The Nooks & Crannies of Edinburgh

Famously situated on an extinct volcano and now a UNESCO World Heritage site, Edinburgh is one of the most recognisable cities on the planet, attracting nearly four million visitors a year.

Scotland’s capital is a unique blend of history and architecture, from the medieval cobbled streets of the Old Town to the neo-classical buildings of the Georgian New Town, all infused with a strong and contemporary culture that has established the city as a leader in modern arts.

Edinburgh is a city that is as open to new ideas as it is traditional, and it’s not difficult to understand why so many visitors flock to the city from every corner of the globe.

STAY

Sharing some of Edinburgh’s unique accommodation choices to act as your base while exploring the city.

NEW TOWN

Constructed in the mid-18th century as the solution to the cramped living conditions of the Old Town in which disease and crime were rife, New Town is a masterpiece of urban planning, featuring impressive Georgian neoclassical buildings set spaciously along cobbled streets. Thanks to a commitment to preserving its character, a walk through the district is like stepping back in time. 

There’s no end of things to do, including enjoying panoramic views of the city from the summit of The Nelson Monument, exploring the innumerable exhibits at the free-to-visit National Portrait Gallery or taking a leisurely wander amid the exotic species of plants at the Royal Botanic Gardens.

See and do in New Town

CALTON HILL 

Lauded by Robert Louis Stevenson for its fine views of Edinburgh Castle and Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill soars beyond the eastern end of Princes Street and features an unusual assortment of monuments and buildings along its flanks. Styled as an Athenian acropolis, the unfinished National Monument may, historically, have been described as ‘Scotland’s Folly’, yet endures as a popular viewpoint, while climbing its giant steps is great fun.

TOPPING & COMPANY BOOKSTORE 

Opened in 2019, Topping & Company is an exciting new addition to Edinburgh’s literary scene. Situated in a grade-A listed former bank in Edinburgh’s Blenheim Place, this family run business offers customers the chance to browse over 70,000 books. Robert Topping learnt his trade at Waterstones and is a highly regarded bookseller who also has shops in Ely, Bath, Cambridgeshire and St Andrews. Open 9am to 8pm every day, you can expect rolling library ladders and beautifully handcrafted bookcases.

SCOTT MONUMENT 

Standing prominently on Princes Street, adjacent to Edinburgh Waverley Station, the Scott Monument is one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks, its symmetrical black spires exuding an ethereal Gothic beauty. Erected in memory of Sir Walter Scott, the acclaimed novelist, poet, and playwright, the memorial reaches an impressive height of 200 feet, making it the tallest monument to a writer in the world. 64 figures perched on the memorial represent characters from Scott’s novels, while the white marble effigy of the author himself contrasts sharply with the blackness of the stone. For many visitors, the achievement of climbing the 287 steps to the summit of the Scott Monument is matched by the breath-taking views of the city that can be enjoyed at the end of the strenuous, yet exhilarating, climb.

PRINCES STREET GARDENS 

Once the site of the infamous Nor’ Loch, the fetid manmade swamp into which the sewage of medieval Edinburgh flowed, Princes Street, with its 37 acres of urban parkland, marks the boundary between the Old Town and New Town. Whatever the season, Princes Street Gardens are renowned for their beauty and are a favourite for locals and visitors alike. The Ross Fountain, the most important monument in the park which featured in the Great Exhibition of 1862, is a popular rendezvous spot in summer, while winter heralds the arrival of the Christmas Market, The Edinburgh Eye, and a host of seasonal escapes, including an ice rink.

Eat and drink in New Town

Breakfast & Brunch 

CAFFE CENTRO 

A family-run restaurant dishing out authentic Italian cooking. 
centroedinburgh.co.uk 

URBAN ANGEL CAFE 

Offering tasty cooked breakfasts such as eggs benedict and french toast. 
urban-angel.co.uk 

LEO’S BEANERY 

Serving fresh, tasty, homely food. leosbeanery.co.uk 

Pitstops & Cafés 

ARTISAN ROAST 

Stylish café for coffee aficionados, serving fresh roast, single origin beans. 
artisanroast.co.uk 

DOOR 127 

Located within the trendy Eden Locke Hotel, this beautiful space brands themselves as a coffee destination & cultural hub, offering visitors freshly ground coffee and delicious food. lockeliving.com/eden-locke/eat 

WELLINGTON COFFEE 

This basement coffee shop, is the perfect escape from the bustle and strife of the shopping streets above. 

Restaurants & Bars 

PAUL KITCHING 

21212 A Michelin star restaurant that sits in a listed Georgian townhouse, commanding views to the Firth of Forth and beyond. 
21212restaurant.co.uk 

DISHOOM Rich and flavoursome Indian cuisine with a delicious range of cocktails. 
dishoom.com 

MAKI & RAMEN Dine in or takeaway, experience the delights of Japanese cuisine at affordable prices. 
makiramen.com

Wandering the narrow cobbled streets of Edinburgh’s Old Town is like being transported into the city’s medieval past, the imposing and forbidding shadow of the castle still bearing down from its rocky crag above. While the castle, home of the Scottish Crown Jewels, is a mustsee attraction that offers stunning views of Scotland’s capital, exploring the maze of streets, alleyways and courtyards is a delight in itself. 

