity in their wake, despite the market decline of recent years.

Dunnottar Castle 

It’s hard to imagine today, but the dramatic crumbled masonry of Dunnottar Castle was once a stronghold that welcomed Mary Queen of Scots. Set on a grassy bluff high above the waves, it was originally built way back in the 9th century. The clifftop walk to reach it, from nearby Stonehaven, is a memorable one. 

Cullerlie Stone Circle 

Let’s step back into the fog of prehistory. Surrounded by farmland and low hills, this 4,000-year-old stone circle is believed to have been used as a cremation site, and still exudes a rare sense of atmosphere. The eight granite rocks around the outer edge enclose eight smaller cairns, each of which contains a cremation. 

Glas-allt-Shiel 

This old royal hunting lodge was built for Queen Victoria, who reportedly envisaged it as a refuge following the death of her husband Albert. It stands on the shores of Loch Muick, its bay windows and handsome gables looking out across the water. One of the adjacent outhouses is now an open bothy. 

New Slains Castle 

This ruined clifftop castle has been in situ for some 400 years, and in the 19th century found an admirer in the form of Dracula author Bram Stoker, who alluded to its moody remains in his work. Roofless, and ravaged by time, it’s still a special spot. 

Haddo House 

An elegant stately home found around 20 miles from Aberdeen, Haddo House still showcases the Palladian luxury of its heyday, with a large art collection and a prim terraced garden. It was designed back in 1732 by architect William Adam, then remodelled – to tremendous effect – in the 1880s. 

Rattray Head Lighthouse 

Standing off the North Sea cliffs between Peterhead and Fraserburgh is this simple but oh-so-sturdy lighthouse, built in 1895 from 20,000 cubic feet of granite blocks. During World War II it survived a machinegun attack and an attempted bombing, and its wave-bashed base, topped by a neat pale tower, remains a landmark along the coast. 

Castle Fraser 

‘Imposing’ is the first word to come to mind when you set eyes on the colossal, five-storey tower house of Castle Fraser, finished in 1636. Constructed to a Z-plan design – with one large central tower and two diagonally opposite smaller towers – the castle can still be toured, and is stuffed with art and ornaments. 

Corgarff Castle 

Standing behind a whitewashed, star-shaped perimeter wall in the Cairngorms National Park is this dramatically isolated medieval towerhouse. Its story is a layered one: originally a private residence, it later became an army base tasked with finding Jacobite supporters and whisky contrabandists. 

Craigievar Castle 

Did this rosy-pink, multi-turreted citadel serve as inspiration for Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle? That’s the claim, but regardless of its veracity, this towering castle remains a truly impressive visitor attraction, with rich collections of art, armour and weaponry. 

East Aquhorthies Stone Circle 

Northeast Scotland is the only place you’ll find recumbent stone circles – where a large monolith has been laid on its side, flanked by two upright stones – and this site is one of the finest of the lot. It’s thought to have been built some 4,000 years ago and, fascinatingly, some of the stones appear to have been selected for their reddish colour. 

Tomnaverie Stone Circle 

Another recumbent stone circle shrouded in speculation, this sacred spot is set in deep scenery, its stones arranged in a ring around a 4,500-year-old burial cairn. Intriguingly, despite its age, there’s evidence the site was used for burnings as recently as the 1600s.

Fyvie Castle 

A monumental fortress which also happens to be rife with tales of ghosts and skeletons, Fyvie Castle is a superb example of Scottish Baronial architecture, its grandeur extending to its art and antiquities, its glassroofed racquets court, and its lakedotted grounds. Robert the Bruce is among the many notable past guests. 

Braemar Castle 

Closed until April 2023 due to ongoing restoration work, this latest facelift marks a new chapter in the castle’s absorbing 400-year history. The Earl of Mar built its soaring battlements way back in 1628, and since then it’s spent time as everything from a garrison to a family home. 

Crathes Castle 

With its lofty turrets, rounded walls and neatly tended grounds, Crathes Castle is the very picture of a storybook castle. The sense of splendour continues in the labyrinthine interior, where oak panels and painted ceilings still conjure up a sense of noble life in the 16th century. The gardens are stunning, with yew hedges in place for more than 300 years. 

Crathie Kirkyard 

When Billy Connolly took on the role of Queen Victoria’s trusted confidant John Brown on screen, it shone fresh light onto this remarkable relationship between royal and servant. Brown himself was buried here at Crathie Kirkyard, next to a church still noted for its beautiful stained glass. 

