Things to do in Royal Deeside

Capturing the hearts of royalty for centuries, the Royal Deeside lies between the grand city of Aberdeen and the rolling wilderness of the Highlands. From the fast-flowing waters of the River Dee to the mountainous Craigs of the Cairngorms, it is a varied space that defies classification. Of course, there is more to the Royal Deeside than just scenery – throughout the area, towns such as Ballater and Braemar are thriving hubs of culture and hospitality. For what is just one small corner of Scotland, it is brimming with places to uncover and unseen lands to explore, of which this article can only highlight some. For those looking to choose their next adventure, the Royal Deeside is a fine place to begin.

The Scarnock springs take shape deep within the rolling Cairngorms, flowing down the mountains to eventually feed the historic Royal Lochnagar Distillery. For almost two hundred years, the company has continued to experiment and improve their celebrated whisky recipe, all while remaining authentic to the values James Robertson founded it upon. Tours of the distillery run daily, covering every stage of the production process, and culminating in a delicious five-dram whisky tasting session.

Placed across the Balmoral grounds with precise care, the eleven cairns each commemorate a separate event in recent royal history. Queen Victoria built eight to honour her children’s marriages, although the largest of the set remains the immense pyramid-shaped memorial to her husband, Prince Albert. All of the cairns are spottable by walkers traversing the scenic Balmoral estate and make for good checkpoints for your route, but only at times when the Royal Family themselves are not in residence.

Lying fifty miles to the west of Aberdeen, the royal holiday residence is one of the most famous locations in Scotland. Despite its vast historical importance, Balmoral as we know it only finished construction in 1856 when the previous castle on the grounds was deemed too small. The estate continues to be added to by successive royals, and the lands now open to explore cover around 50,000 acres. Guided tours are only available at very select times of the year, so make sure you’re prepared when booking your Royal Deeside trip.

Were the scenic landscapes that surround Braemar its only feature, the village would still be deserving of a visit. However, the thriving community within works incredibly hard to create a lively town brimming with activities and attractions. Various music venues are run throughout Braemar, with gigs and ceilidhs hosted by some of Scotland’s best up-and-coming talent. In the neighbouring glens and forest, visitors can also spot some beautiful examples of Scottish wildlife, from scampering red squirrels to the incredibly shy river otters.

A short drive from her Scottish residence, the Linn of Dee was a frequent haunt of Queen Victoria, who treasured the land’s tranquil scenery for her picnicking. Gazing around at the flowing stretches of the River Dee and the shadowed slopes of Glen Lui, it’s easy to see why Victoria spent so much time by the Linn. In modern times, volunteers have created an orienteering course for visitors to test themselves against. There is both a 1.5Km and a 5Km route on offer, or you can bypass the course entirely and simply take in the surroundings.

There is an undeniably heady atmosphere swirling through the ruins of Kindrochit Castle. The lands, and the structures formerly atop them, have passed through the hands of several prominent figures in Scottish history. King Robert II came here often for the hunting and eventually granted the lands to a Malcolm Drummond. The castle collapsed into ruin sometime before 1618. Only remnants of the once mighty fortress, excavated during the 1920s, now remain for historical visitors.

As well as its deep historical connections, the town of Braemar has also established itself as a hotbed of art and culture in the north. Andrew Braidwood founded the gallery in 1991 and has since grown it exponentially. From exhibiting and selling artistic works across all mediums, the gallery now also doubles as a live music venue, meaning Scottish creatives of all stripes have a fantastic space to showcase their talents.

The sprawling Glen Tanar estate has been developed by the current owners as cottage accommodation, while the land itself has been left for visitors to explore. With 25,000 acres in total, the variety of walking routes on offer is astounding – from gentle walks to challenging hilltop roams, Glen Tanar is microcosmic of the unpredictable Scottish landscape.

Ballater is unique among villages not just for its gorgeous Victorian architecture, but also for being situated wholly within the Cairngorms National Park, combining both natural and designed beauty. Built right in the middle of Royal Deeside, the village is one of the most thriving centres in the Aberdeenshire area where visitors can enjoy anything from historical tours to the countless outdoor sport options available. Those looking to take in the beautiful Cairngorm surroundings can do so on one of several walking routes, or by the beautiful golf course that surrounds Ballater.

To the north of Braemar itself, the impressive Braemar Castle stands tall in its 17th century stylishness. The ancestral seat of Clan Farquharson, the castle is leased into public ownership, allowing the local charity to open its amazing rooms for visitors to explore. Inside, the team work hard to balance out historical information with a local flair. Many of the interior rooms, unchanged from their original decorations, are used to host community events, establishing incredible links with both the past and future of Braemar.

The Braemar Highland Games Centre celebrates the deep-rooted Scottish tradition of the Highland games. Visitors to the Centre can explore the wonderful history of the games, each wall (and ceiling) telling a different story. Exhibiting historical artefacts dating from the group’s origins in 1815, this space is a loving testimonial to the Highland games’ importance for Scottish life.

Just a short distance from Balmoral itself, the royal family share their preferred place of worship with the local parish. The land Crathie Kirk stands on has been home to many religious buildings over the centuries, with evidence of worship dating back all the way to the 6th century. Hundreds of years later, it became the favourite church of Queen Victoria, with her loyal servant John Brown even being buried in its graveyard. Today, Crathie Kirk is a reminder of Deeside’s connections to royalty, both historically and contemporarily, as well as being simply a stunning location to visit.

One of Scotland’s most fascinating aspects is the sheer range of historical eras that have left their mark on the landscape. Dating to around 4,500 years ago, the Tomnaverie Stone Circle is an arrangement of stones presumed to be a site of Neolithic burial ritual. This structure – two vertical stones on either side of a recumbent one – is seen repeated throughout the Northeast and remains an enigmatic symbol of our ancestry.