Artisan shops, restaurants and bars, museums and, of course, fascinating bookshops are in abundance here, offering visitors the chance to unwind gradually as they wander freely through streets that have barely changed in centuries.

THE ROYAL MILE 

One of the most iconic and popular streets in the city, the Royal Mile connects Edinburgh Castle with the Palace of Holyroodhouse, the Queen’s official Scottish residence. Shaped by the retreat of an ice age some 325 million years ago, the district is of historical significance being nestled within the Old Town and packed with architectural gems, including Parliament Hall, The World’s End, and St Giles’ Cathedral. Made up of four interconnecting streets, the Royal Mile also features an intricate network of passageways (closes) that can conceal some delightful hidden secrets.

See and do in Old Town

THE SCOTSMAN STEPS 

The Scotsman Steps, built in 1899, mark the divide between Old Town and New Town Edinburgh. In 2011, artist Martin Creed was commissioned to rejuvenate them. He replaced each of the one hundred and four steps with marble from all over the world. As well as being a convenient shortcut for locals, the newly rejuvenated steps now attract tourists from around the world. 

DUNBAR’S CLOSE GARDENS 

Dunbar’s Close is named after the Scottish writer David Dunbar, who owned some tenements here. The close is home to a beautiful 17th century garden – one of the most interesting in Edinburgh. Despite being located in a tourist hotspot, you would be forgiven for missing it. Even so, if you manage to find it, it’s a great secluded spot to rest after a tiring walk through Edinburgh’s streets.

EDINBURGH CASTLE 

Built on top of an extinct volcano as a medieval stronghold, it’s been dominating Edinburgh’s skyline since the 12th century. The sheer impact of the castle’s presence will astound, as you approach it from the same direction would be attackers would have approached it in times gone by. Over a million visitors explore here every year which makes it Scotland’s most popular tourist attraction. Don’t let this put you off seeing the castle’s many attractions including St Margaret’s 12th century chapel, which is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh, it’s a small and austere chapel steeped in history. It’s also home to the honours of Scotland, the nation’s crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny.

WRITERS’ MUSEUM 

Scotland has produced some excellent writers over the years, and the three featured in this museum are famous all over the world. It contains rare books, portraits, and personal items relating to authors Robert Burns, Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. Highlights include Burn’s personal writing desk and Scott’s childhood rocking horse. Don’t miss the impressive Makars’ Court monument on your way in.

ADVOCATES CLOSE 

Advocates Close is an alley leading from Cockburn Street up to the Royal Mile. Its exit is opposite the beautiful St Giles Cathedral. Many date the close to 1544, but it may have existed before this. Closes were the preferred residency of the Scottish nobility up until the 19th century. One of these noblemen was Sir James Stewart, Lord Advocate of Scotland, and this is where its name comes from. Other prominent residents included William III’s and Queen Mary’s official painter John Scougall, and the Abbot of Holyrood House Bishop Bothwell. The popular bar ‘Devil’s Advocate’ can currently be found here.

UNDERGROUND VAULTS 

Edinburgh is a city with secrets. The Blair Street underground caverns are magnificent and breathtaking. Dating from the 18th century, this dark, damp underworld was initially utilised for commercial purposes but later was used by the poor and destitute.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF SCOTLAND 

Located just south of Edinburgh’s Old Town, adjacent to Greyfriars Kirk, the National Museum of Scotland fuses the antiquarian and cultural collections of the Museum of Scotland with the science, technology and natural history exhibits of the Royal Scottish Museum – a merger in 2006 that created a formidable array of thousands of curiosities to appeal to visitors of every age and background. 

Housed in two distinctive buildings that retain their own unique design and atmosphere, the National Museum of Scotland’s reach extends far beyond the borders of the country, featuring historical, cultural and geological exhibits from Ancient Egypt, East Asia and around the world. But there’s a distinctly Scottish flavour to many of the galleries, tracing the development of the country from its earliest days and reflecting its emergence as a scientific and cultural superpower in a rapidly changing world.

