Dunnottar Castle on its headland south of Stonehaven, in soft evening light.
The guide

Aberdeenshire. Aberdeenshire guide

Clifftop castles, fishing villages under the braes and the Dee running down through the pinewoods.

A Hidden Scotland guideDunnottar Castle on its headland south of Stonehaven, in soft evening light.

The four parts of Aberdeenshire

A map of Aberdeenshire in relief, with its towns and villages and its four partsStonehavenFettercairnBanchoryAboyneInverurieHuntlyPeterheadFraserburghPortsoyBennachieClachnabenLoch of Strathbeg

First, the city. When attention turns to urban Scotland, Glasgow and Edinburgh tend to swagger forwards into the spotlight, but that reckons without the magnetism of Aberdeen. The Granite City, so nicknamed for the glistening, locally quarried stone that defines much of its grandest architecture, is the country’s third largest city and a place very much of its own making. It remains one of the wealthier spots in the UK (it was once dubbed the oil capital of Europe), and historically owes as much to offshore bounty as it does to granite – although there’s far more to the city than its strategic North Sea location.

Stonehaven, Fettercairn and Johnshaven

Stonehaven and the south

Stonehaven's harbour is lined with pubs and boats, with an Art Deco open-air pool on the seafront and a clifftop path south to Dunnottar Castle. Further on, seabirds pack the cliffs at Fowlsheugh and a burn pours straight into the sea at Crawton, while inland the farmland of the Mearns runs up to Fettercairn and its distillery.

Boats crowd a stone harbour in a small coastal town, pastel houses lining the water and a sandy beach beyond.A ruined castle standing on a rocky headland surrounded by the sea, fields stretching along the clifftop.A grassy headland with a small waterfall spilling into the sea, cliffs rising on either side.
Banchory, Crathes, Aboyne and Glen Tanar

Banchory and Deeside

The Dee runs down through birch and pine past Banchory, with Crathes Castle and its gardens, a heritage railway at Milton of Crathes and salmon leaping at the Falls of Feugh. Further west, Aboyne sits round its village green, the old pinewoods of Glen Tanar reach into the hills, and the Deeside Way follows the river all along.

A stone castle with turrets standing behind a hedge, an autumn-coloured tree beside the entrance.A heritage railway platform in Aberdeenshire, benches lining a cream-and-red station building beside the waiting train.A ring of standing stones sits in a field, seen from above.
Inverurie, Alford, Huntly and Ellon

Inverurie and castle country

The farmland north of the Dee is where the castles stand thickest: Craigievar in pink harl, Castle Fraser, Fyvie and the ruined palace of the Gordons at Huntly. Bennachie rises over Inverurie, stone circles crown the knolls, and Alford has a transport museum and a little narrow-gauge railway.

A pink turreted castle standing on a grassy slope, trees framing it on either side.The ruined tower and hall of Huntly Castle rising above mown grass.A pink turreted castle framed by overhanging oak branches, a picnic table set on the lawn.
Peterhead, Fraserburgh, Pennan and Portsoy

Fraserburgh and the north-east coast

The coast north of Aberdeen is all cliffs, dunes and fishing towns. The sea surges into the Bullers of Buchan, Slains Castle stands roofless above Cruden Bay, and a lighthouse rises off the empty sands at Rattray Head. Along the north shore, Pennan and Crovie huddle under the braes, gannets crowd Troup Head, and Portsoy keeps its old harbour.

White-harled cottages line the shore of a small Aberdeenshire village beneath green hillsides, seaweed-covered rocks exposed at low tide.A ruined castle on rugged sea cliffs in Aberdeenshire, farmland stretching inland.A tall white lighthouse stands offshore amid breaking waves off the Aberdeenshire coast, its reflection visible in the wet sand.
A ring of standing stones sits in a grassy field.
In their words
“Aberdeenshire is full of rolling hills - you don’t need to scale a Munro to enjoy that glorious land-to-sky ratio and be reminded how awesome the planet is.”

Alice Nicol
Part-owner of Ballogie Estate, by the Potarch Bridge on the Dee

Read it in A Weekend Exploring Royal Deeside, Issue 8

Best known for.

