Discovering the Nooks and Crannies of the Borders

Introduction to The Borders

Spread like a rumpled green blanket over a vast swathe of southeast Scotland, this is a land of widescreen hillscapes, clear-running rivers and lively festivals, a place where arable traditions prevail, where history resounds over every valley, and where the handsome towns and villages bubble with cultural activity. To the east, meanwhile, the sweeping cliffs of the Berwickshire coastline only add to the overall appeal. 

The likes of Peebles, Melrose and Kelso are all well accustomed to winning over first-time visitors, twinning age-old architecture with modern, independent local businesses. The Borders doesn’t go in for large settlements – the biggest town is Galashiels, with a population that barely noses 15,000 – and this is a major part of the charm. The atmosphere-laden abbeys, towering castles and boundless open views that define the region were a rich source of inspiration for the likes of Sir Walter Scott and John Buchan. 

Don’t be tempted, however, into thinking the pace of life never rises above a saunter. The mountain- biking and hiking options are not only exciting but genuinely extensive, while archery, diving and even surfing all get a look-in too. Bored in the Borders? Chance would be a fine thing.

The Borders region has seen more than its share of bloodshed over the centuries. Indeed, its proximity to the neighbours down south means there’s arguably nowhere in Scotland that has witnessed more battles and upheavals. But its tale begins way back in prehistoric times, with roundhouses and stone circles testament to a population that dates to at least the Iron Age.

Later came the Romans, who spent time in the area before building Hadrian’s Wall, leaving a string of camps behind (most obviously Trimontium, a fort complex near Melrose). During the Dark Ages, meanwhile, the region spent a while temporarily incorporated into the kingdom of Northumbria, before settling into a period where Christianity held sway – the Borders Abbeys still act as a reminder of this time.

Things took a more macabre turn when the armies of King Edward I of England arrived in 1296, massacring almost half the Borders’ population in a bid to subjugate Scotland. There followed three centuries of turbulent fighting – sometimes occasional, sometimes unremitting – between the two nations, finding a culmination of sorts when, in 1603, King James VI of Scotland also became King James I of England.

Despite this, tensions and divisions rumbled on, although by the 19th century a form of peace and prosperity had arrived, thanks to the region’s fast-growing textile industry. Many mills from the period still stand today.

Walks, Nature & Wildlife

St Cuthbert’s Way 

This glorious, border-hopping walking trail leads east for 62.5 miles (or a nice round 100km) from the Borders town of Melrose – where St Cuthbert joined a monastery in around 650AD – to Northumberland’s Holy Island, where he’s buried. To call it a mere pilgrimage route, however, would be to overlook the splendid shifting landscapes along the way: quiet woods, undulating countryside and a rampantly scenic coastline. 

Eildon Hills 
Melrose 

Although technically a single hill, the three conical peaks that make up this volcanic behemoth mean it usually gets pluralised to become ‘the Eildons’ or ‘Eildon Hills’. Shrouded in folklore and looming high above Melrose – from where the hills can be reached on a steep but spectacular hike – the tallest of the summits reaches some 422 metres. 

St Mary’s Loch 

Between Moffat and Selkirk At more than three miles long and over half a mile wide, St Mary’s Loch is the largest natural loch in the Borders – and reportedly the coldest in Scotland. It’s also in the running for being one of the most enticing, being ringed by gentle hills and brimming with different activities, from sailing and cycling to fishing and watersports. The Southern Upland Way passes along the loch’s south side. 

St Abbs Head Nature Reserve and Lighthouse 

In the breeding months of late spring and summer, the sheer cliffs at this coastal reserve come alive with feathered colonies of guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes and fulmars. The sight of tens of thousands of seabirds is a memorable one, but it’s not the only reason to come calling: seasonal wildflowers are rampant on the nearby grasslands, and the inland Mire Loch is prime territory for butterflies and damselflies.