Drum Castle 

This 700-year-old stronghold might not have the cloud-scraping height of some other Aberdeenshire castles, but its medieval square tower, solid mansion houses and intricately designed chapel make it a hugely rewarding place to visit. Come in summer to see its Garden of Historic Roses at its best. 

Kildrummy Castle 

Ruins don’t come much more evocative than those of Kildrummy Castle, which was once one of the largest and most commanding fortresses in the country. Visiting its 13th century remains today, which look out from a forested scarp, is the best way to bring to life its long and layered history. 

Edzell Castle 

As famed for its decorative walled garden as it is for its chunky sandstone ruins, Edzell Castle was created in the 1500s for the Lindsay family, who added the now-famous garden – a vision of neat hedgerows, sculpted panels and artfully crafted flowerbeds – in 1604. 

St Machar’s Cathedral 

The twin-towered, medieval bulk of St Machar’s is an ingrained part of the Old Aberdeen skyline. It originally dates back to the 12th century, and William Wallace’s left arm is said to be buried under one of its walls. Named in honour of a follower of St Columba, it’s still a functioning place of worship. 

Balmoral Castle 

Unless you happen to have blue blood, and/or several corgis in tow, you’ll likely be unable to wander around the Royal Family’s famous holiday home in the Highlands. However, the grounds, gardens, exhibitions and restaurant open up from April to early August for visitors. The estate has been owned by the royals since 1852. 

Peel of Lumphanan 

When you know what you’re looking at, the old earthworks of the Peel of Lumphanan – sometimes called the Peel Ring – make for an extraordinary sight. Its moat-surrounded mound dates back to the 13th century, and once held a wooden castle. Edward I, and even Macbeth, have been associated with the site.

Activities 

A region this varied naturally comes stuffed with different activities, whether you’re looking for a pursuit to get the pulse racing or something more sedentary (hello, distilleries). Here are eight ways to get the most from your time in Aberdeenshire, whatever the weather.

Royal Deeside Railway 

When this branch route was closed in 1966, it looked to be the end for a scenic line which had been used by the Royal Family – and many others – to make their way to Balmoral. But there’s life in the old rails yet. Now a heritage railway, it gives the chance to travel along part of the standardgauge track, in steam and dieselhauled engines. 

Royal Lochnagar Distillery Tour 

Traditions die hard at Royal Lochnagar, which sits at the foot of the Cairngorms within a whiskyfuelled stroll of Balmoral. In situ since the mid-1800s, the distillery is known to have been a hit with Prince Albert, and a tour lets you see the age-old methods still being used to produce its single malts. 

SUP at Rubislaw Quarry 

A former granite quarry – so well excavated that it’s said to be one of Europe’s largest manmade holes – provides the unlikely setting for these stand-up paddleboarding lessons in Aberdeen. The sessions are aimed at beginners, so it’s a top opportunity to discover why the sport has become such a fast-growing phenomenon. 

Huntly Falconry Centre 

Head northwest out of Aberdeen and you’ll eventually reach the village of Huntly, where this falconry centre has been flying owls, eagles and other raptors since 1991. It helped to supply birds for the Harry Potter films, and has daily displays between April and October. 

Wild Food

Stories Foraging Workshops Run by Leanne Townsend, a local social scientist with a passion for wild food (and wild booze), these periodic foraging workshops allow you to see the Aberdeenshire countryside with hungry eyes. 

Glen Tanar Horse Riding 

The 25,000-acre Glen Tanar estate is all scenic drama, with its rolling pine forests and flowing rivers, and as such makes for prime horse-riding territory. Options range from hourlong sessions to full-day rides into the hills to look out across the glen. Kids are also catered for in school holidays. 

Royal Aberdeen Golf Club 

Founded back in 1780 – making it one of the oldest on the planet – this classic links course has long drawn golfers in search of a challenge. It’s hosted both the Senior British Open (won by none other than Tom Watson) and the Walker Cup. 

Fettercairn Distillery Tour 

In the foothills of the mountains, midway between Aberdeen and Perth, you’ll find a distillery that has been doing its thing for close to 200 years. Its founder, Sir Alexander Ramsay, was one of those who campaigned to license Scotch whisky distillation – so if you’re after a dram with a genuine sense of history, you’re in the right place.

Art & Culture 

In addition to its drama-rich history, Aberdeenshire has a cultural legacy that spans from Romantic poet Lord Byron to internationally lauded ceramicist Jennifer Lee – via Annie Lennox, Emeli Sandé and The Shamen – hinting at the era-hopping assortment of art, ideas, and creativity on show in the region.

