A walk · Rothiemurchus

Loch an Eilein – Round the Island Castle in the Pines

3 miles1 to 1½ hoursflata loop

£5 parkingdogs on a leadtoilets

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Loch an Eilein lies in the old Caledonian pinewood of Rothiemurchus, just south of Aviemore, with the ruin of a castle on a small island close to its shore.

The path round it is level the whole way, under Scots pines that are in places more than three hundred years old, with the hills of the Cairngorms rising beyond the water. The castle, said to have been built for the Wolf of Badenoch and later a refuge from raiders on the Thieves' Road, keeps coming back into view between the trunks.

Say it

Lokh an AY-lin. The name is Gaelic for the loch of the island.

Where it starts

Start at the Rothiemurchus estate's attended car park at the north end of the loch, at the end of the Loch an Eilein road, which is signed from the B970 by Inverdruie.

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Before you go

Getting there

Parking is £2 a person or £5 a car, £15 for a minibus, at the time of writing; Friends of Rothiemurchus park free. The road down is shared with walkers and cyclists at up to 20mph, and its narrow bridge does not suit coaches, motorhomes or caravans. No bus runs to the loch. Stagecoach's 30 from Aviemore station towards Cairngorm stops on the B970 by the Rothiemurchus Centre at Inverdruie, where the estate's longer version of the walk starts (12.6 km there, round the loch and back): check the times.

On the path

An hour to an hour and a half's walking: a loop of about 5 km (just over 3 miles) round the loch. Low-level paths and tracks with no long or steep gradients; they can be muddy or icy, so wear sturdy footwear. For children, no long or steep climbs, and a castle on an island to look out for. The map to carry is OS Explorer OL57, Cairn Gorm & Aviemore (1:25,000); OS Landranger 36, Grantown & Aviemore (1:50,000) shows the country round it.

Good to know

All year, in daylight. The gallery at the car park has opened from early April to the end of October. Keep dogs at heel or on a short lead on the paths: ground-nesting birds live here, above all from April to August. There is an off-lead dog area at Loch an Eilein. Toilets by the Loch an Eilein Centre at the car park. No fires or barbecues: the National Park bans them from 1 April to 30 September, and the estate asks for none at any time.

The walk

The loop is waymarked from the Rothiemurchus estate's car park at the north end of the loch, and the estate's own map is under Find out more, at the foot of this page. The paths are shared with cyclists, runners and the odd horse rider, so be ready to step aside and say hello.

By the car park stands the Loch an Eilein Centre, a whitewashed old cottage turned gallery. The car park attendant can help you spot crested tits, which live in these pines with red squirrels and Scottish crossbills.

The Loch an Eilein Centre, a white cottage with a mossy roof, beside the track under autumn birches.
The Loch an Eilein Centre, by the car park.

About 650 metres along the west shore you come opposite the castle on its island. The story goes that the Wolf of Badenoch, a son of King Robert, built a tower house here as a hunting lodge in the 1380s. Its walls show five phases of building, the last in the 1600s. It sheltered people from raiders on the Thieves' Road, and when Jacobites attacked it in 1690, one account has the laird's wife, Grizel Mor, casting musket balls for its defenders. On the shore here, look for the monument to General Rice, who drowned while skating.

The castle on its island, seen through autumn branches from the west shore.
The castle, from the west shore.

The path rounds the broad south end and comes back up the east shore, the line of the old Thieves' Road. Some of the Rothiemurchus pines are over three hundred years old. At the north end, a dam and sluice built in the 1700s to float timber down to the Spey raised the loch and hid the zigzag causeway said to have reached the island.

The loch between old pine trunks on the shore, a wooded point reaching into the water.
Old pines on the east shore.

The gallery has opened from early April to the end of October, selling coffee and ice cream: check before counting on it, and in winter bring a flask. There are toilets by the centre. For lunch, the Barn at Rothiemurchus, about 3 km back towards Aviemore, opens every day from 9.30am to 4.30pm, with soups and cakes by a wood-burning stove; its hours change a little over Christmas.

If it rains

Much of the loop runs under old pines, which take the edge off a shower. On a wet day, the walk out to the castle view and back is a short visit in its own right.

Wildlife you might spot

Crested tits, red squirrels and Scottish crossbills make their home in these pines, and ospreys are seen now and then in summer. The car park attendant can help you spot the crested tits.

A crested tit on a spruce branch in the rain. Film: Adobe Stock.
A red squirrel on a pine log. Film: Adobe Stock.
An osprey hunting low over the water. Film: Shutterstock.

Ospreys once nested on the castle itself: Elizabeth Grant of Rothiemurchus remembered them on its battlements in her Memoirs of a Highland Lady, looking back to the early 1800s.

After the walk

Coffee and cake, something to do with the rest of the day, and dinner, nearest the end of the walk first.

For dinner

The Old Bridge Inn in Aviemore, 5 minutes by road. A pub on the bank of the Spey in Aviemore, once a gamekeeper's cottage, with a log fire, seasonal cooking and dinner every evening.

The Rowan Tree Country Hotel in Alvie, 7 minutes by road. A small family-run hotel overlooking Loch Alvie, three miles south of Aviemore, whose restaurant serves dinner every evening to anyone who books.

Andersons Restaurant in Boat of Garten, 16 minutes by road. A relaxed evening restaurant in Boat of Garten cooking local Scottish produce in season, with vegan and children's menus.

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