Eat and drink in Old Town

Breakfast & Brunch 

ROYAL MCGREGOR 

Inside the Royal McGregor’s wee walls, they have been serving up traditional Scottish scran for nearly 20 years. royalmcgregor.co.uk/food 

HULA JUICE BAR 

As well as serving a wide range of delicious fresh juices and made-to-order smoothies, Hula juice café is a great place to go for a healthy breakfast. hulajuicebar.co.uk 

EDINBURGH LARDER 

Renowned for great breakfast and lunch which are all made in house using locally sourced ingredients. edinburghlarder.co.uk Pitstops & Cafés 

EDINBURGH PRESS CLUB 

All day café, great for recharging with a coffee and cake, while people watching by the window. edinburghpressclub.coffee 

GORDON STREET COFFEE 

Conveniently near Waverly station. They roast their own coffee on the premises and serve accompanying sweet treats. gordonstcoffee.co.uk 

HIDEOUT CAFE 

A cosy hideout serving speciality coffee, tea, treats and brunch. hideoutcafe.co.uk Restaurants & Bars 

WORLD’S END PUB 

Traditional Scottish bar steeped in history with an extensive Scotch Whisky selection. scotlandspubsandbars.co.uk 

THE DEVIL’S ADVOCATE 

Bar and restaurant in an old Victorian pump house hidden away in Advocate’s Close. devilsadvocateedinburgh.co.uk 

TOLBOOTH TAVERN 

In a reputedly haunted 16th-century building, serving traditional pub food. tolboothedinburgh.co.uk

GRASSMARKET & VICTORIA ST

Snuggled in the heart of the city’s Old Town, Grassmarket is a bustling, vibrant and colourful district of Edinburgh. Originally the site of a marketplace for cattle, today Grassmarket is home to an array of specialist shops, bars and acclaimed restaurants. Famous for its eclectic, colourful buildings, Victoria Street makes an inspiring photo opportunity, while along the cobbled streets visitors can peruse everything from hats to liqueurs and antiques to Scottish fashions.

The history of the Grassmarket is somewhat darker and more varied than its modern, energetic atmosphere would suggest.

Famously one of the poorest parts of Edinburgh, synonymous with the disease and crime that riddled the Old Town throughout the Middle Ages, the Grassmarket also gained notoriety as the site of public executions, although later it became a favourite for establishing communities of immigrants from Ireland and Italy who moved to the city, lured by the promise of the lucrative trade.

Today, the Grassmarket oozes a continental culture akin to Brussels, Paris or the other great capital cities of Europe, with restaurants and cafés spilling onto the open streets – although the shadow of a gibbet, artistically marked on the Flodden Wall, serves as a timely reminder of the dark history of this exuberant district of Edinburgh’s Old Town.

See and do in the Grassmarket area

VICTORIA STREET 

Victoria Street is one of Edinburgh’s most recognisable and picturesque locations, its elegant curve graced by a series of colourful shop fronts, making it a favourite choice of filmmakers and photograph enthusiasts alike. Constructed between 1829 and 1834, Victoria Street was one of several major improvements to the Old Town, designed to improve access around the city; previously, the only way to access the Lawnmarket and Edinburgh Castle from the Grassmarket was via an awkward and steep passageway. 

The Old West Bow, which was demolished to make way for Victoria Street, was an eclectic mix of timber-framed houses – some of the oldest buildings in the city – many of which were so closely packed that for residents to shake hands through the windows was not unknown. 

By contrast, Thomas Hamilton’s new development – originally named Bow Street until the accession of Queen Victoria in 1837 – imitated the Old Flemish style of architecture: the imposing frontages, prominent arches and cobblestones leading to many Harry Potter fans noticing more than a passing resemblance to Diagon Alley. 

Today, Victoria Street draws the crowds, not only for its stunning visuals but for its assortment of independent shops. From artisan cheesemakers to oldfashioned booksellers and gift retailers to joke shops, every outlet is worthy of scrutiny for there’s sure to be something to captivate the imagination. 

Yet Victoria Street retains a sense of the past, with narrow medieval passageways interspersed between the dominant buildings, and a vibrant atmosphere that is reminiscent of the thoroughfare’s important history as a key route in the heart of Scotland’s capital.

ARMCHAIR BOOKS 

Armchair Books is a second-hand bookshop based at 72 and 74 West Port, just above the Grassmarket. Filled with all types of books crammed from floor to ceiling along the little corridors, it is easy to lose yourself as you browse through the maze of interesting old books. While you are there, be sure to look out for a collie named Struan, who is the shop mascot.

VENNEL STEPS 

The Vennel is a beautiful alleyway in Edinburgh’s Grassmarket area, directly across the road from the Fiddlers Arms pub. Count the steps as you walk up and on the 50th step turn around to be treated to one of the very best views Edinburgh can offer. Once at the top of the steps, you will see two historic defensive walls which enclosed the southern side of Edinburgh, the Flodden Wall and the Telfer Wall. For those interested the word vennel is an old Scottish word which is derived from the French word venelle, meaning ‘little street’, and is found in Scots texts from the fifteenth century onwards.

WILLIAM BURKE MUSEUM 

Museums come in all sizes and, with only one macabre exhibit, it’s difficult to dispute the William Burke Museum’s claim to be the smallest in the world. Burke – a 19th century body snatcher – was hanged and publicly dissected for his crimes; a section of his skin overlays the ornate calling card case that now features in The Cadies and Witchery Tours Shop on Victoria Street.