Aberdeen Art Gallery 

With works spanning seven centuries, the marble-lined Aberdeen Art Gallery – reopened in 2019 after four years of refurbishment – has been one of the city’s leading cultural institutions since it first opened its doors in the 1880s. You’ll find works by everyone from Paul Cézanne and Pieter Brueghel to Damien Hirst. 

The Dinnie Stones 

There was a time in the 19th century when local strongman Donald Dinnie was considered one of the finest sportsmen in the world, the BBC later relating that he won more than 11,000 competitions, from wrestling matches and weightlifting contests to sprints and high jumps. His most famous feat came in 1960, when he carried two stones weighing 330kg across the width of a bridge in Potarch, a village where the stones can still be found. 

Museum Of Scottish Lighthouses 

The first lighthouse on mainland Scotland, based in Fraserburgh and dating back to 1787, now sits next to a maritime museum telling the story of the country’s iconic sea beacons. Braemar Highland Games Centre If you’re not in Braemar when its famous Highland Games are in full flow, then this attraction is the next best thing, with an exhibition hall, gallery and archive, looking at the heritage and royal connections of the annual gathering. 

NuArt Street Art 

This Aberdeen street-art festival has evolved into one of the biggest and best in the UK, with international artists using the walls and buildings of central Aberdeen to create spectacular, and often large-scale, works of public art. You can enjoy the fruits of their labour year-round. 

Aberdeen Maritime Museum 

Oil and gas have had a huge part to play in Aberdeen’s story, and this harbourside attraction covers the topic in depth – complete with a replica oil-production platform – while also leading visitors through the fishing and shipping links of the past. 

The Gordon Highlanders Museum 

Winston Churchill famously called the Gordon Highlanders “the finest regiment in the world”, and this fivestar Aberdeen museum recounts the story of the legendary military unit – and the farmers, labourers, aristocrats and ghillies who made up its numbers – in full detail. 

The Tolbooth Museum 

Another brilliant Aberdeen museum – this one housed in the former city prison – the attraction takes an eye-opening, and sometimes skincrawling, look at the history of crime and punishment in the region. The old gaol cells, some of which held Jacobite rebels, are full of atmosphere. 

Peterhead Prison Museum 

It was as recently as 2013 that HM Peterhead Prison ceased operations, having spent 125 years solidifying a reputation as one of the toughest jails in the country. The buildings have since been turned into a museum that shows visitors the realities of day-today life for its inmates. 

Pitmedden Garden & Museum of Farming Life 

 You’ll find two attractions in one at this stunning Renaissance walled garden 15 miles north of Aberdeen. As well as no less than 30,000 bedding plants and some hugely impressive topiary, the site also plays home to the Museum of Farming Life, exploring the region’s agricultural past. 

Grampian Transport Museum 

The village of Alford, west of Aberdeen, is the setting for this award-winning transport museum, where the through-the-ages exhibits span everything from steam wagons and snowploughs to Morris Minors and electric Mitsubishis.

Family 

With castles, sea life and rolling hills – not to mention the cultural pull of Aberdeen itself – there’s plenty here to capture the imagination of young visitors, but the following nine family attractions deserve special mention.

Aden Country Park 

Junior explorers will be in clover at the 230-acre Aden Country Park, which has a Green Flag award to show for its handsome green spaces. Walking trails, sensory gardens, an ice cream kiosk, a picnic site and a dedicated children’s play area add up to somewhere your kids will be happy to linger. It’s also home to the Aberdeenshire Farming Museum. It’s in the countryside west of Peterhead. 

The Den & The Glen 

This two-part activity park sits a few miles outside Aberdeen. The Den is an all-weather soft-play centre with slides, a climbing tower and a giant ball canyon; The Glen is a 28-acre ‘world of make-believe’ complete with animals, play equipment and fairytale characters. 

Deeside Activity Park 

For adventurous kids, this Royal Deeside activity provider serves up real-life countryside thrills, from kart racing and quad biking to archery and target shooting. There’s also a restaurant and farm shop, selling Cairnton Aberdeen Angus beef, among much else. 

Aberdeen Science Centre 

Sitting pretty after a multi-million pound renovation, the city’s science centre is a huge draw for curiousminded kids. It’s split into six zones – including Space, Make It, Energy, and an area specifically for under-6s – and has more than 60 interactive exhibits, from stop-motion animation equipment to a DNA Disco. 