Carrifran Wildwood 
Moffat Hills 

Originally gouged into being by glaciers, the ruggedly beautiful Carrifran occupies a 1,600-acre valley in the Moffat Hills – and is today witnessing something special. A group of local friends have joined together to transform the valley back into the wild, largely wooded place it would have been 6,000 years ago. Ecological restoration has become a buzzword in recent times, but this is the real deal. 

Coldingham Bay 
Berwickshire 

A few short miles north of Eyemouth lies this picturesque bay, home to one of the best beaches in Berwickshire. Sheltered, spacious and gently curved, the golden crescent of sand still has a deeply traditional feel, with a row of old-fashioned beach huts and plenty of opportunity for rock-pooling. 

Berwickshire Coastal Path 

This superb 30-mile hiking path worms its way along the clifftops of the Berwickshire coast, passing castles, sea stacks, nature reserves and fishing villages. And just as enticingly for serious walkers, the northern end of the trail links directly to the famous coast-to-coast route of the Southern Upland Way. 

Kailzie Gardens 
Near Peebles 

Making the scenic drive between Peebles and Traquair even more appealing is this rambling Tweed Valley attraction, with 15 acres of burn-threaded woodland (don’t miss the winter snowdrops) surrounding a spectacular walled garden, complete with rose beds, laburnum arches and a fine example of a classic Mackenzie & Moncur glasshouse. The grounds also provide prime osprey-breeding territory.

History

Melrose Abbey 
Melrose 

The imposing medieval shell of Melrose Abbey – Scotland’s first Cistercian monastery, and one of four great abbeys in the Borders – is still a glorious apparition of decorative carvings and momentous architecture. Amid the soaring magnificence of the ruins, a chunky, cylindrical memorial stone marks the spot where Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried. 

Jedburgh Abbey
Jedburgh 

It took more than seven decades to build this colossal 12th-century abbey, and although some 460 years have passed since it was disestablished, it remains a magnificent sight. Blending Romanesque and early Gothic styles, it still boasts a herb garden, as well as the remains of a refectory and dormitory. Its location, mere miles from the English border, has bequeathed it a long history of being targeted by invading armies. 

Kelso Abbey 
Kelso 

Dedicated on 3 May 1128, Kelso’s splendid abbey was once the grandest and wealthiest in the Borders. Today it stands as the most heavily ruined of the region’s four gigantic abbeys – thanks in part to the cannons of Henry VIII’s armies – but makes up for this with thick helpings of medieval atmosphere. 

Dryburgh Abbey 
Dryburgh 

This exquisite medieval ruin on the banks of the Tweed was once a thriving monastery, still retaining everything from its cloister to its chapter house. Come for the superb Gothic architecture – most evident in the strikingly designed transepts – and the fact that both Sir Walter Scott and First World War officer Field Marshal Haig are buried here.

Hermitage Castle 
Newcastleton, Hawick 

The Borders have a long history of Anglo-Scottish warfare – for fairly obvious reasons – and this glowering, foursquare fortress has changed hands several times since at least the 13th century. Tales of murder and treason still ooze from the chunky masonry. Now half-ruined, and standing on quiet moorland, it’s been described by author George MacDonald Fraser as ‘the guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain’. 

Floors Castle 
Kelso 

A colossus of ornate turrets and stately grandeur, Floors Castle stands as the largest inhabited house in Scotland, complete with Victorian walled garden and stunning staterooms. It was constructed in 1721, and three centuries later remains one of the most iconic buildings in the country, welcoming visitors while also being the official home of the Duke of Roxburghe and his family. Lucky bunch. 

Fast Castle 
Berwickshire 

‘Past Castle’ might be a more apt name for this evocative- but-crumbling clifftop fortress on the Berwickshire coast. First mentioned in 1333 – and still clinging moodily to a craggy stack overlooking the waves – it was once reachable only by drawbridge but can now be accessed by a permanent railed footbridge. It’s a short distance north of St Abb’s Head. 

