The Edges of Edinburgh

But the edges of Edinburgh — places fringed by the River Forth, or tucked below hills further inland — are well worth visiting, too. These liminal towns and villages prove that all the things that make Scotland stand out — unrivalled history, creative businesses, and breathtaking natural beauty — are thriving on the margins of the capital.

Take a leaf from the locals, and spread your wings (and means) beyond the city centre. The places in these pages have all been chosen for their accessibility by public transport, so you won’t even need a car. Enjoy exploring on the edge.

words - Laura Anne Brown

Burntisland

GETTING THERE:

A train from Edinburgh, crossing the Forth Bridge, takes approx 40 minutes.

Caught between coast and crag, Burntisland is a bustling Fife town known for its summer fair and sandy beach. It dates to the 12th century and became a royal burgh in 1541.

Today the high street has kept its shine. Full of indie and award-winning businesses, from quirky cafés and gift shops promoting local makers to a zero-waste grocery store, Burntisland’s town centre could well be one of the best in the east.

One of the town’s other hallmarks is the small hill that frames it like a theatre backdrop — the Binn. This extinct volcano, mirroring Arthur’s Seat directly across the water in Edinburgh, provides a quick walk that packs a punch.

From the 193-metre summit, you can see beyond the three Forth Bridges to the west, and out to Bass Rock, the Isle of May, and their lighthouses to the east. Look out for the buried Binnend village, a relic of the area’s industrial past, or the prehistoric cup-and-ring marked stone beneath the trees.

SEE & DO

The Binn

A volcanic crag that, after a steep but short ascent, offers wonderful views over the Forth from the bridges to Bass Rock.

Pettycur Bay

If the tide is low, enjoy the beach with the locals. Walk from Burntisland to Pettycur following the Fife Coastal Path.

High Street

Spend a few hours browsing, eating and drinking your way around the many independent businesses and eateries.

EAT & DRINK

Sunrise Bakehouse

Giant Edinburgh-trouncing cinnamon buns and sourdough loaves.

The Roasting Project

Cross the high street for a takeaway flat white at this coffee shop and roastery.

The Fix Fife

Creative toasties and sandwiches, and everything vegan if you want it.

Portobello

GETTING THERE:

It’s a 30-minute bus journey (various services) from Edinburgh city centre.

Ask someone from Edinburgh about childhood days at the seaside, and one 
of the first places that comes to mind will probably be Portobello.

A favourite for locals escaping city centre crowds, particularly during peak Festival and Hogmanay seasons, Portobello is both easy to get to and family-friendly.

Like many coastal corners of the city, Portobello grew on the back of industry. Clay beds were discovered in the 1700s, and soon brickworks and potteries — and a village for the workers — popped up from the profits. The town was made a burgh in 1833 and became even more popular in the Victorian era as a holiday destination.

You’ll find that atmosphere still stands today, with the promenade lively on blue-sky days in summer and winter alike.

SEE & DO

The promenade

It wouldn’t be Porty without a walk on the promenade, soaking up some vitamin sea. Spot the wild swimmers braving the waves.

Portobello Local Market

Every month Brighton Park fills with stalls spotlighting local makers of food, drink, gifts and crafts.

Figgate Park

A pocket of wildlife-filled greenery south-west of the promenade, this park is a family favourite and is cared for by local volunteers.

EAT & DRINK

Twelve Triangles

Start your day by the sea with some ridiculously delicious pastries.

Bross Bagels

‘Fill your hole’ at this Montreal-turned-Edinburgh favourite.

Prom Slice

Save that last fiver for a Civerinos slice as the sun sets behind Portobello beach.

Balerno

GETTING THERE:

40-minute bus from Edinburgh (the 44) or walk along the Water of Leith.

Fancy a day trip taste of Scottish village life? Balerno is just a short journey from Edinburgh, but feels lightyears away. Tucked below the northern contours of the Pentland Hills Regional Park, days here feel slow and simple.

Like Portobello, Balerno village expanded on the back of industry – paper and flax to be precise, with mills fuelled by nearby water sources.

The high street is compact but offers several good food and drink choices, ideal for relaxing after a hike in the Pentlands. And if you’ve got the energy to extend your adventure, follow the Water of Leith footpath back to Edinburgh.

The 19-kilometre path can be done or divided on foot or by bike, passing many attractions along the way. Leaving leafy Balerno, you’ll spot the colourful Colinton Tunnel, the Gallery of Modern Art, Stockbridge, photogenic Dean Village, and many more. This is a lovely way to see Edinburgh and its edges at a slower pace.

SEE & DO

Malleny Garden

A peaceful place to relax, surrounded by roses, lavender and centuries-old yew trees, cared for with love by the National Trust for Scotland.

