From Issue Thirteen of Hidden Scotland Magazine
A Weekend Exploring the Isle of Mull
A local’s guide to a weekend on the Isle of Mull, from Dervaig.
Words by Shelley Richmond
Printed in Issue Thirteen of Hidden Scotland Magazine, Autumn and Winter 2026–27.
Photographer, painter and now magazine founder, Shelley Richmond wears a few hats on the Isle of Mull. She shares her insider's guide to the island, revealing the beaches, creative corners and much-loved local spots that shape her life in Dervaig.
Meet your local guide
Shelley Richmond
Shelley Richmond is a freelance creative based in Dervaig, on the Isle of Mull. She's been a photographer for 15 years and dabbles in other practices here and there, though these days, since moving to Mull, she finds the question of what she actually does a bit harder to answer. Everyone on the island seems to have at least three jobs. She's no exception. Alongside the photography she works with a local interior designer on some beautiful projects, paints, and makes things, fairly compulsively. There's a large renovation project and smallholding on the go too, which she runs with her husband Paul. Most recently she launched a biannual magazine made specifically for the island: The Isle of Mull Journal, a celebration of the place, its community, its creativity and its character.
- How long have you lived on Mull, and what brought you here?
- I moved here with my husband, daughter and two dogs a week before Christmas 2022, after a property we were buying in the Peak District fell through. We decided to do what we’d always wanted to do and move to the island. We’d been visiting for years; Paul since before he can remember. Mull has always just felt like the place we were supposed to be, and especially after having kids (we've had another baby since moving to the island) we wanted the opportunity to give them the freedom and space that the island affords us.
- What is it that you particularly enjoy about living and working in this part of Scotland?
- There is something special about leaving the bustle of the mainland by boat to get home. I feel a physical lightness when I drive off the ferry and back onto Mull. Having the space for animals and growing food, being surrounded where we are, by wide open views of the landscape and the abundant wildlife is just so good for the soul. I love our community, the tiny school my daughter goes to, our brilliant local businesses and the pace and variety of working life here as a freelancer. Driving to work I often see oystercatchers, lapwings, deer, woodcocks and sometimes even otters and eagles.
- What advice would you give to anyone looking to explore Mull?
- Plan your trip. Mull is much bigger than people think and getting around the island can take longer than you’d imagine on the single-track roads. Decide before you come as to what you’d like to do and adjust according to the weather. A weekend isn’t long enough to explore the whole island so pick an area or two, or a few key things that you’d really like to experience. Bring your big coat and your bikini – the weather here really can be four seasons in a day.
- Can you give us a rundown on what Mull is like as the seasons change, and in your opinion when is the best time to visit?
- I find winter here is particularly magical. A lot of businesses close from October, reopening in April, but the island has a truly peaceful quality over these months. Being on the Gulf Stream, the weather is often milder than in mainland Scotland and you’ll find you get beaches all to yourself. However, to experience the best of Mull, May is a lovely month to visit, with warmer weather, fewer midges in the evenings and abundant greenery and life everywhere you look. Everyone is open for the season and the island has a real hum to it.
The weekend
Shelley’s ideal weekend
Day one
Day 1
Calgary Bay Co
Breakfast, the woods and the beachI’d start the weekend with a trip to Calgary Bay Co for breakfast, exploring the Calgary Art in Nature woodland walk with the kids and a look around the gallery and down to the beach for a couple of hours.
More about Calgary Bay Co
Tobermory
A wander and a tour of the bayThen a drive over to Tobermory for a wander and a tour of the bay with Tobermory Bay Tours to see some of the abundant wildlife.
More about Tobermory
The Glass Barn
Coffee and cakeDriving out of Tobermory to the Glass Barn at Sgriob-ruadh Farm to soak up the glorious interiors and grab coffee and cake.
More about The Glass Barn
Dùn Ara
A late afternoon walk, and a swimA late afternoon walk down at Glengorm to Dùn Ara, which, if you time it right, has the most perfect tidal pool for a swim.
More about Dùn Ara
Am Birlinn
DinnerThen head to Am Birlinn for dinner to sample some of the island's finest produce sourced within a radius of just a few miles.
More about Am Birlinn
Day two
Day 2
Torosay
The gardens, on the first SundayIf you’re lucky enough to be visiting on the first weekend of the month then the incredible gardens at Torosay will be open (they only open the first Sunday of the month from April to October).
Croft 3
Sunday lunch, then the black beachSunday lunch at Croft 3, gazing out the massive windows at Ben More, followed by a meander down to the black beach for a swim or paddleboard.
More about Croft 3The Bellachroy
Drinks in DervaigI’d round off the weekend with drinks back in our local village Dervaig at The Bellachroy, the oldest inn on Mull.
Plan your weekend
Shelley’s top picks
Eat · Daytime
Calgary Bay Co
The best veggie and vegan breakfast around. Epic cakes and great coffee.
The Glass Barn
Quite possibly the most beautiful café in the Hebrides and you can meet the now famous Balamory pigs Kath and Kim.
The Old Post Office
Lochbuie
The loveliest café, open seven days a week and the perfect spot to start and end a walk to Moy Castle.
Tobermory Stores
Homemade pasties, pies, toasties, salads and loads more. A tiny but perfectly stocked village store with great takeaway coffee (shoutout for the vegan pasties, perfect hike fodder).