Neidpath Train Tunnel & Castle 
Near Peebles 

Attractions don’t come much eerier than this abandoned half-mile railway tunnel, which closed in 1954 after seeing use during the Second World War. If you’re inclined to walk it, bring a torch – even in daytime. The medieval bulk of nearby Neidpath Castle, meanwhile, is a more romantic prospect, looking out from high above the River Tweed. It’s available for private hire and events. 

Paxton House 
Berwickshire 

Located a pebble’s throw north of the fast-flowing River Tweed – which here acts as the national border – this majestic Georgian house is still seen as one of the finest Palladian buildings in Britain. Eighteenth-century wealth is still apparent in its state rooms, gardens and pink sandstone exterior. 

Scott’s View 
Near Melrose 

Said to be the favoured resting point of the legendary Sir Walter Scott, who lived not far away on the outskirts of Galashiels (see Abbotsford listing), this hillside look- out provides all the scenic pomp you’d expect. It’s easily accessible by road – namely the B4604 – and the deep green view is dominated by the triple summits of the Eildon Hills. 

Mellerstain House 
Near Kelso 

Neoclassical architect Robert Adam designed many beautiful buildings, but he outdid himself with the mid- 18th-century Mellerstain House, which sits in 100 acres of mature parkland north of Kelso. Attractive on the exterior and nothing short of dazzling on the interior, the mansion is particularly renowned for its finely decorated library. A joy to explore. 

Manderston House 
Berwickshire 

An extravagant masterpiece of Edwardian craftmanship – complete with crystal chandeliers, marble floors and no less than 109 rooms – Manderston is today home to the 4th Lord Palmer, but remains a visitor attraction of rare appeal. The house is all stuccoed ceilings and silver-plated balustrades, while the beautiful gardens hold four formal terraces.

Borders Textile Towerhouse 
Hawick 

Borders knitwear and tweed are lauded not just across Scotland but internationally, and this cleverly curated attraction showcases some two centuries of local design work through fashion items, films, photos and more. Meanwhile, the stone-clad tower that houses the exhibition is a point of interest in itself – its 500-year history makes it the oldest building in Hawick. 

Mary Queen of Scots' Visitors Centre 
Jedburgh 

Few historical figures still generate quite so much interest as the ill-fated Mary Queen of Scots. This absorbing exhibition – set in a 16th-century towerhouse – does a fine job of telling her tragic life story through period objects, paintings, letters and textiles. Long before her grisly end, Mary herself spent a month here in Jedburgh in 1566. 

Smailholm Tower 
Near Kelso 

Balanced dramatically on a crag next to a lochan, this extraordinary, four-storey tower is another site associated with the local titan of Romantic literature, Sir Walter Scott. It was once the family residence of the writer’s ancestors, and Scott himself spent long periods here as a young boy. The fortified enclosure walls are two metres thick. 

Thirlestane Castle 
Near Lauder 

Baronial towers. Gilt-edged paintings. Grand staterooms shimmering with crystal. The 16th-century Thirlestane Castle is still a romping example of manicured opulence, pairing a no-expense-spared interior with neat parkland and a redesigned rose garden. It also hosts a Toy Museum, with toys from the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian eras. 

The Bear Gates of Traquair 
Traquair 

First things first. Don’t expect to stroll through them. Locked for more than 275 years – and only due to be opened if the Stuarts return to the throne – the bear-topped gates at Traquair House are said to have been closed for the final time when Bonnie Prince Charlie passed through them in 1745. The house itself, the oldest to be continually inhabited in Scotland, is a gem. 

Waterloo Monument 
Near Jedburgh 

A lofty Doric column quarried from local stone, the 150ft Waterloo Monument has stood on the skyline for some 200 years, having been commissioned by a local nobleman to commemorate the Duke of Wellington’s victory over Napoleon. It took two attempts to build – the first collapsed in 1815 ‘with a tremendous crash’ – but the views from its base today are staggering. 

