Traditional Edinburgh Tailor Stewart Christie & Co

In the world of high-end tailoring, where there’s artistry and know-how in every stitch and seam, heritage and experience matter. Both are found in abundance at Edinburgh’s Stewart Christie & Co, the oldest bespoke tailor in Scotland. Working with tartans, tweeds and traditional worsted fabrics, the firm has customer ledgers dating back to 1720 – the year Bonnie Prince Charlie was born – and more than three centuries later, its handmade garments are as prized as they have ever been. Coats, kilts, waistcoats, jackets, tartan trews, capes and estate tweeds are among its many specialities. 

The company has become a prime example of how to move with the times without bending to them – a tailoring firm whose belief in fit, formality and the timeless elegance of a well-cut suit has been steadfast over the centuries. It still counts the likes of the High Constables of Holyroodhouse, the Royal Company of Archers and the Moderators of the Church of Scotland as ongoing clients, as well as a long list of family estates and countless other customers, all with an evident eye for style.

‘What sets us apart is our on-premises tailoring service,’ says the firm’s creative director, Vixy Rae, who is also the author of The Secret Life of Tartan: How a Cloth Shaped a Nation. ‘Our staff are passionate about their work, both in the workroom and on the shop floor. We prioritise customer satisfaction, as it’s an intensely personal service.’ 

There can’t be many tailoring firms that can include Saoirse Ronan, Ewan McGregor and Sir Walter Scott among their advocates – although Sir Walter, the records show, is yet to settle his bill – and fewer still that have author Sir Alexander McCall Smith as an official supporter and investor. (‘There is nowhere quite like Stewart Christie & Co,’ he said when this news was made public in early 2024, coinciding with the launch of the firm’s first ladies’ bespoke tailoring studio. ‘It has been a vital part of the Scottish clothing and textile industry for a very long time.’) The company’s recent integration with the 175-year-old Glenlyon Tweed Mill – more of which later – is further proof of its commitment to doing things the right way. 

Vixy and her business partner, Daniel Fearn – both longstanding figures in the fashion industry – have now been running the firm for around a decade, paying meticulous attention to keeping its traditions alive. Their ownership is the latest chapter in the company’s long and distinguished story. When it was founded in the early 18th century, it operated under the name Marshall Aitken, which was changed in 1933 when the firm took on the collective expertise of tailors Messrs J Stewart & Sons (established in 1800) and Messrs Christie & Son (established in 1804), both of whom held royal warrants. 

The handcrafted, individualised component of the trade is still very much the firm’s raison d’être. At the company’s Edinburgh workshop, bespoke means just that: garments are measured, cut and sewn to the exact requirements of each customer, typically after three fittings – an approach that has historically been the pinnacle of classical tailoring. Made-to-measure (which differs from bespoke in that garments are machine-made) and off-the-peg items of clothing are also sold, but, as you would expect, no aspect of the business is less than high quality. 

This much is evident from its HQ in the capital’s New Town, where the words “Country Outfitters” and “Bespoke Tailors” are picked out in gold lettering on the front windows, where orbed brass chandeliers hang from the ceiling, and where an oak cabinet of premium single malts is tucked discreetly behind the main mirror in the gentleman’s fitting room (along with crystal tumblers, naturally). The whole place – vintage furnishings, tailor’s shears, silk accessories and all – is an embodiment of the best of Scottish craft and tradition. ‘Our store allows customers to witness the legacy that built the company,’ explains Daniel. 

And the cloth, of course, is as important as the cut. As well as the actual craftsmanship involved in creating the garments – which depends on a team headed up by master tailor and head cutter Terence McLelland, a fixture with the firm for more than a quarter of a century – a huge amount of thought and consideration goes into the textiles and fabrics the company uses.

This is where its partnership with the historic Glenlyon Tweed Mill comes in. Based in the Highland town of Aberfeldy, the traditional mill first spun raw fleece into yarn back in 1850 and has been producing warm, durable tweeds ever since. As of late 2024, the mill is now owned by the same parent company as Stewart Christie & Co. ‘Throughout our history, we’ve collaborated with various mills, and variety has always been a key attraction for us when it comes to cloth,’ says Vixy. ‘Over my career, I’ve gained valuable insights into the significance of weaving and its profound impact on Scotland. The acquisition felt like a natural progression. It’s crucial to preserve even the smallest aspects of the industry rather than allow them to fade away.’

This is where its partnership with the historic Glenlyon Tweed Mill comes in. Based in the Highland town of Aberfeldy, the traditional mill first spun raw fleece into yarn back in 1850 and has been producing warm, durable tweeds ever since. As of late 2024, the mill is now owned by the same parent company as Stewart Christie & Co. 

‘Throughout our history, we’ve collaborated with various mills, and variety has always been a key attraction for us when it comes to cloth,’ says Vixy. ‘Over my career, I’ve gained valuable insights into the significance of weaving and its profound impact on Scotland. The acquisition felt like a natural progression. It’s crucial to preserve even the smallest aspects of the industry rather than allow them to fade away.’ 

The integration with the mill, where older pedal looms have now been brought in to complement the existing powered looms, means the firm can work with classic designs and bespoke colours while also creating new tweeds. ‘Tailoring with your own tweeds offers a unique experience,’ she adds. ‘We relish the entire journey, from the sheep’s back to the customer’s back, and I believe our customers enjoy being part of that journey too.’ 

The mill has now been transformed into a welcoming, visitor-friendly space, showcasing exactly how its cloths and fabrics come into being. This openness is important to the ethos of Stewart Christie & Co. ‘The fast-paced modern world has made the clothing industry seem disconnected from us,’ says Vixy. ‘We believe in preserving the art of the craft, so we keep the looms clacking and customers inspired.’