The Balmoral cairns walk: a day on foot from Crathie
A walk · Aberdeenshire

The Balmoral Cairns Walk – Albert's Pyramid and Tarmachan Café

5½ miles3 hoursa hilla loop

paid parkingdogs on a leadtoilets

Across the Dee from Crathie, in the wooded hills behind Balmoral Castle, stand the cairns Queen Victoria raised for her family.

The estate's cairns walk passes eight of them: one for the buying of the estate in 1852, six for her children's marriages, and a great granite pyramid for Prince Albert. The day starts at Crathie, about seven and a half miles west of Ballater and nine east of Braemar. It crosses the suspension bridge and climbs through the pines from cairn to cairn, with the pyramid as the high point and a view over Deeside. It's a full walk: the estate's map makes its cairns walk 9 km, about 5½ miles, with 280 metres of climbing. Then it's back down the hill to the Tarmachan Café at Crathie, a café among silver birches in an old quarry.

Where it starts

Start at the estate's car park by the A93 at Crathie: £6, cash or card at the machines.

Walk it nowDirections to the start

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Before you go

On the path

Twenty minutes at the top. On its own, about two hours from Crathie and back. A steep, rough path through the pines, very muddy after rain. For children, a steep last climb, and no bench at the top, only rocks to sit on. The map to carry is OS Explorer OL53, Lochnagar, Glen Muick & Glen Clova (1:25,000).

Good to know

Dogs on a lead from April to July, when birds nest on the ground. The path to the pyramid stays open all year, in August and September too, when the rest of the cairns walk is closed.

The walk

The walk starts from the Balmoral estate's car park at Crathie, beside the A93, where Aberdeenshire Council lists public toilets. Most of the estate's cairns were raised in Queen Victoria's reign, for family events, and this circuit climbs to eight of them.

A cone of rough stones, one of the cairns, beside a broad earth path through tall Scots pines.

The estate's own map makes its cairns walk 9 km (5½ miles) with 280 metres of climbing, and Scotland Off the Beaten Track allows about three hours. The paths aren't waymarked and are very muddy in places, and the phone signal is poor: wear boots and carry a map, food and drink.

An earth path running straight between tall pines, heather in flower along its edge.

Keep dogs on a lead: the estate asks for it, and the Scottish Outdoor Access Code asks for a short lead or close at heel from April to July, when birds nest on the ground. The estate shuts the full circuit in August and September, when only the path to Prince Albert's pyramid stays open.

The lichened granite corner of Prince Albert's pyramid, and beyond it the view over the pines to fields and hills.

If it rains

In steady rain the woodland paths turn to mud, the climb to the pyramid gets slippery and the views vanish in low cloud, so keep the cairns for a dry day. Crathie Kirk, where the Royal Family worship when at Balmoral, stands beside the car park and is open to visitors from April to October, Monday to Saturday 10am to 4pm (shut for lunch from 12.30 to 1pm) and Sunday 1 to 4pm. Royal Lochnagar Distillery is a short drive over the Balmoral Bridge and up Distillery Brae to its own car park. Then lunch at the Tarmachan.

Along the way

  1. About 45 min on foot

    The Purchase Cairn

    The way climbs steadily once over the river. A lane drops from the car park past the old kirkyard, where John Brown lies, to the suspension bridge of 1834, now for walkers only. Along the road, turn up Distillery Brae for Royal Lochnagar, right over a small bridge, then left up the private road past the cottages. Princess Helena's cairn is up a rough path on the left; Louise's sits on a rocky knoll. The Purchase Cairn, for the buying of Balmoral in 1852, is a short detour to the right.

  2. About 59 min on foot

    Prince Albert's Pyramid

    Prince Albert's Pyramid

    From there the path goes up and down between the cairns, then makes the day's steepest climb. A spur leads to Prince Leopold's cairn, straight above the castle, then a faint path on the right to Prince Arthur's and on through the pines to Princess Alice's. A steep path climbs to the pyramid on Creag an Lurachain, 442 metres up: dressed granite raised for Albert by his "broken hearted widow", as its inscription says, dated 21 August 1862, the year after he died. It looks out over the pines and along Deeside.

  3. About 34 min on foot

    The Tarmachan Café

    The Tarmachan Café

    Walk back down past Princess Beatrice's cairn of 1885, through a metal gate onto the road you came up. Over the bridge, take the lane straight up to the A93 by the Highlanders Bakehouse, then walk a short way east along the road, which has no pavement, to Quarry Studios. The Tarmachan is a café among silver birches in an old quarry: check its Instagram for the day's hours before you set out. The car park is about 600 metres back along the road.

After the walk

Coffee and cake, something to do with the rest of the day, and dinner, nearest the end of the walk first.

For dinner

Fish Shop Restaurant in Ballater, 11 minutes by road. A 40-cover seafood restaurant and fishmonger in the middle of Ballater, with day-boat fish and hand-dived shellfish, holding a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

Balmoral Arms in Ballater, 11 minutes by road. A traditional country inn in the centre of Ballater, formerly the Deeside Inn, with rooms, the 1852 brasserie and grill, and the Ghillies Bar for real ales.

Farquharson's Bar and Kitchen in Braemar, 13 minutes by road. Braemar's village pub, in an old grocer's shop, with a beer garden over the Clunie Water.

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