Peel towers 
Various 

Scattered across the Borders region are these fortified medieval towerhouses, designed as hard-to-breach structures that also doubled as watchtowers. The aforementioned Smailholm Tower is a fine example. More than 25 were built in the 1430s alone. 

Fatlips Castle 
Near Jedburgh 

A rock-solid landmark occupying the heights of Minto Crags for almost half a millennium, this pleasingly named towerhouse – another Peel tower – affords a billowing panorama across the Borders countryside. Why the name? Theories abound, but one suggests that the males of the Turnbull clan, formerly resident here, had a habit of greeting female guests with overeager kisses.

Traquair House 
Traquair 

Home to the aforementioned Bear Gates – bolted shut indefinitely – Traquair is also Scotland’s oldest inhabited house, and a mighty important one to boot. Some 27 Scottish kings and queens passed through its doors after its construction in the early 1100s (it was originally a royal hunting lodge) and it still brims with tales of the past. The excellent Traquair House Brewery, dating back to the 1700s, is still based on site. 

Hume Castle 
Near 

Kelso Almost wherever you travel in the regions, the atmospheric, hill-perched ruins just keep on coming. Hume Castle stands on the skyline like some gap-toothed monument, its crenellated fortifications hinting at a past that saw it become one of the most important defensive outposts in the Eastern Borders. Having been destroyed in the past, much of the stonework has been restored

Eyemouth and Gunsgreen House 
Berwickshire 

The natural harbour at Eyemouth has a fishing heritage dating back at least seven centuries, and the little town was once a thriving hub for hauls of haddock and herring. Today it’s still a colourful, enjoyable place to spend time, with particular mention going to Gunsgreen House, which long had a starring role in Eyemouth’s alcohol-soaked past as a smugglers’ haven. 

Abbotsford the home of Sir Walter Scott 
Near Galashiels 

Sir Walter Scott might have been born in Edinburgh, but his writings and interests were largely shaped by his years in the Borders. Abbotsford was remodelled as Scott’s residence between 1817 and 1825, when the novelist was already a rich man, and the result is a show-stopping Gothic mansion that gives visitors real insight into his life. 

Jedburgh Castle Jail & Museum 
Jedburgh 

In the 1820s, this solid Jedburgh stronghold was a prison, and a visit today gives the chance to wander the original cell blocks, while learning more about the inglorious pasts of specific inmates and keeping a wary eye out for the resident ghosts. The prison, which is less harsh in appearance than you might expect, makes for a fascinating tour. 

Hawick Museum 
Hawick 

Based in an old bay-windowed mansion in Wilton Lodge Park, this enjoyable, free-to-enter museum has part of Hawick’s story for more than a century. Exhibits include dedicated sections on local motorbike champions Jimmy Guthrie and Steve Hislop, as well as displays on subjects as diverse as Ancient Egypt and the war years.

Sir Walter Scott's Courtroom
Selkirk

There was more to Sir Walter Scott than swirling prose.The prolific writer also spent the best part of three decadesas Sherriff of Selkirkshire, so this town courtroom, datingfrom 1804, saw him dispense justice to no end of waywardlocals. Displays also tell the tale of Scott’s relationship withthe area.

Halliwell’s House Museum
Selkirk

You’ll feel within touching distance of the 18th centuryat this days-of-yore dwelling on an old cobbled closein Selkirk. A carefully reconstructed ironmongers shopoccupies the ground floor, while other displays focus onthe town’s industrial past, and the historical traditions andfestivals that still have root in the area.

Activities

Great Polish Map of Scotland 
Near Peebles 

Set in the grounds of the suitably impressive Barony Castle, this remarkable relief map of Scotland was created over the course of six summers. Made of carved concrete, it measures an incredible 40 metres by 50 metres – yes, you read that right – and was the brainchild of a Polish war veteran. The castle has a long association with the Eastern European country, with Polish officers training here in the 1940s. 