At a staggering 29,000 hectares, it is not surprising that Mar Lodge is the largest National Nature Reserve in all of Britain. Located in the centre of the Cairngorms, the sprawling estate contains wild and varied landscapes. There are fifteen Munros rising throughout Mar Lodge which, along with the pine forests, moors, and wetlands, are the Scottish Highlands in (technically) miniature. Animals of the land, sky, and water all call the reserve their home, making it a fine place for wilderness enthusiasts.

The Fife Arms is among the most luxurious places to eat on Deeside. The kitchen, operating from within the grand hotel’s estate, offers an everchanging menu of seasonal produce that highlights the best of Scottish cuisine. From local game to freshly grown ingredients, everything that goes onto the plate is of the highest quality. The dining room is filled with beautiful dark wood panels, and art from Argentinian painter Guillermo Kuitca.

A significant part of Deeside’s connections with royalty comes from the railway line travelled annually by Queen Victoria and her descendants. Although that line is no longer operational, a charitable foundation restored the station into its original design, which has now been repurposed as The Carriage restaurant. Located in Ballater Station, the restaurant is celebrated not just for its delicious dinner offerings, but also its afternoon tea.

Set within a former quarry, the landscape that surrounds Tarmachan Café has been replanted to bring nature back to where it once was. The café itself is run by partners Tom and Caitlin, who specialise in front-of-house coffee making and back-of-house cookery respectively. Together, they have created a gorgeous space to showcase their skills, offering a range of artisanal bakes and beverages beneath a canopy of treetops.

Rothesay Rooms’ head chef, Ross Cochrane, embraces Scottish cuisine in every dish the kitchen prepares. The menu changes with the local seasons, but never strays from Cochrane’s vision of innovative Scottish food.

The beautiful yet homely exterior of Clachan Grill promises a perfect mix of relaxed atmosphere and delicious home-cooking. Both of these promises are expertly delivered on, with a menu that offers a huge range of favourites ranging from Scottish salmon to Cajun-inspired flavours. Clachan Grill is built on the banks of the River Dee, giving diners an incredible view over the flowing waters and the rolling hills beyond.

Just as the name suggests, The Bothy is a cosy space full of warm drinks and warmer welcomes. The coffee shop is located at the edge of Braemar, serving an excellent send-off for those leaving to explore the mountains and a welcome return for those coming home. They offer a wide range of hot beverages and freshly baked treats – sweet and savoury – and are very dog friendly, making it a perfect stop for any party.

Braemar Lodge prides itself on being a characterful hotel. The in-house restaurant offers a range of home-cooked classics that excel partly due to their simplicity. The building has a history dating back to 1870 and stands in its own corner of the Highlands.

Much like the restaurant within it, every aspect of the Fife Arms is crafted to provide absolute luxury. There are a variety of suites and normal rooms on offer, each celebrating different aspects of Scottish culture. Every room is decorated with handmade, often antique, furniture that suits the hotel’s history. Even the surrounding garden is pristine, having been designed by Chelsea Flower Show medallist Jinny Blom. Nothing in the Fife Arms has been overlooked, and the hotel holds five stars.

Hidden away off a rural Highland road, the opulent gardens and exterior of Douneside House give a taste of the luxury within. Douneside was originally the domain of the MacRobert family, who purchased the colossal stately home and accompanying Casa Memoria building as a holiday home. Now converted into a luxurious four-star hotel, the house is filled with original furniture and historical artefacts that pay tribute to the storied history of Douneside while maintaining absolute comfort for guests.

The Boat Inn sits on the banks of the River Dee. The inn has served as a favourite stayover for locals and visitors to Royal Deeside alike since it first opened its doors back in 1720. While many things inside may have changed over the centuries, their dedication to a welcoming village-pub atmosphere has never waned. The Boat Inn offers comfortable rooms, a warm welcome and pub food.

For those looking for accommodation rather more remote than usual, try Howe of Torbeg, a glamping site in the northeast. Set in just one acre of land, the cosy patch has four beautiful wooden glamping pods perched atop Glen Gairn, allowing guests to relax amidst the wonderful Scottish nature. The campsite is situated five miles from Ballater – far enough to get away from it all, but close enough to restock on the essentials if needed.

Tucked within the Cairngorms National Park, Sweet Donside offers a choice of four private cabins designed for couples. Each self-catered cabin was purpose built to suit different couples’ requirements, from a small den all the way up to a multi-room cottage. The cabins stand in eight acres of Cairngorms landscape, free for guests to explore.

If you are looking for idyllic remoteness, Gairnshiel Lodge is the place. It has had many owners since its inception in 1720, when it was established as a hunting lodge and quickly became a favourite of both the landed gentry and visiting royalty. Each room is luxurious but calm. The monochromatic decoration is unusual in the colourful Highlands, and the welcome is Scottish through and through.

Against the Edenic backdrop of the Cairngorms, the easy grace of Inverenzie Cottage makes it an almost intimidatingly beautiful hideaway. The house is rented out by a passionate Belgian couple, who bring subtle European design and temper it with the rugged beauty of the Highlands. Inverenzie Cottage is just fifteen minutes’ drive from Balmoral.

The Glen Tanar estate covers vast swathes of the countryside, offering various forms of accommodation depending on your needs. One option is particularly romantic. The bucolic Tower O’Ess stands tall over the River Tanar – a magnificent gatehouse that dates back to the early Victorian era. Although it has been almost completely renovated, there are still plenty of historical features and secrets waiting to be uncovered, making the Tower O’Ess an unusual place to stay.