72 Hours in Torridon

Think of a weekend break, and you’ll probably end up in the busy streets of Paris or Rome, but travel North and you’ll be thrown into a landscape that feels almost out of place in the UK. Soaring mountains, precipitous ridgelines and alpine passes are all more in reach than a typical European city break and there’s one place that has all of them in spades: Torridon. Considered to be one of the most stunning places in all of Scotland, this quiet corner of the west coast is often breezed through by the ardent NC500’ers, but there’s so much to explore, eat and do in this relatively small area.

A mere 90 minutes away from Inverness, the drive to Torridon is almost an attraction in itself. Turning off the A9 just north of the mighty Kessock Bridge, the sights of civilisation gradually ebb away as you pass signs declaring that this is the ‘last petrol station before Ullapool’, some 50 miles up the road. Continuing west the landscape begins to open up, the road traversing vast emptiness accompanied only by the single-track railway line. It’s around Achnasheen that the appetiser of what’s to come shows itself; the peaks of Beinn Eighe and Liathach begin to loom on the horizon, the iconic peaks that flank Glen Torridon look relatively tame from this distance, less so when stood at the foot of them. A few miles shy of Kinlochewe is the first spot for a stop: Glen Docherty.

Hurtling over the hill from Loch a’Croisaig, the land to your left begins to fall away into a deeply incised river and to the right it seems to get steeper and steeper. A low drystone wall is the only insurance from the deep gully, no high-tech barriers here. Nervousness then transforms into wonder as the road begins to descend by way of an elegantly twisting and undulating road that almost looks like it was built to be a painting.

There’s a small carpark just over the brow of the hill which makes for a much more relaxed viewing experience rather than from a moving car. Looking beyond the sinuous road, past the small village of Kinlochewe, one’s gaze turns to Loch Maree and the southern edge of the Fisherfield Forest, one of the remotest areas in Scotland, around 250km2 of vast emptiness only punctuated by munros, lochs and deer; this is the real Highlands.

Passing through Kinlochewe which has a petrol station and small but well stocked shop carrying essentials including camping consumables and maps of the area, the road narrows further, now on the final approach to Torridon.

The single-track road that runs the length of the glen is an absolute treat for a sporty car with a wide variation in terrain, from tight and twisty sections to wide open stretches with excellent visibility that run along the floor of the valley. Care should be taken along the entire length as there are plenty of blind corners and deer often bolt across the road, particularly in the dusk light; you should also allow faster vehicles behind to overtake using the plentiful passing places otherwise things can rapidly end up in gridlock, especially in the height of summer.

The village of Torridon itself is very small, offering only a shop however there are some excellent accommodation options available. For unbridled luxury, head to The Torridon. A former hunting lodge sat on the shores of Loch Torridon, offering some of the finest hospitality in the UK, let alone Scotland. Regularly ranked among the top hotels in the country, it offers 18 uniquely decorated rooms which mix Scottish heritage with Victorian features and a splash of flamboyance for a memorable stay. It’s not all about grandeur and excess though, as the resort aims to be as sustainable as possible with an on site biomass generator and kitchen garden which provides produce for their triple AA Rosette winning 1887 restaurant.

If you’re looking for something that affords a little more freedom and space, then The Net Store might be just the ticket. Sitting on the site of a former fisherman’s net store (hence the name), this purpose built holiday home sleeps 4 in Scandi Scot style. Open plan kitchen and living spaces allow guests to enjoy the views over to Skye and the Hebrides beyond.

Having settled in, it’s time to explore the surroundings; there’s so much to do, see and eat close together, and the views are endless wherever you choose to venture.

The Applecross pass, or Bealach na Bà in Gaelic, is a fearsome piece of tarmac that climbs over 600m above sea level, connecting the little village of Applecross to the rest of civilisation. Heading south from Shieldaig, the road snakes through the ancient Beinn Shieldaig rainforest, home to species of rare lichen and fungi.

Continuing south, the vast mass of Beinn Bahn reveals itself, its intricate patchwork of corries and gullies giving an indication as to what is to come. Before the mighty climb of the Bealach na Bà begins, be sure to stop off at the Bealach Café which is on the junction at the foot of the climb. It serves excellent home-cooked scran with beautiful views over the landscape. It also has a little art gallery exhibiting a range of work by local artists. Fully fuelled for the adventure to come, jump back in the car and begin the climb up to the summit of the pass; this is another single track road that is very narrow in places with large drops to the side so use the passing places wisely.