The Borders Distillery 
Hawick 

When it opened its doors in 2018 – breathing potent new life into a converted electric works – the Borders Distillery became the first whisky distillery in the Borders since way back in 1837. It’s been making up for lost time by producing a widely lauded range of whiskies, as well its own gin and vodka. Group tours can be pre-booked. Beirhope Alpacas Cheviot Hills Question. What’s fluffy, has four legs, and makes a Cheviot Hills walk unforgettable? The answer is plain at this charming Borders attraction, which offers three- hour hikes, two-hour treks and one-hour strolls with its resident alpacas. All walks are guided and include historical overviews of this stunning region. For those who’d rather not stride into the hills, there’s also a more sedentary Meet- A-Paca option. 

Traquair House 
Maze 

Traquair Scotland’s largest hedge maze – a glee-inducing labyrinth dating back to 1981 – can be found at Traquair House. Unusually there are no dead ends, and intrepid young explorers need to visit four ‘sub-centres’ before reaching the heart of the maze. Things get especially exuberant at Easter, when thousands of Mini Eggs are left out. 

Bemersyde Estate 
Salmon 

Fishing Near Melrose Where the Tweed flows prettily through woodland beneath the Eildon Hills, you’ll find a secluded, mile-long stretch of prime salmon fishing territory. Six rods are let on a daily basis, and if you really want to make a stay of it, it’s possible to rent out the estate’s historic Bemersyde House at the same time. 

Heart of Hawick 
Hawick 

It’s not often you encounter an entertainment venue with a 14 foot-high Victorian waterwheel. This splendid theatre- cum-cinema – set in a converted spinning mill – has an 111- seat auditorium and hosts everything from baby-friendly film screenings to live streams of Royal Shakespeare Company productions. There’s also a good small café

Bowhill House 
Near Selkirk 

This grand country pile sits in glorious Borders scenery – complete with shimmering loch – and holds particular appeal for younger visitors, who can get their knees dirty at the dedicated Adventure Playground. As well as zipwires, a rope bridge and a wooden fort, there are numerous slides and swings to keep the kids in clover. 

Harestanes Countryside Visitor Centre 
Near Jedburgh 

Kids (and kids-at-heart) are well catered for at this much- loved attraction, which has an extensive play park, a good café and a web of walking trails leading into the surrounding countryside. The play park is notable for being highly accessible – it has a ‘sensory boardwalk’ and the Borders’ only wheelchair-friendly swings. The centre also sits on the St Cuthbert’s Way walking trail. 

Neth Hill Border Collies 
Moorfoot Hills 

The clue’s in the name. Border collies – sheep-herders par excellence and a hugely intelligent breed – have their roots here in the hilly Anglo-Scottish border region, and trainer Julie Hill knows exactly how to get the best from these tireless, athletic dogs. Championing the ‘Natural Way’ method, she gives demonstrations at her farm in the Moorfoot Hills. 

Coldstream Museum 
Coldstream 

This is where to come to delve into the storied past of the Coldstream region, in a building that was once the HQ of General George Monck, who was instrumental in restoring Charles II to the throne. As you’d expect, the museum grants plenty of space to the famous Coldstream Guards, still the British Army’s oldest continuously serving regiment.

Art & Culture

Number Four Art Gallery 
St Abbs 

This gem of a gallery has been drawing in discerning buyers and browsers since 2006, when it was established by artist Jenny Brook Martin. Its focus is on showcasing original and contemporary arts and crafts, with an admirable emphasis on works that are affordable. Expect everything from ceramics and paintings to glass and designer jewellery. 

White Fox Gallery 
Coldstream 

Run by a painter-photographer couple and showcasing beautiful art and design pieces from the Borders and beyond, this Coldstream gallery has proved so popular since its opening in 2013 that it now sits in larger premises on the high street. Fittingly for this part of the country, there’s a thematic emphasis on landscape and the natural world. 