Eat · Evening
Croft 3
Fanmore
My favourite place to eat in Mull, run by friends Jeanette and Jack. Jeanette restored the building from complete ruin. Elegantly simple interior with giant windows framing the view across to Ben More. The food is the only thing better than the space itself. There is always a delicious and inspiring vegan option.
Ar Bord
Dervaig
Operated out of their home through the season, Iain and Joyce serve the most incredible local produce with a relaxed supper club atmosphere.
Am Birlinn
Penmore
A really great restaurant for families and larger groups. I adore their menu: it tells you the (very minimal) food miles for all their ingredients.
The Galleon
Tobermory
A real treat. They always have the most delicious vegan options and a great selection of cocktails, too!
Drink
The Bellachroy
Dervaig
This is our local. Freshly refurbished by new owners Matt and Tom, a lovely place for a drink in the sunshine or the cosy snug in the winter. They’ve also added a gorgeous brand-new glasshouse to the premises which you can hire for private gatherings.
The Mishnish
Tobermory
Part of the colourful frontage at Tobermory, a traditional pub and an excellent place for an afternoon pint.
The Keel Row
Fionnphort
A community-owned pub down on the Ross of Mull, they often have live music and always the loveliest atmosphere. The perfect place for an evening drink if you’re staying at the campsite at Fidden.
The Western Isles Hotel
Tobermory
Play some pool and darts in the room that was designed by Banjo Beale on his show Designing the Hebrides and enjoy cocktails, or a dram or two.
Explore
Loch na Keal and surrounding area
This area is incredible for wildlife spotting. One of the best things to do here is to hire a local wildlife guide, like Ewan from Nature Scotland to help you explore and have the best chance of spotting wildlife while respecting their environment and habitats.
The Treshnish Loop
Park opposite the entrance to Treshnish on the way round to Calgary. The walk takes you along the wild Northwest coastline with views across to the Treshnish Isles. Walk through wildflower meadows, along farm tracks and down around the headland to find the whisky cave. The walk emerges by the Tin Shed Gallery, followed by a short stroll back along the road to the car park.
The Burg and The Fossil Tree
One of the more challenging walks on the island but this was always a favourite for us and our wider family group when we visited as tourists. The track follows along the south coast of the Ardmeanach Peninsula. It’s a full day’s walk and a bit of a scramble at times with part of the route climbing down a long iron ladder (thankfully recently replaced by the National Trust for Scotland). Always check the tidal charts for this one.
Knockvologan
Probably the most beautiful beach on the island, located on the Ross of Mull. The best place to paddle board around all the tiny islands, spot seals and while away the day on the sands.
Relax
Island Sauna Shack
A mobile sauna that pops up at various places across the island by the sea so you can dash straight in for a cold-water dip. They’re often at Fidden Farm, sometimes at Calgary beach or at Salen Pier.
The Wilderness Spa at the Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa
This is a private little area that you can hire at the hotel, in a secluded spot with hot tub, sauna and lounge beds, it’s a pure indulgent outdoor escape with table service.
Lip na Cloiche Gardens
Lucy’s incredible garden at Ballygown is open to the public and a beautiful place to wander, relax and enjoy (especially after a lunch at nearby Croft 3).
Shop
Hebridean Whale Centre
Support the work of the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust, learn about their conservation efforts and stock up on beautiful merch and gifts. For anyone who loves the sea and cetaceans, this is a must visit.
Calgary Gallery
A gallery brimming with local creativity, from larger pieces to smaller items and books in their gift shop. I am slightly biased as they display my paintings and sell the 'Isle of Mull Journal' for me. Look out for my favourite artist couple Andy and Helen Mortley who always have gorgeous work on display.
MESS, Island Castaways
A little-known fact about Mull is that we have the best charity shop in the world, and this is it. Untold treasure and bargains with every visit.
Browns Tobermory
Award-winning shop that sells literally everything. Colin and Helen can get you a new washing machine within an hour, stock up your chicken feed supply, advise on the finest single malt and find you that little rubber washer that you lost for that thing that doesn’t work without it. A go-to place for anyone visiting who’s forgotten something essential and a lifeline for residents.
Activities
Boat trips to Staffa and The Treshnish Isles
See the puffins and the incredible geology. Hop on one of 'Turus Mara’s' boat trips from Ulva Ferry between May and July for some puffin therapy.
Farm Hike at the Fauld
Tobermory
Go for a guided farm hike with Karen to see Highland Ponies and meet friendly Shetland Sheep. The best time is May because the hillside is absolutely bursting with wildflowers. Take your camera, the views are stunning.
Hire e-bikes from the Ben More Estate
A really good way to explore the island, the bikes are available to hire for non-residents, right in the middle of the island.
Salen Bay Hire
You can rent kayaks and paddleboards by the hour down by the old pier at Salen, a great way to give it a go if you’re not bringing your own.
And don’t forget
Shelley’s top tips
- 1
Rainy Days. If you’re visiting with small children and the weather takes a turn, there is a wonderful little soft play aptly called Rainy Days in Tobermory, tucked inside the Aros Hall. It’s not staffed but runs on donations. Grab coffee and cake from the bakery or chips from the Fisherman’s Pier truck and let the little ones run wild.
- 2
The Salen Show. The agricultural show of the year. If you time your visit to coincide with this event, you're in for a treat. Highlights include the cattle and sheep judging, races and games for the kids, delicious food and drink stalls, the produce tent, fun dog show and our favourite the poultry shed. My daughter will be defending her first-place rosette this year with one of her friendly little bantams.
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