Harlaw Reservoir

Make a day of it and head into the Pentland Hills, Edinburgh’s mini mountain range. Find longer routes linking more of the reservoirs on the WalkHighlands website.

EAT & DRINK

Carlyle’s Bar & Kitchen

A cosy, welcoming café serving soups, scones, and other sweet treats.

The Balerno Inn

Sleep comfortably and eat heartily at this hotel in the centre of town.

Balerno Farmers Market

A monthly market featuring local makers and tasty produce.

Queensferry

GETTING THERE:

20-minute train from Edinburgh to Dalmeny, then a short walk into South Queensferry. Then take the train over the Forth Bridge to North Queensferry.

Enjoy wandering the streets of the two towns that lie in the shadows of the iconic Forth Bridges. North and South Queensferry, so called because Saint Margaret established a sea crossing here for pilgrims in 1071, both merit a stop-off in their own right.

The standout attraction here is the trio of bridges which together tell the story of Scottish engineering. The red rail crossing, opened in 1890, was the world’s first major steel bridge and is now both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an iconic symbol of Scotland. Next to it is the road suspension bridge, built in the sixties, and the modern Queensferry Crossing.

If you’re here for the day, the best way to understand the significance of the Forth estuary to Scotland is on a boat trip. Cruises run regularly from spring to autumn, taking passengers beneath the bridges and around the many islands. You’ll discover centuries of history, from the remarkable Inchcolm Abbey to wartime defences, and spot some local wildlife too.

SEE & DO

Forth Bridges

Turning a street corner and spotting the iconic peaked girders of the rail bridge never gets old.

Maid of the Forth

See some of the Forth estuary’s fortified islands up close on a boat cruise, or spend a calm day at Inchcolm Abbey on a boat trip from South Queensferry.

Loony Dook

Brave bathers jump into the freezing waters of the Forth on New Year’s Day. A must if you’re spending Hogmanay in Edinburgh.

EAT & DRINK

Down the Hatch

The locals are in love with the poutine here for good reason.

The Little Bakery

The clue is not in the name in this case — the cakes are huge.

The Boat House

Stylish and delicious Scottish seafood served overlooking the Forth.

Musselburgh

GETTING THERE:

A 10-minute train ride or a 40-minute bus journey from Edinburgh, or cycle there on the John Muir Way.

Just over the council border from Edinburgh, Musselburgh is the biggest town in East Lothian and another easy day trip. This historic market town is cut in half by the River Esk, which flows past benches and under bridges through the town.

This tale of two halves continues in the activities you can do nearby. Musselburgh may be bustling, but it also boasts several tranquil spaces at its edges.

Visit Newhailes, a Palladian mansion and estate that gives you an insight into how the wealthy Dalrymple family lived in centuries past. Or head a short walk south through leafy streets to Inveresk village, a gem of Georgian villas, russet walls and secret gardens.

If you’re a sports fan, Musselburgh’s golf club is the oldest surviving course in the world (myth has it Mary, Queen of Scots called it her local). Or if horse racing is your thing, join the crowds at one of the regular fixtures at Musselburgh Racecourse.

SEE & DO

Inveresk Lodge Garden

A hidden gem, this National Trust for Scotland garden is a flower-filled corner of calm.

Newhailes Estate

A sprawling and perfectly-preserved 18th- century villa and gardens, home to the wealthy Dalrymple family. Book a tour in advance.

Fisherrow Harbour

Walk the walls of this traditional Scottish harbour and enjoy the views back out across the Forth and towards Fife.

EAT & DRINK

S. Luca of Musselburgh

A classic Scottish-Italian ice cream bar. You’ll want seconds.

Kaffeine

Fuel up with a big brunch and a large latte at this central café.

Mintfig

A small deli and gift shop stocking the best of Scotland’s larder, including grazing boxes perfect for a picnic.

Other spots to see

Want to explore more? Here are a handful more ideas on the outskirts of Edinburgh, all still accessible by public transport, bike or on foot.

Aberdour, Fife

A picture-perfect town with a 13th-century castle, good café and lovely beaches. Take the train from Edinburgh or continue your day trip along the Fife Coastal Path.

Cramond, Edinburgh West

A village popular with Edinburgh dwellers, walk the causeway to the island, or beneath the trees to one of the stately homes nearby. A 50-minute bus from the city centre.

Union Canal

Hire or bring bikes for the day, and you can follow the canal west out of Edinburgh and into lush countryside towards Linlithgow and the royal palace. Follow NCN Route 754.
Leith, North Edinburgh

Buzzing shore-side neighbourhood full of fancy restaurants, quirky shops and an air of edginess. Recently voted one of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods – and for good reason.

Dalkeith, Midlothian

Marvel at the sprawling grounds of Dalkeith Country Park, featuring a palace and orangery, then follow the River Esk back to brew! for a sweet snack.