Breakfast & Brunch

PUMPKIN BROWN CAFE 

A health-food café serving raw glutenfree vegan food bursting with flavour. 

ZAZA’S COFFEE HOUSE 

Enjoy your morning coffee in a homely atmosphere while enjoying breathtaking views of Edinburgh Castle. 
zazascoffeehouse.com 

THE COFFEE MILL CAFE 

Cozy family-owned café serving soups, sandwiches & salads, plus an all-day breakfast in casual digs.

Pitstops & Cafés 

MAISON DE MOGGY 

Scotland’s first cat café offers a cosy, homely café experience where customers can relax in feline company. 
maisondemoggy.com 

OINK 

Serving delicious hog roast rolls (pulled pork as some people know it). 
oinkhogroast.co.uk 

THE HAGGIS BOX 

Serving traditional Scottish Haggis from the Grassmarket police box. 
instagram.com/thehaggisbox 

MARY’S MILK BAR 

Mary makes all the gelato and chocolate every morning, with the flavours changing each day and each season. 

Restaurants & Bars 

DRAGONFLY 

A laid-back cocktail bar where you can explore a carefully considered drinks list. 
dragonflycocktailbar.com 

BIDDY MULLIGANS 

Rustic Irish tavern with banquettes, booths and stripped wood floors, plus traditional live music. 
biddymulligans.co.uk 

THE BEEHIVE INN

Former coaching inn serving real ales and British pub food, with a beer garden looking up at the castle. 
belhavenpubs.co.uk

THE LAST DROP 

A traditional pub with a unique character and an eclectic range of real ales to accompany its hearty pub food.

STOCKBRIDGE

To the north of Edinburgh is where you will find Stockbridge, an affluent and vibrant district that retains a village feel that has, over time, been a favourite haunt of poets, writers, artists and musicians. Today, ambitious young professionals occupy the elegant Georgian and Victorian terraced homes that line the village streets, comfortably mingling with charming cafés and stylish gastropubs. 

For two centuries, Stockbridge has welcomed talented artisans, many of whom migrated to the village from afar, and today the tradition lingers in the specialist shops along Raeburn Place and at the weekly market, which also boasts some of the finest local and continental street food you’ll find anywhere! Although located only ten minutes from the Royal Mile, Stockbridge retains a palpable sense of village life – a distinctive Bohemian culture quite different from the capital city of which it is now part. 

The rippling currents of the Water of Leith that traverses the village, which powered the mills in the pre-Industrial Revolution, emphasise the rural nature of Stockbridge, especially when the visitor explores the riverside paths and cycle routes on a scenic interlude from Edinburgh’s tourist trails. 

The leafy slopes of Dean Village, with its eye-catching Victorian architecture and towering viaduct, and the open park of Inverleith also provide inspiration away from the city centre, while a wander under the giant greenhouse roofs of the Royal Botanic Gardens opens the imagination to an ecosystem that stretches far beyond the coastline of Scotland.

See and do in the Stockbridge area

STOCKBRIDGE COLONIES 

Located between the Water of Leith and Glenogle Road, the Stockbridge Colonies are a tribute to the power of cooperative societies to inspire and drive social change. A collection of eleven parallel cobbled terraced streets, featuring pretty cottage-style two storey houses that are now Grade B listed properties, the Stockbridge Colonies were constructed between 1861 and 1911 to provide families of skilled workers with affordable housing.

CIRCUS LANE 

There are lots of lanes and back wynds in Edinburgh so what’s different about this one? Well its just so picturesque with its cobbled street, hanging baskets and plant pots around the doors. If you find yourself in the Stockbridge area then you will find it behind the main bar-filled street called St Stephen Street. Another suggestion after taking in the beauty of Circus Lane and perhaps enjoying a bar meal on St Stephen’s Street is to travel on to Dean Village and along the Water of Leith Walkway.

DEAN VILLAGE 

If you’re visiting Edinburgh for the first or even the fiftieth time, the list of mustsee attractions is probably as long as your arm and it’s simply impossible to face a day without something to do. Edinburgh’s diminutive size might be perfect for exploring on foot but, in high season, the streets can get a little on the crowded side, so escaping to a peaceful spot is the ideal antidote to the tourist trail – and Dean Village is one location you just can’t miss. Only a five-minute walk from Princes Street, Dean Village is a strikingly beautiful sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of the city. Historically, the village was an industrial engine, housing at one time no fewer than 11 mills, powered by the strong currents of the Water of Leith. The legacy of its industrial heritage is evident during a gentle wander around the village: the mill stones and carved stone plaques of pies and bread. Set in a deep gorge through which the river flows, today Dean Village is a key part of Edinburgh’s World Heritage status, boasting a staggering array of architectural gems and offering some truly magical photo opportunities. Following the course of the Water of Leith provides impressive views of Thomas Telford’s Dean Bridge and the pseudo-Roman temple of St Bernard’s Well, which became popular with wealthy holidaymakers in the 18th century due to its water’s presumed healing properties. The red sandstone Well Court is among the most striking of the buildings in Dean Village. Commissioned in the 1880s to provide housing for respectable working men and their families after old tenements were cleared from the land, the building is a key part of Dean Village’s social history and an impressive sight perched on the bank of the river.