Kinsman-Blake Gallery 
Smailholm 

This family-run gallery and working studio in the little village of Smailholm, near Kelso, covers everything from woodwork, jewellery and ceramics to screen prints, paintings and sculpture. Four members of the enviably talented Kinsman- Blake family contribute pieces to the gallery. 

The Great Tapestry of Scotland 
Galashiels 

The brainchild of writer Alexander McCall Smith, this colossal, 160-panel tapestry recounts some 420 million years of Scottish history, and now has a permanent home in Galashiels. More than 1,000 stitchers (and around 300 miles of thread) contributed to the final work, making it one of the largest community arts projects in the world. Open since mid-2021, the tapestry has already been designated a five-star visitor attraction. It’s a thing to behold, and well worth your time. 

Jim Clark Motorsport Museum 
Duns 

In the words of Formula One legend Juan Manuel Fangio, Scotland’s own Jim Clark was “the greatest racing driver ever”. This is no idle claim: among many other honours, Clark won two F1 world championships, the Indianapolis 500, and even found time to chalk up a podium finish at the Le Mans 24 hour race. This museum, which combines authentic race cars and priceless memorabilia with archive footage, tells his remarkable tale. It was opened by another track star, Sir Jackie Stewart, in 2019.

Burnside Gallery 
Selkirk 

This bright spot in the market square was started by painter and graphic designer Charly Murray and photographer- picture framer Javier Ternero. It highlights a range of original artworks, from illustrations to photography, all at accessible price points. Exhibitions rotate regularly to keep things fresh, and the on-site framing service uses oak, ash, or walnut for that personalised finish. 

The Hugo Burge Foundation 
Duns 

Established in 2024, this forward-thinking charity champions arts, crafts, and creative industries across the UK. Its grants, apprenticeships, and residencies help emerging and established talent thrive, while free or low- cost studios offer space to experiment. Visitors can drop by the walled garden, glasshouses, and workshops, where traditional crafts like furniture-making and silversmithing flourish. Regular events and courses welcome the public to engage with and learn from the artists based here.

Eat, Drink & Shop

There’s a strong independent feel to the region’s leading restaurants, pubs and shops, resulting in somewhere with serious gastro credentials and a whole host of appealing places in which to grab a coffee, settle down with a pint, or browse the shelves.

The Caddy Mann 
Jedburgh 

A highly respected restaurant with a string of accolades to its name – including being chosen as the UK’s best game restaurant – the Caddy Mann is a family-run affair that puts as much love into its coffee and home-bakes as it does into its lunch and dinner menus. The slow-baked Caddy Mann lamb and the locally sourced Game Pie are both popular dishes. 

Provender 
Melrose 

Loosen your belt buckle. This Michelin-recommended, family-run restaurant has been lauded by publications as diverse as The Scotsman and the LA Times, on the strength of a menu that champions local produce while combining “contemporary Scottish, British and French cooking” – expect anything from pan-roasted venison loin to wild mushroom tartlets. Chef Christian Edwardson is a local who learned his trade under the legendary Pierre Koffmann in London. 

Monte Cassino 
Melrose 

No blackjack tables or roulette wheels here. This traditional Italian restaurant is one of Melrose’s most reliable culinary offerings, with Naples-born chef Antonio Caterino serving up dishes such as Pasta Alessa (with eight-hour slow- braised lamb) alongside the usual Italian classics. The pizza – predictably, given Caterino’s Neapolitan roots – is excellent.

Ochiltree’s 
near Melrose 

Set in Sir Walter Scott’s old home of Abbotsford – and named after a character from his 1816 novel The Antiquary – this modern daytime café gives broad views across the grounds and serves a range of breakfast rolls and lunchtime options, including quiche, soup and the obligatory cakes and scones. There’s a kids menu too. 

Twelve Triangles 
Melrose 

This Melrose outpost of popular Edinburgh bakery Twelve Triangles takes its bread seriously. Think slow-fermented sourdough with no additives or improvers, made by hand using UK-milled flour. Its pastries are the real deal, with all custards, jams and pie fillings made daily by the team of bakers. The coffee’s good, too. 