Rounding the corner and entering the vast valley, the road is visible high above snaking through switchbacks, climbing relentlessly as the vegetation turns increasingly alpine, becoming more and more adept at fending off the freezing temperatures and howling winds. There’s a large layby just after the final hairpin which is a great place to get out and admire the view, if you’re feeling particularly adventurous then head due south from the road and go cross country a little to see the valley from a different angle. Be careful however, as the ground is rough and large drops are not visible until it’s almost too late. It’s easy to while away an hour or two just wandering around and exploring, but once your legs are weary, it’s time to continue on the road to Applecross, descending the 600m back to sea level. Still very isolated even by today’s standards, Applecross is a very picturesque village on the shores of the Inner Sound. On a clear day, the views over Raasay and Skye are hard to beat, as are the fish and chips from the very popular Applecross Inn.

Dining options in the village aren’t limited to the Inn: the Walled Garden, a few miles down the road, cooks with produce from the garden and local meat and fish. It is a little bubble of lushness amongst the rugged landscape. Refuelled once again, it’s time to hit the road and head back towards Torridon via the coastal road which takes in more fine views.

One spot in particular gives wonderful views back towards Torridon with the mountains looming on the horizon; just beyond Fearnmore as you round the corner and head back towards Torridon.

Due to the remoteness of Torridon, it’s a great place to watch the stars if the sky is clear. Light pollution is almost non-existent which provides a rare opportunity to see the night sky in all its glory; the Milky Way can often be seen stretching across the inky darkness and shooting stars punctuate the stillness. You’ll be guaranteed a good night’s sleep after a jam-packed day and an evening of star gazing, and you’ll need it: tomorrow is just as active.

Start the day with a trip to the Torridon Stores for some breakfast, another small but very well stocked little shop that has a wide array of cakes and sandwiches; you can’t go far wrong with their sausage sandwich and remember to get a slice of their homemade cake to take away, you’ll want it for what’s coming next. Head back up the glen towards Kinlochewe keeping your eyes peeled for Callum the deer, a friendly stag that spends most of his days in a car park at the foot of Liathach waiting for passers-by to share some of their lunch with him.

Once at Kinlochewe, turn right towards Gairloch, a route that takes you along the shores of Loch Maree. Often described as Scotland’s finest loch, it was formerly a centre for ironworking with over 7 hectares of oak woodland being cut down for charcoal but due to its remoteness, there is now little industry on the shores of the loch but remains of smelters and forges can be found on the northern shores.

Containing over 60 small islands, Loch Maree is a haven for wildlife and folklore, with remains of a chapel on one of the islands. The loch is not the main attraction here however, as to the south west lies the mighty and complex mountain range of Beinn Eighe. The first designated national nature reserve in the country, Beinn Eighe is home to the UK’s only signposted mountain trail which ascends to around 550m with sweeping views over the massif to the west and the Fisherfield Forest to the North East.

It’s not a particularly difficult walk, but be prepared for some rough terrain and rapidly changing weather; it’s not uncommon to start this walk in a t-shirt and need a warm coat by the time you’ve reached the top. The trail begins by climbing gently through the largest area of ancient Caledonian pinewood remaining in the region, but then the trail climbs relentlessly across rocky terrain which requires care to traverse safely.

The goal of the trail is now nearly within touching distance. The path flattens considerably and allows you to take in the surroundings of this high mountain environment. Conservation Cairn marks the highest point of the trail and is a great excuse to enjoy that slice of cake from the Torridon Store. The route back to the start is via a tamer path that descends via a burn and provides great views across to Slioch.

If ever there was an excuse for a hearty dinner, then a lengthy walk up one of the UK’s most diverse and rugged mountains is surely it. Follow the road back towards Torridon and then follow the signs to Diabaig. Often (very accurately) described as the hamlet at the end of the road, Diabaig is an incredibly picturesque little crofting township which clings onto the steep hillside surrounding a sheltered cove. Once home to a fish farm, the deep natural harbour provides shelter to moored boats from the brutal winter storms that lash the coastline. The small pier that juts out into the bay provides a spot for fishermen to land their catch which often ends up in the Gillie Brighde. Serving up a range of dishes using produce from local suppliers, the restaurant has gained such a reputation that booking is essential. The road from Torridon is winding, with sweeping views across the loch and as you climb up the Bealach na Gaoithe, a panorama across to Skye and the Hebrides opens up and really does warrant a stop to take it all in. Torridon’s landscape is diverse, and there is plenty to do, eat and explore. It would be quite easy to spend a fortnight here, let alone a weekend.