ROYAL BOTANIC GARDEN EDINBURGH 

The Royal Botanic Gardens in Edinburgh is one of the great botanical gardens of the world and only a short walk from Edinburgh City Centre. Their mission is to explore, conserve and explain the world of plants for a better future, and if you’re after some calm amongst the hustle and bustle of Edinburgh City Centre, then this is the place for you. 

Open all year the gardens offer 72 acres of beautiful gardens and landscapes. Make sure you check out the glasshouses which are home to over 2,400 plants from various countries, creating a magical and peaceful experience, they each have a different climate and house various exotic plants from around the world.

Eat and drink in Stockbridge

Breakfast & Brunch 

GOOD & PROPER DELI CO 

Serving bacon Rolls, gourmet sausage rolls, freshly made focaccia sandwiches, home baking, fresh salads and healthy smoothies. 
gandpdelico.co.uk 

ARTISAN ROAST 

Laid back atmosphere with great choice of breakfasts to accompany fresh-roast coffee. 
artisanroast.co.uk/stockbridge-cafe 

THE KILTED KITCHEN 

Boutique bistro offering a fantastic selection of Scottish dishes cooked to order. 
instagram.com/kilted_edin 

Pitstops & Cafés 

THE PANTRY 

Their brunches have become the talk of the town and The Sunday Times said the Eggs Benedict was ‘reason alone to come to Edinburgh’. 
thepantryedinburgh.co.uk 

THE PASTRY SECTION 

Their home baked cakes are baked fresh on-site, from carrot cakes to cinnamon buns, cookies and brownies. 
pastrysection.com 

STOCKBRIDGE KITCHEN 

Delicious cake shop, bakery and café. 
instagram.com/stockbridge.kitchen 

Restaurants & Bars 

NOVAPIZZA VEGETARIAN KITCHEN 

A cosy Italian restaurant with an entirely meat free menu have gained critical acclaim for their delicious Italian dishes. 
novapizza.co.uk 

BOSTON & HAWTHORNE 

The first curiosities & oddities style venue that brings a range of food and drinks like no other. 
facebook.com/BostonHawthorne 

THE SCRAN AND SCALLIE 

A gastro pub ideal for informal dining that promises to showcase great tasting Scottish food. 
scranandscallie.com

LEITH

Described by Time Out as one of the world’s coolest city neighbourhoods – thrashing popular global hotspots such as Miami, Dubai and Toronto – Leith has come a long way since Irvine Welsh’s bleak portrayal of an area polluted by poverty, drug-taking and hopelessness. 

In fact, Leith has undergone a remarkable transformation since Trainspotting hit the bookshelves in the early 1990s; today, it is home to the greatest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants in the country, while cultural festivals – the Edinburgh Mela and the Leith Festival, among others – are an annual feature of a lively arts scene. 

Leith is the standout neighbourhood in the whole of the city of Edinburgh, with a distinctive character that is unrivalled even by eternally popular suburbs of Morningside and Stockbridge. Its ethnically diverse population, including young and ambitious professionals, have shaped a community that is as eclectic as it is vivacious, a hive of energy and enthusiasm that spills on the streets from the almost unlimited restaurants, bars and delicatessens. 

Once a powerhouse in maritime trade and shipbuilding, Leith’s role as a port may have long since diminished, but its heritage is still tangible: the Royal Yacht Britannia, once a symbolic royal residence, is a must-see attraction, while the scenic waterfront offers spectacular views of Fife and beyond. It’s little more than a 20-minute bus ride from Edinburgh’s Old Town to the centre of Leith, yet the most rewarding way to reach the neighbourhood is to enjoy a gentle wander along the Water of Leith, the captivating footpath emerging in the upmarket district of the Shore, which is renowned for its contemporary bistros, fashionable bars and exquisite restaurants. Alternatively, the Leith Walk, a mile-long saunter through an unimaginable array of independent shops, connects the district with Princes Street; local rumour claims there’s little that can’t be found tucked away somewhere along this intriguing retail alley.

See and do in Leith 

ROYAL YACHT BRITANNIA 

Launched in 1953 from a Clydebank shipyard, the Britannia was a royal residence for Her Majesty The Queen for over forty years. During its years of service, it was used for all kinds of important royal events, including official state visits, banquets, receptions, and royal holidays. As well as the royal family, it’s impressive list of former residents include Sir Winston Churchill, Nelson Mandela and Frank Sinatra. It is now permanently berthed in Leith and is one of Scotland’s top visitor attractions. There is an informative audio tour that tells the illustrious story of the yacht whilst taking you around its five decks. Highlights of the tour include the royal apartments and engine room. Afterwards, you can relax in the royal tea room with a cup of tea and home-made scone. The yacht is also home to Fingal hotel and its twenty-three elegant cabins. 