The Allanton Inn 
Allanton 

A family-run pub sitting just six miles from the English border in the conservation village of Allanton, this old coaching inn has scooped various awards in recent years, for both its food and drink. Expect everything from oatmeal-coated haggis cannonballs to local estate venison salami, complemented by a cracking selection of real ales and fine wines. 

The Hoebridge 
Gattonside 

It’s now been a decade since Kyle Tidd and his chef-husband Hamish Carruthers opened The Hoebridge in Gattonside – a village just north of Melrose – and its focus on seasonal menus and fresh, local produce remains unwavering. The cooking’s excellent, and a bar, conservatory area and garden add to the charm. It’s open for dinner only, and closed from Sunday to Tuesday. 

The Black Bull Hotel 
Lauder 

Set in a refurbished 18th century coaching inn in the former royal burgh of Lauder, within easy reach of Edinburgh, the Black Bull puts Scottish ingredients to the fore. Locally reared meats and seasonal game are on the menu, and there’s the choice of eating in the bar, the bistro or the wonderfully named Stroppy Cow restaurant. 

Three Hills Coffee 
Selkirk 

A brilliant little coffee shop on Selkirk’s High Street, where the coffee itself – roasted at its dedicated Borders roastery – takes centre stage. It’s a welcoming space in which to while away some time, aided by a simple but strong food offering, with scones, sweet treats, salads and more

Shop

The Mainstreet Trading Company 
Melrose 

Based in a premises that was once a Victorian grocery store then later an auction store, this characterful bookshop- cum-café-cum-deli has previously been voted Britain’s Best Small Shop, which tells you all need to know about its blend of local charm, independent spirit and dedication to quality. 

Hawico 
Hawick 

These days you’ll find Hawico outlets everywhere from St Moritz to Tokyo, so visiting the knitwear firm in its original hometown of Hawick is a chance to learn more about why the brand has become so renowned. The factory shop sells Hawico’s signature luxury cashmere at reduced prices, while the visitor centre gives insight into the manufacturing process. 

Lochcarron of Scotland Visitor Centre 
Selkirk 

Billing itself as the world’s largest manufacturer of tartan and founded back in 1892, Lochcarron still prides itself on its locally made textiles, all dyed, tailored, weaved and warped by skilled craftspeople. At this visitor centre, you can take a guided tour of its weaving mill, arrange a private fitting, or just browse its 500-plus Scottish tartans.

Hunters Quality Butchers & Deli 
Kelso 

Here’s a butchers’ shop with a difference. As well as the usual array of steaks and other cuts, you’ll find the adjacent Deli Next Door serving sausage rolls, scotch eggs and all manner of quality lunch options, with due reverence given to cheeses, breads, desserts and wines. 

Haus & Co 
Innerleithen 

If elegant, stylish interior design floats your (Viking) boat, this Scandinavian lifestyle store won’t disappoint. Stocking everything from soaps, vases and textiles to candle- holders, ceramic plates and champagne glasses, it’s as fine a reason as any to visit Innerleithen in the Tweed Valley. 

The Spotty Dog 
Lauder 

Somewhere to set your tail wagging. Lauder’s Spotty Dog is a family-run deli serving up the good things in life – freshly brewed coffee, hand-filled rolls, artisan chutneys, premium spirits and a superb selection of cheeses, among other goodies. If you’ve got the appetite, they even do multi-tiered cheese celebration cakes. 

The Naked Sourdough 
Kelso 

Born out of the 2020 lockdown, this Kelso sourdough bakery has built up a weighty reputation in the intervening years – and for good reason. Its organic sourdough loaves and handcrafted pastries are award-winning, with savoury and sweet options alongside quality coffee. Take heed: the sourdough often sells out. Dōr. 

