Nàdair - Celebrating Scotland’s larder

“It’s a cliché about how good the produce is here in Scotland – but it’s a true one," says Alan Keery. “We do our best to flaunt it by keeping it as unadulterated as possible.” Nàdair serves an ever-changing five-course set menu that is “forage-focused, local and micro-seasonal”. The spot on Marchmont’s Roseneath Street is filled with natural light, and its minimal design in shades of white, sage and brown reflects nature’s inspiration, while shelves displaying Nàdair’s ferments, vinegars and cocktail infusions give an indication of things to come.

Nàdair’s close-knit group of suppliers is in daily communication with the team about what’s freshest in the sea and on the shore, and in field, hedgerow and forest. Castle Game, just outside Linlithgow, provides venison, Highland beef and mallard, and Fish Brothers provide scallops from Orkney and cod from Peterhead. “They effectively write our menu for us,” jokes Alan. “Ben, our forager, has probably the most influence over our menus. From seaweeds to berries, flowers, woodland shrubs and tree barks, there isn’t a dish on the menu without his work on it.”

Nàdair’s inventive offerings make these foraged ingredients sing: “Woodruff is a staple in our kitchen from savoury to sweet to cocktails. Our most used ingredient last year was sea truffleweed, which was a constant on the menu.” The seaweed was even used in a caramel to go with a chocolate and Jerusalem artichoke dessert.

“Wild garlic is a favourite ingredient to work with - not just for its flavour but it’s the first sign of Spring and warmer things ahead,” says Alan. One of Nàdair’s most popular dishes is roasted hogget rump with hogget belly and wild garlic croquettes, with a sharp mackerel and tomato condiment for balance. And for the veggies? The humble carrot is brined in whey and served with a labneh infused with meadowsweet, finished with a piquant pink peppercorn granola. Plus if you have a sweet tooth, you’re in for a treat: rhubarb poached in a cherry blossom syrup served with a yoghurt sorbet is on the menu. Spring perfection.

Nàdair’s drinks also make imaginative use of foraged ingredients: “Our pine martini is a favourite – and we’re currently working on a new martini infused with pepper dulse”, enthuses Alan. And for non-drinkers, there’s a zingy sea buckthorn soda on the menu and a delicious crab apple tonic.

What does “modern Scottish food” (to borrow Pam Brunton of Inver’s phrase from her new book Between Two Waters) mean to Alan and Sarah? “I think the bitter irony of Scottish food is that our cuisine has a worldwide lacklustre reputation, yet we’re spoilt with some of the best produce on the planet,” explains Alan. “To be modern Scottish, in my eyes, is to get away from the haggis bon- bons and deep-fried Mars Bar stereotypes and exhibit our beautiful ingredients in a way that can rival any other cuisine.” Nàdair is certainly leading the way in redefining Scottish food and showcasing the extent of our unique natural larder.

Carrot, labne, whey, wild garlic

I’ve a soft spot for this dish as we always serve it at the beginning of Spring and it’s a reminder of warmer days to come. It’s very important to not undercook the carrots or else you won’t extract their beautiful sweetness. Wild garlic grows in abundance in Scotland this time of year, but if you don’t fancy foraging your own, farmers markets or delicatessens are a good source.

Ingredients 

Serves 4 as a starter 

2 bunches baby rainbow carrots 
1 sprig thyme 
10g root ginger - sliced 
300g full fat yoghurt 
100g granola mix 
5g pink peppercorns 
Wild garlic leaves

Method 

Start by making the labneh the night before. Whisk a pinch of salt into the yoghurt. Strain the yoghurt into a colander lined with a J-cloth with a bowl underneath and leave in the fridge overnight. 

The following day, take the strained yoghurt out of the fridge and collect the whey from the bowl. Add the whey to a baking tray with the carrots, thyme, ginger and season with salt. Cover with tin foil and cook in a 180 degree oven until the carrots start to soften. 

Whilst the carrots are cooking, lightly crush the pink peppercorns and toast in a pan. Add the peppercorns to the granola and mix well. 

When the carrots are ready take them out of the oven and, with the heat of the baking tray, wilt the wild garlic leaves. Discard the ginger and thyme. 

To serve, place a generous dollop of the labneh in a bowl, arrange the carrots and wild garlic around and finally top with the granola.