A weekend exploring Oban - a local’s guide

How long have you lived in Oban, and what brought you here?

I’ve lived in Oban for 12 years. After growing up in Edinburgh and spending time living in cities all over the world, my husband and I were ready for a slower pace of life to raise our kids. Daniel already had family here and remote working meant the move was actually doable. Oban just felt right, a place where we could work creatively, slow things down a bit and give our children the freedom to grow up surrounded by the sea, hills and fresh air. 

What is it that you particularly enjoy about living and working in this part of Scotland? 

I love being surrounded by nature while still feeling connected. Oban strikes a rare balance of remoteness and everyday life. I can enjoy quiet walks along the coast, then easily pop into a café, meet friends or head out for a nice meal. And when we fancy a change of pace, Edinburgh or Glasgow are just a few hours away, so it’s easy to enjoy peaceful surroundings at home while keeping city life within reach. 

What advice would you give to anyone looking to explore the area? 

My advice would be not to rush straight onto the ferries to the islands, tempting as they are. Take a bit of time to explore Oban and the surrounding area first. There’s so much close by, from easy forest walks and beautiful beaches to old castles and cairns. It’s the kind of place best enjoyed when you slow down and take the time to look around. Take in the landscape before heading further afield. 

Can you give us a rundown on what Oban is like as the seasons change and when the best time to visit is? 

Summer is lively, with a buzzy vibe, perfect for warm evenings in a beer garden or at the beach. Winter is more peaceful (some businesses close in January, reopening by Easter) but storms can affect travel. Clear, frosty winter days, however, are absolutely stunning. For me, the best times to visit are May or late September. There are fewer tourists, lovely weather and still plenty of life in town, making it the perfect balance of calm and activity. 

When you fancy a getaway, where in Scotland do you like to spend time? 

That’s a tricky one. I have so many favourites! We often escape to Edinburgh, usually stopping for lunch at Mhor 84 Motel along the way. We’re so lucky to be surrounded by stunning landscapes and nature every day, so it’s hard to beat where we already live. We tend to head to the city when we want a change: a bit of culture, galleries, museums and city life. It’s such a nice contrast to our coastal surroundings and always feels refreshing to swap hills and sea views for cobbled streets and exhibitions for a few days. If I had to choose more rural destinations, I’d say we’ve had amazing recent trips to the south of Mull, Ulva and Ardnamurchan as well as Colonsay.

Plan your weekend with Lorna’s Top Picks

Eat ~ Daytime

Hinba
My absolute favourite café with the best coffee in town. The perfect spot to watch boats and locals go by. I try not to be tempted by their pastel de natas every day.

The Kettle at Dunollie
Great seasonal café in the grounds of Dunollie Castle. The seating is all outdoors and on a warm spring day it’s a lovely place to enjoy the birds and have lunch or coffee, along with their tasty homemade soup.

Sorcha Bakery
Incredible pastries, breads and sandwiches, all locally made in small batches. Think boutique micro-bakery.

Oban Chocolate Company
Heaven for chocolate lovers. They also serve good coffee and cakes (you can also watch the chocolate being made). It overlooks the bay, so it’s a great place to sit and watch the weather come in.

Eat ~ Evening
Inverlonan Wild Dining
A totally unique, off-grid dining experience, serving local, seasonal ingredients cooked by a top chef. These only run every now and then, so it’s always best to check their socials.

Coast
Cosy and intimate restaurant in the centre of town. Food is always great, as are the lovely staff and it’s where Daniel and I usually go for a romantic meal on date night.

Sòlas Pizza Pop-Ups
Fun, casual pizza nights; keep an eye on their socials to find where they’re pitched up. They’re often at Tralee Bay beside the sauna, making it perfect for a relaxed evening on the beach.

Waypoint on the Isle of Kerrera
An easy ferry trip from the pier in town, with stunning views and fresh local food. It feels far away from everything, even though you’re only five minutes from the mainland.

Drink
The Oban Inn
Classic old local pub with lots of character and a cosy, friendly vibe in the winter.

MacGregor’s Bar at the Whisky Vaults
Cosy yet traditional whisky bar with live folk music.

No17 The Promenade
Something a bit different for Oban in the form of a modern bar with stylish interiors. I like to meet friends here for a creative cocktail catch-up. They also serve lovely Italian food in their restaurant, Porcini.

Markie Dans
If you fancy something a bit livelier, I can’t go without mentioning Markie’s. An intimate live music venue with a mix of traditional and cover bands. It’s full to bursting with lively locals on Friday and Saturday nights and is great for a dance. It also serves good pub grub.