LEITH BEER TOUR 

Head down to the Shore to take part in the Leith Taproom Tour, where you will hear the story of Leith’s transformation from port to Trainspotting inspiration and onto today’s thriving food, drink and arts scene. The walking tour explores Leith’s shore and historic brewing quarter, where you will have the opportunity to visit unique venues, some of which are only accessible through taking part in the tour. Sample the delights with award-winning Scottish beer from Leith’s breweries and beyond. 

SCOTTISH DESIGN EXCHANGE 

The Scottish Design Exchange exists to delight customers, reward artists and boost the local economy. This retail revolution is the ideal place for shopping for some of Scotland’s extraordinary range of beautiful art and design products all made in Scotland. Every penny goes directly to the hardworking local artists, designers and creators who make them. 

EXPLORE LEITH’S ICONIC WATERFRONT 

Once the most important port in Scotland, Leith’s halcyon days as a centre for shipping may have long faded, but the district’s popularity as a cultural hub is still infused by its maritime history. The Shore – the beautiful waterfront path that runs parallel to the Water of Leith as it slices its way through the neighbourhood – showcases some of the finest seafood restaurants in the country, a culinary reminder that Edinburgh’s marriage with the ocean is far from over. But Leith’s allure goes beyond the delicious seafood dishes, the artisan cafes, and the stylish bars that line the waterway. Leith is renowned for its eclectic assortment of independent shops, where an afternoon can be easily whiled away browsing ecofriendly gifts, Georgian antiques, rare books, or forgotten vinyl albums, amongst other treasures. At the Scottish Design Exchange, you can delve into a hoard of local talent, from jewellery and music to textiles and art. A favourite amongst locals, the walkway along the Water of Leith promises a rapid escape from the bustle of the city centre, offering shade under the leafy canopy as it winds its way peacefully through Leith, where walkers and cyclists can witness otters and herons in their natural habitat, while absorbing the tranquil riverside atmosphere

Eat and drink in Leith

Breakfast & Brunch 

OSTARA CAFE 

Traditional Scottish food made with seasonal, local produce. Their brunch options are the main focus for many – including fresh bagels, breakfast rolls, and kippers. ostaracafe.co.uk ROCKSALT CAFE A wide range of fresh food and all-day breakfasts available. 
instagram.com/rocksaltcafe_ edinburgh 

NOBLES 

Brunch, lunch, evening dining, crisp craft beers, exquisite wines and cocktails are served until late. 
noblesbarleith.co.uk 

Pitstops & Cafés 

MIMI’S BAKEHOUSE 

A cosy family-run bakery that is well known in the area for their delicious cakes. Also serving afternoon tea, lunch & coffee. 
mimisbakehouse.com 

RELISH LEITH 

A deli making delicious sandwiches, melts, salads, coffees and cakes. 
relishleith.business.site 

ALBY’S 

Big hot sandwiches in a neighbourhood hangout. 
albysleith.co.uk 

TOAST 

Offering a casual coffee, wine & food experience, Toast celebrates the pure enjoyment of eating & drinking with friends. 
toastleith.co.uk

MILK 

A destination for food that is nutritionally sound, seasonal and natural. 
cafemilk.co.uk

Restaurants & Bars 

THE LIONESS OF LEITH 

Its retro decorations, including a pinball machine and vintage posters, give the place a cosy ambience. 
thelionessofleith.co.uk 

TEUCHTER’S LANDING 

Located in the former waiting room for the steamboat ferry from Leith to Aberdeen, it overlooks the beautiful Water of Leith. They famously serve many of their dishes in a mug. teuchtersbar.co.uk 

RESTAURANT MARTIN WISHART 

Michelin-starred dining serving modern European cuisine using classical French techniques & the finest Scottish ingredients. 
restaurantmartinwishart.co.uk

WEST END

Situated on the western side of New Town, the West End is a delightful and bustling district of the city with a discernible Bohemian flair. Often referred to as ‘Edinburgh’s hidden gem’, the splendid maze of Georgian streets, with William Street and Stafford Street at its heart, is home to some of the finest independent retailers in the city, including fashion boutiques, antique shops, beauty salons and booksellers. 

Fine cuisine is high on the agenda here, from charming French patisseries to contemporary wine bars. Embark on a carefree wander along the Water of Leith in Dean Village and you’ll almost forget that you’re in the heart of one of Europe’s most popular city destinations. 

A product of the 18th-century planning masterpiece that propelled Edinburgh to the forefront of philosophical and scientific reasoning, the West End is a treasure trove of architectural sights. From the historic red sandstone hotel, formerly known as The Caledonian, to John Lamont’s exquisite Georgian townhouse in Charlotte Square, the district is packed with fine examples of the architecture that defined Edinburgh’s rebirth as a New Town free from the social problems that had plagued it for centuries. 