Stonehaven Open Air Pool 

This heated, open-air, Olympic-sized pool is well set up for kids of all ages, with play equipment, family sessions, and a paddling pool for under-8s. The water is kept at a temperature of 29C, and the on-site Splash Café provides sustenance for any hungry, armbandclad athletes. 

The Fairy Woods at Fedderate 

A short drive inland from both Fraserburgh and Peterhead, there’s a sprinkling of magic dust over this much-loved play area, set in sheltered woodland and dotted with hidden fairy doors. A treat for toddlers and upto age 12. 

Easter Anguston Farm 

A short way from Aberdeen, this community farm helps train adults with learning difficulties, but also gives the chance for kids to pick their own strawberries, explore a Stick Man activity trail, roam enchanted woodland, and meet animals ranging from alpacas to pigs. 

Doonies Farm 

Another family-friendly attraction close to the city, Doonies is one of only two farms in the country to be given Approved Conservation Farm Park status. It specialises in rare breeds, from sheep and cattle to chickens and horses, and sits near the clifftops south of Aberdeen. 

Forest Farm The Organic Dairy 

As fine a reason as any to break a car journey, this award-winning organic dairy farm sits just off the A96 that leads northwest out of Aberdeen. It has a herd of free-range cows and Scotland’s first ever milk vending machines, as well as doing its own brand of gelato.

Tàrmachan 

The little riverside village of Crathie sits huddled in the Cairngorms National Park, and if you’re passing this way you’d be mad to miss this cracking little café. Open since summer 2020, it’s centred on local produce (don’t miss the Balmoral venison sausage rolls) and artisan coffee. 

Milton Brasserie 

Occupying old farm steadings, in the Milton of Crathes complex close to Crathes Castle, this family-run brasserie caters ably for all appetites, whether you’re after a coffee and sandwich to go, tea and scones in the conservatory, or a local three-course slap-up with wine. 

Parx Café 

Set in a basement on Aberdeen’s leafy Rubislaw Terrace, this superb city café might detain you for some time. The breakfast and lunch menus are both full of well-above-par options (hot Wark Farm pie with roasted tattie salad and piccalilli kraut, anyone?), while the cakes and coffee defy resistance. 

The Coffee Apothecary 

This friendly Ellon café is aptly named, given the curative effects of its coffees, its home-bakes, and its oh-so-good local-produce dishes – think anything from brisket stovies to parsnip daal. Husband and wife team Jonny and Ali also run a sister Apothecary café, in a former post office in nearby Udny. 

Platform 22 

The Royal Deeside village of Torphins is the setting for this gem of a family business, which is part coffeehouse and part gallery. Come for the local artworks – stay for the speciality coffees and teas, and the home-baked chocolate brownies and marmalade loaf. 

Buchanan Bistro 

This alliterative Banchory restaurant describes its passion as ‘Honest Thoughtful Food’, which translates into warming dishes such as spiced root vegetable hotpot and Deeside venison casserole. The drinks menu showcases local gins and craft beers, and the venue itself is airy and attractive. What’s not to love? 

Ride Coffee House 

This Banchory café sits just yards away from the Deeside Way, pulling in plenty of hikers and bikers in need of a pick-me-up, but it’s more than just a pitstop. Think top-notch coffees, Nutella hot chocolates, pork and black pudding sausage rolls, and – if you’re really looking to fill up – peanut butter, banana and raspberry jam toasties. It also does its own chutneys. 

Highlanders Bakehouse 

Croissants, cheese scones, cinnamon swirls, butteries, granary cobs, olive focaccias: if that list quite rightly whets your appetite, steer a course for this superlative Crathie bakehouse, which also doubles as a café. 

Courie Courie Café 

Set among the lochans and forests of Cambus O’ May, close to Ballater, you’ll find this sourdough artisan bakery and wholefood café, selling goods that range from cakes, scones and speciality coffees to soaps, lavender and Deeside honey. 

Castleton Farm Shop & Café 

Based on a century-old family farm near Stonehaven, this recently expanded café and conservatory serves up quality homemade food using local produce (including the farm’s own award-winning strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries), as well as substantial main dishes. 

Coastal Cuppie 

It might be small, but this smart Pennan tea shack has a hefty reputation to match its glorious harbourside location. Generally open between March and October, it serves up cakes, scones, coffees, teas and more. 

