Evening light on the sandstone and lochans around Stac Pollaidh, in Coigach.
The guide

Wester Ross. Wester Ross guide

Torridon's mountains, the Bealach na Bà to Applecross, Plockton's palm trees and Ullapool on Loch Broom.

A Hidden Scotland guideEvening light on the sandstone and lochans around Stac Pollaidh, in Coigach.

The four parts of Wester Ross

A map of Wester Ross in relief, with its towns and villages and its four partsPlocktonLochcarronApplecrossShieldaigTorridonKinlocheweGairlochUllapoolAchiltibuieLiathachAn TeallachStac PollaidhLoch Maree

Wester Ross is the long Atlantic edge of the Highlands, running from Loch Broom and Ullapool in the north to Loch Alsh and the bridge to Skye in the south. It is a coast of sea lochs that reach far inland, of fishing villages tucked into sheltered bays, and of mountains that rise straight from the water. The roads are often single track and the weather can change by the hour. On a clear evening, with the sun going down over the Minch towards the Hebrides, you won't want to be anywhere else.

Plockton, Lochcarron and Kishorn

Plockton and Loch Carron

Plockton's painted cottages curve round a sheltered bay, with cabbage palms along the shore and little boats out to see the seals. Lochcarron strings its houses along the water, the broken arch of Strome Castle stands over the narrows, and at Kishorn the road turns off for the Bealach na Bà and the long climb to Applecross.

White houses line Plockton's shore below misty hills, seaweed covering the foreshore at low tide.A white cottage overlooks a loch where a sailboat rides at anchor, hills rising beyond.A white cottage with an autumn-gold tree sits above a seaweed-strewn shore beneath steep hills.
Applecross, Shieldaig and Torridon

Applecross and Torridon

Over the Bealach na Bà, the Applecross peninsula looks across the sea to Raasay and Skye, with an inn on the shore and a coast road round to Shieldaig. From there Loch Torridon leads you in under Liathach and Beinn Alligin, great mountains of red sandstone, to The Torridon, an old hunting lodge on the water.

Kinlochewe, Gairloch, Poolewe and Aultbea

Gairloch and Loch Maree

Loch Maree runs north-west from Kinlochewe under Slioch, scattered with wooded islands, and Beinn Eighe above it was Britain's first National Nature Reserve. At the far end, Inverewe Garden grows plants from around the world on the shore at Poolewe, and Gairloch has sandy beaches, a museum and a bookshop café.

Ullapool, Ardmair and Achiltibuie

Ullapool and Coigach

Ullapool is the largest town for miles around, a white fishing town on Loch Broom with bookshops, music and the ferry to Lewis. North of it the shingle curves round Ardmair under Ben More Coigach, and the road runs on past Stac Pollaidh to Achiltibuie, looking out to the Summer Isles. To the south, Corrieshalloch Gorge drops through the hills.

White cottages sit above a shingle beach curving around a calm sea loch beneath dark cliffs.A rugged mountain peak catches the last light above a loch-dotted landscape.A stone breakwater curves into calm water beneath a misty sky in Ross and Cromarty.
A stone breakwater curves into calm water beneath a misty sky in Ross and Cromarty.
In their words
“The town sits tucked under the hill on the quiet shores of Loch Broom and is the largest town for miles around.”

Laurie Goodlad
Travel writer, on her way to the Lewis ferry

Read it in Scotland’s rural food scene: seafood from Harris and Ullapool

Best known for.

Wester Ross is known for its mountains, and for the ancient rock they are made of. The tiered red sandstone of Torridon and An Teallach was laid down around a billion years ago, and in places it rests on Lewisian gneiss, the oldest rock in Britain. Between the peaks lie long freshwater lochs, and sea lochs full of seals, and a coast of pale sandy beaches looking out to the Western Isles. Add Inverewe Garden, the harbour at Plockton and the climb over the Bealach na Bà to Applecross, and it is easy to see why so many road trips round the north-west slow right down here.

More about Wester Ross

Each part of the coast has its own character. In the north, Ullapool is a neat grid of white houses on Loch Broom, with the ferry to Lewis at its pier. Gairloch and Poolewe sit on wide bays with sandy beaches, and the famous garden at Inverewe grows on a peninsula by Loch Ewe. Further south come Loch Maree and the great sandstone mountains of Torridon, then Shieldaig and the Applecross peninsula, reached over the high pass of the Bealach na Bà. In the south, Lochcarron, Plockton and Kyle of Lochalsh sit on the sea lochs that lead to Skye.

This is country for being outside. There are Munros to climb and gentle walks through ancient pinewood, seals to watch from a boat and quiet bays to explore by kayak. Red deer, otters and eagles are all part of the scenery. When the day is done, there are harbour bars with fresh langoustines on the menu, cafés with home baking worth stopping for, and places to stay where the view from the window does most of the work. Give yourself time, though. Distances look short on the map and take far longer on the road.