Explore/Walks ~ Local

Dunollie Wood (Scotland’s rainforest)
With peaceful trails to explore, it’s a quiet escape close to town. I love walking through all the different types of trees (and collecting acorn cups or bits of fallen lichen for my art). Head up nearby Battleship Hill for more of a hike and amazing views.

Ganavan Sands
We’re here most days walking the dog and there are always people sea swimming (no matter the season or the weather). You can also head past the beach and walk along the coast over the hills to the little fairy circle.

McCaig’s Tower
Oban’s iconic viewpoint (you can’t miss it) gives a stunning panorama of the town and surrounding hills after a short, steep climb.

Day trips from Oban
Tralee Bay
A long, beautiful beach that's perfect for a stroll along the sand.

Sutherland’s Grove, Barcaldine
Home to huge old trees and a river gorge walk up to the “troll bridge”, one of my favourite places.

Easdale
Tiny slate island (famous for the annual World Stone Skimming Championship) with traditional cottages and waterfilled quarries (great for swimming). You can walk around the whole island in about an hour. It always feels special going on the little boat from Seil.

Kilmartin Glen and Museum / Carnasserie Castle
Fascinating ancient sites. A must-see if you love history and the kids will love the castle.

Isle of Kerrera
Take a spectacular walk along the coast from the ferry to Kerrera Tea Garden & Bunkhouse and Gylen Castle (about an hour’s walk). Or walk around the whole island in a few hours if you’re feeling energetic. You can also stay overnight in the cosy bothy beside the newly converted schoolhouse.

Arduaine Garden
Being obsessed with flowers I always seek out gardens. Arduaine is a beautiful National Trust garden on the coast, a 20-minute drive south of Oban, so we visit often.

Fairy Bridge of Glen Creran
A secret walk at Glen Creran leads to a hidden little bridge that looks like something out of Tolkien. It's a bit off the beaten path but well worth the effort.

Shop

The Modern Croft
A stylish lifestyle and homeware shop. Izzy carefully curates a selection from local independent makers, from textiles and jewellery to ceramics, prints and books. It’s my go-to place for gifts.

Oban Whisky and Fine Wines
An unbeatable selection, with great advice and tastings available.

The Highland Soap Company
Handmade soaps and skincare (made right here in the Highlands). They have a small shop on the main street.

Alba the Artshop
As an artist, I have to mention Alba as it’s where I’ll grab an emergency paintbrush, glue stick or charcoal pencil. They also have lovely cards and gifts for young kids.

Relax
Wild Bathing
Jo’s wood-fired beach saunas and sea dips are a great new addition to Oban at Ganavan Sands and Tralee Bay.

Isle of Eriska Hotel & Spa
Whenever I need a special treat, I head here for the quiet pool, steam room or a relaxing massage treatment.

Activities
Cycling
There’s a great cycle track away from traffic that takes you from Ganavan Sands to Dunstaffnage Castle.

Paddle boarding
Nothing better on a calm day at the local beaches than just paddling close to shore. Basking Shark Scotland offers lessons if you’ve never tried it before.

Fishing trips with Argyll Sea Tours
My 12-year-old son and husband love these mackerel fishing trips. Good for more serious anglers too. They also do wildlife and history tours around the bay or the island of Kerrera. Small numbers make it feel more intimate and Jack’s great with local knowledge.

The Rockfield Centre
Gigs, workshops, fashion shows and theatre – always best to check what’s upcoming as tickets sell out fast in a small town.

Lastly, take a short flight on Hebridean Air Services’ little yellow plane to Colonsay from Oban Airport (or just as a sightseeing tour). There’s something special about being on a tiny eightseater plane flying over stunning beaches and landscapes.

and don't forget Lorna’s Top Tips…

Early morning Ganavan Sands 

Enjoy the calm of the morning (before it gets busier, particularly during the summer months) with a peaceful walk or wild swim here. It’s beautiful at sunrise. 

Take your time in local cafés 

Places like Hinba are perfect for people-watching and it’s easy to get chatting to locals for insider knowledge and advice. 

Artmap Argyll art trail 

The ‘Open Studios’ event runs over two weeks every August – a great way to meet local artists in their studios and workshops and see how and where they work. Maybe even buy some unique art pieces. With a lot of artists living quite remotely, it also gives you the opportunity to visit places you would never normally go. 

Lorna’s illustration work can be found on Instagram at @lornafreytag, and her mixed-media art is shared at @lornafreytagart.