Aunty Betty’s 

This Stonehaven institution specialises in sweet treats – and lots of them. As well as milkshakes, puddings and hot-filled doughnuts, you’ll also find a sugary cavalcade of different ice cream flavours, including bramble, cherry ripple and honeycomb. There’s even dog icecream to get tails wagging.

The Rothesay Rooms 

It was back in 2015 that Prince Charles established the Rothesay Rooms as a pop-up dining spot to help Ballater after flooding and fire, and the venue proved so popular that it’s since moved permanently to the village’s Old Royal Station. And little wonder. Head chef Ross Cochrane turns out exceptional Scottish dishes, from smoked mackerel with cucumber and lemon, to Hill of Gellen pheasant with rhubarb and wild garlic aioli. 

The Tippling House 

This subterranean, wood-panelled Aberdeen bar is chiefly known for its hand-crafted cocktails, but pairs its tipples with creative grazing and tasting menus that include the likes of falafel waffles, smoked haddock rarebit, and spiced venison and haggis savoury doughnuts. A cut above your average bar, then. 

Foodstory 

The on-trend name hints at the contemporary approach of this brilliant Aberdeen café, which has a veggie, plant-based menu that stretches from breakfast buns and granola pancakes to salad bowls, chilli and rice, and loaded nachos. But that’s just half the tale. The venture was founded through a Kickstarter campaign, and also runs events including reggae nights, yoga classes and craft workshops. 

Café 52 

One of a few places helping to breathe new life into The Green, a traditionally overlooked pocket of central Aberdeen, this restaurant serves stylish, inventive dishes in arty, stone-clad surroundings. Don’t miss Mrs B’s daily desserts, still made by the owner’s mum. 

Moonfish 

Michelin-recommended for four years and counting, this Aberdeen seafood restaurant is, to put it simply, one of the city’s top dining options. But don’t expect snootiness. The emphasis here is on casual dining and an unfussy atmosphere – and of course on the food itself, which is artfully presented and beautifully prepared. The real deal. 

Fife Arms Hotel 

You’d best arrive hungry at this fivestar boutique hotel in Braemar, set in a restored Cairngorm coaching inn. In addition to its spa and accommodation, it has five different food and drink venues, including public bar The Flying Stag, the upmarket Clunie Dining Room and – for those evenings that are stretching on – the low-lit Bertie’s Whisky Bar. 

The Boat Inn Aboyne 

With more than three centuries of history under its belt, this riverside Royal Deeside inn offers an enjoyably traditional experience, with log fires, a beer garden and a filling menu of locally sourced pub grub. It’s in Aboyne, on the edge of the Highlands. 

The Silver Darling Sat at the mouth of Aberdeen Harbour in the city’s Old Customs House, this seafood-focused restaurant matches a spectacular location with a regionally focused menu that features the likes of mussels, langoustines and oysters alongside meat and seasonal game dishes. 

The Creel Inn 

A few short miles south of Stonehaven, the old fishing village of Catterline sits on the cliffs overlooking the coast. It makes a memorable setting for The Creel Inn, a relaxed but stylish pub-restaurant with an emphasis on quality seafood dishes. 

The Bay Fish & Chips 

Fish and chips don’t come much better than at this legendary Stonehaven chipper, which has previously been named the best independent takeaway in the entire UK. Its cookedto-order haddock and scampi draws in peckish locals from miles around, and concerted efforts are made to keep the fish local and sustainable.

Shopping

Hidden Scotland Shop 

You’ve read the magazine, now browse the goods. Our very own shop sits in an old 17th century sawmill a few miles from Banchory in the riverside complex of Milton of Crathes, where you’ll also find Milton Brasserie (p 108) and Milton Art Gallery (below). Pay us a visit in-store to use our planning station for your future travels, or simply come to admire the products on sale, all created by brilliant, handselected Scottish makers. 

Milton Art Gallery 

Now 25 years old, this carefully curated gallery works with various well-reputed Scottish Contemporary artists, including Francis Boag, Kanita Sim, Kathleen Bremner, Paul Bartlett and Peter Goodfellow. Its permanent but changing collection features paintings, as well as sculpture, prints, ceramics and jewellery. It’s based in Milton of Crathes. 

My Beautiful Caravan 

An independent boutique in Stonehaven with a quirky, retro offering to match its quirky, retro name, My Beautiful Caravan fills its relatively modest dimensions with a lively cornucopia of cards, coasters, books, decorations and other colourful gifts. There’s plenty for kids, too. 