More about Aberdeenshire

Today’s Aberdeen is a place of street art festivals, on-trend restaurants and high-class museums, with a glut of impressive buildings and the not inconsiderable presence of a vast and often stunning coastline on its doorstep. And so to the wild and timeless charms of the surrounding region. Aberdeenshire is full of fine, fertile countryside, bordered by the aforementioned scenic shoreline on one side and the rampant contours of the Cairngorms on the other. The presence within its borders of Royal Deeside, meanwhile – the river-threaded, forest-swathed region that so captivated Queen Victoria – adds another alluring flavour.

The Aberdeenshire map is a busy one, dotted with craggy castles, coastal villages, hulking hills, and a whole host of places worthy of your time. Whether you’re here on an outdoor mission, a city break, a family holiday or a cultural getaway, you’ll find somewhere that has one boot planted in the traditions of the past and the other fixed firmly in the present.

Things you might not know.

Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock
Graeme is the writer and storyteller behind Scotland’s Stories, sharing Scotland’s traditional folklore and legends.

The Dinnie Stones, Banchory

Aberdeenshire strongman Donald Dinnie won thousands of sporting contests around the world, becoming known as “The Greatest Athlete of the 19th century.”

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Grassy dunes overlook a wide sandy beach with distant figures walking

Since 1845, St Cyrus Church has given dowries to the tallest, shortest, oldest and youngest brides each year as stipulated in the will of John Orr.

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Small boats moored in Stonehaven harbour beneath rows of white waterfront houses

Every Hogmanay, the people of Stonehaven celebrate with dozens of locals swinging fireballs down the main street before launching them into the harbour.

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Saltire flag flies above the Fife Arms Hotel's stepped gables

The coldest ever UK temperature of -27.2C was recorded at Braemar in 1982.

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A ruined castle standing above the sea on an Aberdeenshire clifftop, farmland stretching inland.

Bram Stoker gained inspiration for Dracula while staying in Cruden Bay. At the centre of the ruined New Slains Castle stands a unique octagonal room, just as described in the novel.

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Granite spires of Marischal College rise above Aberdeen's Broad Street

Aberdeen is known as the Granite City and Marischal College is the second-largest granite building in the world.

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The earliest surviving form of written Gaelic in Scotland is found within the 10th-century Book of Deer, most likely written at a religious community preceding Deer Abbey.

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Weathered standing stones in a circle overlooking fields and distant hills

Aberdeenshire is the only region that contains recumbent stone circles. They are unique in that one enormous stone, usually larger than the others, lies horizontally on the ground and is flanked by two pillars.

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Lit lamppost beside a cobbled bridge scattered with autumn leaves

The 13th century Brig of Balgownie is believed to be Scotland’s oldest bridge. It’s said to be cursed to fall the day that an only son on a horse which is an only foal crosses it.

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A drawing room at Haddo House, its ornate ceiling above portraits and blue chairs.

During World War II, Haddo House was used as a maternity hospital seeing 1259 “Haddo Babies” born there.

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A pink turreted castle framed by overhanging oak branches, lawns spreading either side.

Aberdeenshire is known as Castle Country, with more per acre than anywhere else in the British Isles.

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The Duke of Rothesay Highland Games Pavilion at Braemar, green timber under red roofs and a white clock tower.

The Highland Games are said to have originated in Braemar after King Malcolm III ordered men to race up Craig Choinnich in the 11th century so he could find the fastest messenger.

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A grand stone mansion with turreted corners standing behind a wide lawn.

The 2nd Earl of Fife was so obsessed with proving his ancient heritage that he stole the old grave effigy of Provost Douglas from Banff, fitted it to the back of his new mausoleum and declared it was the grave of Robert the Bruce.

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Stone pillars line the nave towards the altar under a timber roof

Legend says that the upper-left quarter of William Wallace is buried in the walls of St Machar’s Cathedral.

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Elvis Presley was Scottish or at least had Aberdeenshire roots with his ancestors emigrating to North Carolina from Lonmay in 1745.

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In the first flight across the North Sea in 1914, Tryggve Gran took off from Cruden Bay and landed in Norway four hours later. During the crossing, his monoplane suffered temporary engine failure which left him only 15 feet from crashing into the waves.

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