For visitors, however, there’s far more than just heritage to absorb in the West End. A stadium tour of Murrayfield, Edinburgh’s iconic rugby ground is a must for all fans of the sport – even for the English, whose own national side remains Scotland’s greatest adversary! Alternatively, a day can easily be passed exploring the thousand or more rare or endangered animals, for whom Edinburgh Zoo has been home for over a century – and, of course, the only giant pandas in the whole of the UK. With a staggering array of eateries on hand, award-winning retailers and an extensive assortment of contemporary bars and traditional pubs to while away the hours until late, there are few reasons why the West End shouldn’t be on your itinerary when you visit Edinburgh.

See and do in the West End

DOMINION CINEMA 

The Dominion Cinema, known as the ‘Dom’ locally, has been run by the Cameron family since its opening in 1938 to the present day. It still retains its original art deco décor, giving the space a unique atmosphere that is quite different from the usual multiplex experience. It is located in Edinburgh’s Morningside area. 

WILD WEST MORNINGSIDE 

Hidden down an alley in Edinburgh’s posh Morningside region, this strange Wild West façade is surely one of Edinburgh’s quirkiest attractions. It was built in the 1990s to promote a now defunct furniture store called ‘The Great American Indoors’. Designed by Michael Faulkner, the attention to detail is remarkable. You’ll feel like you’re in a western, with the standard saloon, jail and stables – but sadly there are no tumbleweeds in sight! 

ASHLEY TERRACE BOATHOUSE 

This iconic boat house on Edinburgh Union Canal is used as the base for Edinburgh’s Canal Society and where every Sunday visitors can hire out rowing boats to adventure along the beautiful canal. Edinburgh’s Canal Society was set up in 1986 to promote the canals’ survival and regeneration. The Ashley Terrace Boathouse used to be based at Meggetland but it was moved to its current site in Edinburgh near Lockhart Bridge in 1987. 

EDINBURGH ZOO 

Nestled on an 82-acre spot on the southern slopes of Corstorphine Hill, with impressive views over the city, Edinburgh Zoo is Scotland’s second most popular fee-charging attraction, enticing more than 600,000 visitors each year. For over a century, the zoo has promoted the conservation of endangered species – it was the first in the world to house and breed penguins – and, today, is home to over one thousand animals and 175 species including, uniquely in the UK, giant pandas and koalas. Following a recent £2.8m investment in a state-ofthe-art giraffe house, a herd of longnecked ruminants are scheduled to arrive in 2021. 

MURRAYFIELD STADIUM TOUR 

The BT Murrayfield Stadium, with a seating capacity of over 67,000, is Scotland’s largest stadium, one of the greatest stadia on Earth, and the spiritual home of Scottish rugby. Some of sport’s most magical moments have taken place at Murrayfield, so a guided tour is the perfect way for enthusiasts to explore unseen areas of the complex, including the tunnel, the Bill McLaren Press Gallery, and the national team’s changing room. A tour is also an educational experience, enabling visitors to learn about preparations for international fixtures, and offers the chance to see unforgettable memorabilia such as the Calcutta Cup.

Eat and drink in the West End

Breakfast & Brunch 

CAFE INK 

Coffee shop, brunch lovers & supporters of local artists serving fresh, seasonal food. 
instagram.com/cafeinkedin 

COATES CAFE 

Hand crafted slow bread, pastries and salads. Scrumptious cooked breakfasts & brunches. 
instagram.com/coatescafe 

NOMAD 

A great choice if you’re looking for a quick bite or cup of coffee. 

Pitstops & Cafés 

CHAPTER ONE 

A wide variety of vegan cakes and sandwiches and a range of plant-based milk coffees. 
chapterone.coffee 

GRAMS 

A wide selection of healthy hot and cold fast food. As well as raw, vegan, clean, dairy free, gluten free and refined sugar free cakes. 
gramsedinburgh.com 

THE CLUB SANDWICH 

Take away or sit in, with sandwiches, cakes and coffee available. 
the-club-sandwich.business.site 

Restaurants & Bars 

HEAD’S & TALES 

Creative gin cocktails shaken by mixologists in a bar with timber ceilings and smart armchairs. 
headsandtalesbar.com 

THE JOLLY BOTANIST 

An award wining gin bar with an old Victorian style interior. They have a food menu with a range of main meals, snacks & sharing platters. 
thejollybotanist.co.uk 

THE HUXLEY 

A homely retreat from the bustle of the busy city. 
thehuxley.co.uk

SOUTHSIDE

Southside – the districts of Bruntsfield and Morningside – is a relaxed and fashionable area popular with students as it is also home to the world-renowned University of Edinburgh. 

Chocolatiers, artisan bakeries and ethnic retailers dominate the shopping areas, along with a great choice of restaurants, bars and cafés – including a growing number of street vendors and Middle Eastern eateries. 