Juniper 

Sitting on Aberdeen’s Belmont Street for more than half a century, this family-run jewellers showcases a shimmering range of necklaces, brooches, earrings and bracelets – including many Scottish-made items – as well as all manner of other gifts and homewares.

PARK Shop 

This popular deli-cum-café knows the things that matter in life – good coffee, good pies, good cakes – and does them well. The deli selection, too, is small but strong. It’s based in Drumoak, just outside Banchory. 

Everlongart Studio & Gift Shop 

On the main street through Alford, close to the River Don, you’ll find a fabulous studio run by local artist Jodie Bews, who sells her own, intricately created paintings alongside works by some of the region’s best designers, artists, crafters and makers. Jodie’s own paintings specialise in Scottish wildlife. 

Braemar Chocolate Shop 

Very much doing what it says on the tin – and gaining a whole legion of admirers in the process – this award-winning store began life in Shetland and Orkney, before moving to Braemar in 2020. All its chocolates are handmade on the premises: highlights include Speyside whisky truffles, salted caramel pralines, and blueberry and vanilla truffles. 

Hammerton Store 

To call this princely Aberdeen outlet a mere food store and deli would be underselling it. Yes, the emphasis is on local organic fruit, veg, meats and baked goods (and what a set of temptations they provide), but owner Susan Watson also stocks books, art, wine, real ales and ceramics. 

Rosemount Market 

Open since mid-2021, this brilliant Rosemount Place shop describes itself as a ‘grocery, refill and lifestyle store’ and has sustainability at its core. As well as selling organic fruits, veg and bread, it refills seeds, rice, cereals and pasta. Beer, wine and baked goods also feature. 

Portsoy Ice Cream 

Born and bred in Portsoy, Alex Murray grew up working on a dairy farm, so there was an element of continuity when he opened this much-vaunted ice cream café in 2003. And as well as its multi-award-winning artisan ice creams and sorbets, it also has a topnotch shop selling fresh fruit and veg, locally baked goods, and more.

Accommodation

Tower O’Ess 

Standing in the epic, pine-thronged surrounds of Glen Tanar Estate, this tall, historical gatehouse has found fresh life as a luxury getaway. It still boasts sturdy masonry, and its original pulley system, but now also has features such as an outdoor hot tub, a super king-sized bed and a panoramic terrace. As special as it sounds. 

Glen Dye Cabins & Cottages 

These sublime holiday cottages – named among the 25 Best in the UK by The Times – are based on a private 15,000-acre estate south of Banchory, dominated by forest and moor. Accommodation options range from North Lodge, which has its own River Cabin, to The Sawmill, where you’ll sleep in a 1955 Airstream caravan. 

Queen’s Hut 

An exquisite Royal Deeside log cabin blending seamlessly with the Scots pine woodland around it, this hut was originally built for Queen Mary, wife of King George V. Now fully renovated, it has all manner of enticing features, including a freestanding copper tub with a loch view. 

Boutique Farm Bothies 

A trio of small but gorgeously furnished getaways on a working farm near Huntly, the bothies (namely The Sheep Shed, The Dairy at Denend, and Barley Bothy, all of which come with hot tubs) are made from wrinkly tin Scottish cabins filled with quirky décor, upcycled materials, and king size beds – with Hypnos mattresses, naturally. 

Tahuna Bothies 

Tucked close to the sea on the outskirts of Newburgh, these stylish wooden bothies all sleep four and have floor-to-ceiling windows. The joys of the coast are readily explored from the front door. Howe of Torbeg Five miles outside Ballater, this Cairngorms glamping site has four wooden pods and an off-grid shepherd’s hut. Perfect for an escape from the daily grind. 

Sweetheart Cottages 

Another Cairngorms bolthole, the charmingly named Sweetheart Cottage sleeps two, making it all the better for a romantic getaway. The adjacent Love Shack, complete with hot tub, is a further perk. Three inviting wooden retreats, the Sweet Donside Cabins, are on the same site. 

Gairnshiel Lodge 

This former Victorian hunting retreat in the Cairngorms has been stunningly remodelled as a design-conscious, exclusive-hire luxury lodge, with nine bedrooms, a sauna, a games room, a fully equipped kitchen, and more. The Fife Arms Hotel We’ve already raved about the dining and drinking options at this Braemar favourite, and the accommodation is well worth praising too, with 46 beautifully appointed rooms and suites. 

Douneside House 

A luxury hotel and health club on a Highlands estate near Tarland, the four-star gold-rated Douneside House offers traditional comforts and mod cons in a historical country house setting.