Meditating on Nature - Argyll's Secret Coast

That fact isn’t surprising: Argyll’s Secret Coast at the southwestern end of the Cowal peninsula is just what its name suggests – little known and even less visited. Occupying the protrusion of land between Loch Fyne and the Kyles of Bute, the Secret Coast is a jigsaw of sea lochs, lonely hills and ancient woodland. It’s where red squirrels forage, common seals bask and golden eagles soar. There are forgotten villages and crumbling castles. It’s a rare place to be alone with nature.

The walk to Ostel Bay – Gaelic for Kilbride Bay – is among the network of paths, woodland tracks and quiet roads that burrow deep without straying far. In shoreside Glenan Wood at Portavadie, it’s a few steps from the car park to reach twisty ancient oak woodland – as intricate as a fine pencil drawing – quilted with mosses, lichens and algae. Through the trees lies a lost village thought to date from 1309. It’s returned to the ground now, the buildings piles of stones tangled in undergrowth. On the nearby shore, jellyfish slumber, translucent, awaiting high tide to carry them away. Thrift and sea pink flutter in the breeze and wild mustard glows.

I’m staying in an eco lodge at coastal smallholding Carry Farm on the Ardlamont peninsula, and each day I have awoken to this: yellow flag irises dancing on the edge of a stony beach that mirrors the silver of the Kyles of Bute, and, rising opposite, the hills of the Isle of Bute lit up acid green by the morning sun. Occasionally a sailing boat will glide past on the water, or you’ll spot a reed bunting teetering along the shore.

Owners Fiona and Derek have been running the farm – a white stone building with a bright red roof – since 1997. “Having spent my childhood summers sailing the west coast of Scotland, I have always had a soft spot for red roofs – so you can imagine my delight when I actually owned one!” says Fiona.

The couple developed Carry Farm and its adjacent Tighnabruaich Sailing School organically, building sensitively as required, and they hope guests staying on the farm’s campsite or in one of its architect-designed lodges will use the opportunity to go slow and switch off their devices to make the most of being away from the city. “What sets our region apart from many areas in Scotland is that despite being very rural and remote, it is accessible to the central belt within a couple of hours. This means that our adventure coast can be enjoyed by people living in more built-up regions,” says Fiona.

The farm is home to two donkeys (Barney and Louis), and a 50-strong flock of Hebridean sheep. This small breed tread lightly on the soil and help manage the heathland, allowing tussock grass, heathers and wild orchids to survive. Fiona weaves their wool into beautiful crafts available in the farm shop and gallery, which also sells free range eggs and lamb. The gallery is a crafty outpost that continues further in the art shops of Tighnabruaich, a charming village where Victorian and Edwardian villas with pointy gables and stained-glass windows peer out over one of the few surviving working wooden piers in the Firth of Clyde. It belongs to the heyday of the paddle steamers, when Glaswegians took trips “doon the watter” – up the Clyde and through the Kyles of Bute. The Waverley still calls at Tighnabruaich on its summer excursions.

As the sun begins to plop below the horizon, I walk along the shore at Carry Farm, bidding goodnight to the sheep and donkeys before dropping to the water’s edge. I am, of course, the only person around – but I am not, as it happens, alone. An oystercatcher approaches, looking like it is suited and booted for a dinner date. It starts to kleep – a kind of whistling noise designed to deter passers-by from seashore nests. I keep moving. This is the oystercatcher’s territory. This land, where pure beaches are untouched and ancient woodland locks away stories of centuries past – it is for us to visit and then leave well alone, undisturbed, perfectly secret.