Throughout the year, Edinburgh’s world famous cultural heritage prospers in Southside, with a variety of live music, theatre and comedy events filling the stalls at numerous venues. From the classical strains of the Scottish Chamber Orchestra at The Queen’s Hall to upand-coming contemporary artists at Summerhall, Southside offers a musical landscape so varied that every taste is bound to be satisfied. 

With three theatres – The Royal Lyceum Theatre, the Traverse Theatre and the King’s Theatre – staging drama as varied as Shakespeare to panto, and arthouse and indie films screening at picture houses, there’s a real sense of Southside living at the cutting edge of cultural development. Southside’s diversity doesn’t end as the curtain falls on stage, however. 

The National Museum of Scotland is a captivating shrine to the natural world, ancient civilisations, science and technology, and the history of Scotland, making it one of the most celebrated museums of its type in Europe. 

In more favourable weather, the vast expanse of The Meadows, one of the city’s most celebrated parks, is the perfect location for a family picnic, some rejuvenating sport or simply a romantic interlude away from the tourist trails of the Old Town.

See and do in Southside

HOLYROOD PARK 

Holyrood Park is a very large park in the centre of Edinburgh. It was founded in 1541 by James V and has been an important part of Edinburgh life ever since. At the centre of the park is the extinct volcano Arthur’s Seat, whose peak is the highest point in the whole city. This provides possibly the best view of Edinburgh and the Lothian area you’ll find, so make sure you take a camera. The park contains a number of sites that are of great geological and archaeological interest. Archaeologists found tools on Arthur’s Seat that date to around 5,000 BC. There are also settlements in the park that date to the Iron and Bronze Ages. St Anthony’s Chapel, located next to the idyllic St Margaret’s Loch, dates to the medieval period. This loch, along with Dunsapie and Duddingston lochs, make perfect spots for a picnic. There are lots of routes of varying difficulty, so whatever your skill level you will be sure to find one that suits you. 

TILL’S BOOKSHOP 

Named after founders Rick and Ann Till, Till’s Bookshop has become something of an institution amongst Edinburgh’s book-loving public since opening its doors in 1986. Located in the south of the city, the shop is particularly popular with students. Fiction and non-fiction are both well represented, and the shop is very well organised. All books are on shelves, so there’s no need to hunt through massive piles of books as is sometimes the case with indies. There is a roaring fireplace at the back of the store where you can sit and read at your leisure. Alternatively, pop round to Cult Expresso around the corner.

THE MEADOWS 

Enjoy the fresh air or a picnic in the open grassland of the large public park, the Meadows with its tree-lined paths, tennis courts and recreational sports pitches. 

BURKE AND HARE MURDER DOLLS 

Burke and Hare were the infamous 19th century murderers who sold the corpses of their victims to an anatomy lecturer in exchange for cash. The murder dolls were discovered by a group of boys near ‘Arthur’s Seat’ in an Edinburgh park several years later. The meaning of the dolls was not clear until the theory emerged that they somehow represented the 17 victims of Burke and Hare. Eight of the dolls were bestowed to the National Museum of Scotland and remain there to this day. They are well worth seeing for those interested in 19th century history, despite their gruesome nature. 

JOHN KNOX HOUSE 

Since opening in 1853, this museum has been one of the biggest tourist destinations in Edinburgh. It is devoted to the Protestant reformer John Knox, who was long thought to have lived here. Although it’s now known that Knox was only here for a short period before his death, it is still a great place to learn about the Scottish Reformation and get a feel for what life was like in 16th century Scotland.

Eat and drink in Southside

Breakfast & Brunch 

LOUDONS 

A stylish modern café & artisan bakery with a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere. 
loudons.co.uk/newwaverley 

KILIMANJARO COFFEE 

A dog friendly café serving coffee with great breakfast. 

COFFEE HOUSE 

Hot drinks, breakfast and lunch plus a display of tasty cakes and pastries served in this industrial chic café. 
instagram.com/august_21cafe 

Pitstops & Cafés 

BLACK MEDICINE COFFEE SHOP 

A laid-back café offering a range of delicious hot drinks, treats and bagels. 
blackmed.co.uk 

101 BAKERY 

Delicious bakery serving tasty treats. 101bakery.com SPOON Quirky and mismatched to perfection this bistro offers fresh, wholesome, hearty food. 
spoonedinburgh.co.uk 

CASTELLO COFFEE 

Independent, speciality coffee shop also serving great breakfast. 
castellocoffee.co.uk

CULT ESPRESSO 

Serving some of the best coffees the world over, they made a little bit of room for teas & food of just as high quality. 

Restaurants & Bars 

DAMM27 

As well as being a great place to come for drinks with friends, this trendy Newington gastropub has some fantastic food. 
damm27.com 

HARAJUKU KITCHEN 

Fuses traditional family recipes that have been passed down for 3 generations, with innovative AA rosette level flair. harajukukitchen.co.uk 

56 NORTH 56 

North is a fashionable bar located near the University of Edinburgh. 
fiftysixnorth.co.uk