Lifestyle 
Kelso 

Straddling the worlds of lifestyle and coffee (and why not?), Dōr sits on a cobbled street in Kelso and is the kind of independent store it’s a joy to stumble across. Not only does it showcase clothing and homeware from contemporary makers and designers, it also prizes sustainability and serves a first-rate flat white. 

20 Storey 
Kelso Stocking books, stationery, art supplies, homeware, cards and more – all of it eminently appealing – the welcoming 20 Storey was recently named one of the dozen best independent bookshops in the UK by The Times. Well worth a lengthy detour if you’re visiting Kelso.

Stay

Towns like Melrose and Kelso are well accustomed to discerning visitors, meaning a strong spread of boutique hotels, many of them offering history as well as hospitality.

The Townhouse Hotel 
Melrose 

Occupying a handsome whitewashed house on Melrose’s Market Square is this quality boutique hotel, with 11 en suite rooms. The building itself was once the home of 19th century political reformer Catherine Helen Spence – a commemorative plaque is still affixed outside – but these days it’s known for its stylish rooms, its food (there’s both a brasserie and a more formal restaurant) and its extensive wine cellar. 

The Kings Arms Hotel 
Melrose 

The Kings Arms is another small but well-formed Melrose hotel, with 10 guest rooms and a plum location on the town’s high street. The building dates back to 1793, although the menu – with decent veggie options alongside pub standards – is an up-to-date affair. 

Burts Hotel 
Melrose 

There’s a rich sense of history at this listed 18th-century hotel on Market Square in Melrose, where you’ll find 20 en suite rooms, an award-winning restaurant and – for those evenings that ramble pleasurably across the hours – a range of some 90 whiskies. The hotel has been owned and operated by the same family for around four decades.

The Buccleuch Arms 
St Boswells 

Four times (and counting) named Scottish Inn of the Year – and awarded Community Hotel of the Year in the pandemic – the Buccleuch Arms began its life in 1836 as a hunting lodge, and still retains ample period charms. Nineteen comfortable guestrooms are complemented by a large beer garden and the Blue Coo Bistro & Bar, where the menu showcases seasonal local fare. 

Schloss Roxburghe 
Near Kelso 

The kind of luxury hotel that begs to be lingered in – ideally next to an open fire, with a premium single malt in hand – this upscale country house offers everything from fine dining and spa treatments to fly-fishing and clay-shooting. An 18-hole golf course, designed by the renowned Dave Thomas, only adds to its standing. 

Dod Mill 
Near Lauder 

Close to Edinburgh on the map but a world away in setting, this cluster of treehouse cabins and modern, rustic holiday cottages is set in the grounds of an 18th-century water mill. The Bothy, which sleeps up to 4 in a barn conversion, is a highlight. Lauder is just a few miles away. 

Alpnhaus Singdean 

Just a couple of miles north of the border, this luxury, hand-built, off-grid Alpine chalet sleeps two on a wildlife- rich hillside, complete with a wood-fired hot tub. Dogs are welcome too. What’s not to love? Barns Tower Neidpath Castle Getaways don’t come much more atmospheric than this rose-hued 15th-century tower, its beamed ceilings, open fire and rolltop bath all set in the grounds of Neidpath Castle, near the banks of the River Tweed. It sleeps two – with a pull-out bed in the sitting room able to accommodate two more. 

Riverside Cabin 
Ettrickbridge 

A secluded retreat overlooking Ettrick Water – and sitting within wandering distance of the local pub – this prettily decorated cabin sleeps two in a king-size bed, as well as twin singles for families, providing a perfect spot for country walks, wildlife-spotting and escaping the daily grind. 

Eildon 
Melrose 

Set under the iconic Eildon Hills on the outskirts of Melrose, this is a collection of six holiday cottages and two luxury log cabins. Stealing the show are the eco-built log cabins, which have turf roofs, hot tubs and decking areas, and in 2021 were named the Best Green Holiday Home in Europe.