SEE & DO

Go Back in Time 

The Secret Coast proposes a rich collection of historic sites, from latemedieval grave slabs to waterfalls manmade in the Victorian era. The latter – you’d never guess they were artificial – tumble, lace-like, from the Altt Mor Burn in Kilfinan Community Forest, where you’ll also find the recently reopened section of the ancient Kilfinan Way. For evocative scenes, visit Ascog Castle, ruined during the 1646 massacre by the Campbells of Ormsary, and now a romantic mound of crumbling stone beside Ascog Loch. In bad weather, head for the churchyard burial aisle in Glendaruel: it contains nine beautifully carved 14th- and 15th-century grave slabs. 
www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk

Take to the Water 

“We nearly always spot seals or porpoises, and there are very few occasions that we don’t catch fish,” says Donald Clark, an ex-submarine engineer who now runs fishing and wildlifespotting trips into the Kyles of Bute on his refurbished fishing boat Morag. Trips depart daily from Tighnabruaich pier from April to November.
www.dcmarineboattrips.co.uk

Alternatively, try sailing – you’re in the right place for it: Tighnabruaich was a boat-building centre in the early 20th century and home to men who skippered famous 1930s yachts, including Endeavour. Tighnabruaich Sailing School on Carry Farm offers twoto five-day courses, and private tuition. www.carryfarm.co.uk

Relax in a Spa 

It’s not what you’d expect to find, but it’s just what you’ll find you want: Scotland’s largest heated outdoor infinity pool. It’s 33C in luxury resort Portavadie’s pool, where you can bask, nice and toasty, and gaze across Loch Fyne to lively fishing port Tarbert. The spa also has an indoor pool, sauna and gym, while the resort extends to luxury accommodation and a selection of lovely restaurants arranged around a marina. A visit ties in nicely with a walk in nearby Glenan Wood. 
www.portavadie.com

Discover Art 

With its scenery and light, the Secret Coast has long attracted artists. The result is a lively art scene. Tighnabruaich Gallery, which showcases work from Scottish as well as international artists, has an exhibition programme featuring painters, sculptors and glass artists. 
www.tiggallery.com

Down at Carry Farm, the Hayshed Gallery features Hebridean wool crafts made by owner Fiona, as well as her sister’s ceramics, and West Coast-inspired printed textiles designed by her niece. www.hayshedgallery.co.uk

EAT & DRINK

Pitstops and cafes

Evanachan Farm Hut 

A roadside hut near Otter Ferry, stocked with organic eggs, jams, chutneys and handmade cheese from Evanachan Farm. Simply pay in the honesty box. 

Kames Village Store 

An award-winning traditional grocer’s, selling everything from Bute cheese to Argyll Bakery bread and Loch Fyne ales. A must for anyone self-catering. 
www.kamesvillage.store 

The Tearoom 

Handmade Victoria sponge, gooey cheesecake and the best brownies in town – this Tighnabruaich café’s lusciously stocked counter is the centrepiece of a cheerful interior where you can relax and watch the world go by. 
www.tearoomtighnabruaich.com

RESTAURANTS AND BARS

 The Oystercatcher 

The Ballimore oysters served at this friendly and much-loved restaurant on the banks of Loch Fyne in Otter Ferry are fresh from next door. Local fare on the menu also includes mussels and crab, and meat from nearby farms. 
www.theoystercatcher.co.uk 

Portavadie Marina Restaurant and Bar 

Watch yachts glide by as you warm your hands around a mug of hot chocolate; dine al-fresco on Tarbert scallops with parsnip and apple; or toast a brilliant holiday with a house-infused gin and lemonade. 
www.portavadie.com

STAY

Carry Farm 

Four well-equipped, comfortable and tranquil lodges on Carry Bay, steps from the beach and with magnificent views. There is also a small site for wild camping where you’ll awaken to the sound of lapping water. 
www.carryfarm.co.uk 

The North Lodge 

A beautifully refurbished Victorian self-catering cottage on the edge of Ormidale estate, with quirky local design features and a brook running through the garden. www.selfcateringargyll.com 

Kames Hotel 

This historic property in Tighnabruaich pairs stately Edwardian charm with fresh, clean design. Its terrace boasts dramatic views across the Kyles of Bute, best enjoyed over local shellfish in the restaurant. 
www.kames-hotel.com

words // Emily Rose Mawson - photography // Eilidh Cameron