The Paps of Jura above the moor and the Sound of Islay.
The guide

Jura. Isle of Jura guide

One road, three Paps, a whisky distillery in the only village and several thousand red deer.

A Hidden Scotland guideThe Paps of Jura above the moor and the Sound of Islay.

The four parts of Jura

A map of the island in relief, with its towns and villages and its four partsPort AskaigTayvallichFeolinCraighouseKnockromeLaggTarbertArdlussaKinuachdrachdPaps of JuraLoch TarbertSound of JuraCorryvreckan

One single-track road runs up the east coast of Jura, and the rest is left to the deer. Around 200 people live here among more than 7,000 red deer, most of them in Craighouse, the island's one village, with its distillery, hotel and shop gathered on Small Isles Bay. The three Paps rise behind, their pale tops often lost in cloud, and Loch Tarbert almost cuts the island in two. Further north the road reaches Ardlussa, where gin is made in the old stables, and the quiet bay at Inverlussa. It takes two ferries to get here, by way of Islay, and that's part of the charm. Come for whisky, an empty beach and a stag on the skyline, and take your time.

Feolin and Ardfin

Feolin and the south

The little ferry from Islay lands at Feolin, where the island's one road begins. It follows the shore of the Sound of Islay round the south coast, past the tall standing stone of Camus an Staca on its slope above the water, with the Paps filling the view behind.

The standing stone of Camus an Staca on a slope of rust-coloured grass, the sea and hills beyond.Jura's single road following the shore of the Sound of Islay below brown moorland, from the air.One of the Paps of Jura in low sunlight and haze across the Sound of Islay.
Craighouse, Keils and Knockrome

Craighouse and Small Isles Bay

Craighouse is the island's one village, strung along a sheltered bay with the distillery at its centre and the hotel, the shop and the Antlers beside it. A rum distillery, a craft shop and a photographer's gallery share the Pier Garage, and Corran Sands curves round the head of the bay to the north.

Craighouse and its bay from above, moorland hills behind.Craighouse across the bay at low tide, white houses reflected in the water.The sweep of Corran Sands and Small Isles Bay, the hills of Jura behind.
Lagg and Tarbert

The Paps and Loch Tarbert

The three Paps stand over the middle of the island, steep quartzite hills climbed by rough routes with no fixed path. Beyond them Loch Tarbert reaches in from the west coast and almost cuts Jura in two, and red deer are rarely out of sight from the road.

Loch Tarbert from above, dark water winding between brown moor and rocky islets.The Paps of Jura in the distance beyond a sweep of tawny moor grass.A red deer stag in russet grass, looking at the camera.
Ardlussa, Inverlussa and Kinuachdrachd

Ardlussa and the north

The road narrows as it runs north to Ardlussa, where Lussa Gin is made in the old stables from plants grown and gathered on the island. Inverlussa has a sandy bay at the mouth of its river, and beyond the road end a track leads on towards the Gulf of Corryvreckan.

The white cottages of Inverlussa along the shore where the river meets the bay.The whitewashed stable buildings of Lussa Gin at Ardlussa.A red deer stag on a green field above the sea on Jura.
Places to visit.

Places to visit.

The village of Craighouse on its bay, a prehistoric standing stone above the Sound of Islay, the farmhouse where Orwell wrote Nineteen Eighty-Four and a lighthouse alone on its reef.

Hills, beaches and the water.

Hills, beaches and the water.

The three Paps, a long sweep of pale sand at Corran, the sea loch that almost cuts the island in two and the whirlpool of Corryvreckan off the northern tip.

Jura in pictures.

Craighouse along the shore of its bay, from the air.
Craighouse along the shore of its bay, from the air.
The Jura Distillery and the Jura Hotel at Craighouse from the air.
The Jura Distillery and the Jura Hotel at Craighouse from the air.
The Paps of Jura in cloud beyond moorland and a lone cottage, from the air.
The Paps of Jura in cloud beyond moorland and a lone cottage, from the air.
The dark timber shed of Camella Crafts at the Pier Garage, Craighouse.
The dark timber shed of Camella Crafts at the Pier Garage, Craighouse.
The standing stone of Camus an Staca in bracken with forestry behind.
The standing stone of Camus an Staca in bracken with forestry behind.
The turquoise roller door of Deer Island Distillers at the Pier Garage.
The turquoise roller door of Deer Island Distillers at the Pier Garage.
The bay at Inverlussa at low tide, rocks and weed on the sand, hills beyond.
The bay at Inverlussa at low tide, rocks and weed on the sand, hills beyond.
A crate of foraged botanicals in a wheelbarrow outside Lussa Gin.
A crate of foraged botanicals in a wheelbarrow outside Lussa Gin.

Getting here and around.

By ferry

The usual way is by Islay. The ferry from Kennacraig on Kintyre to Port Askaig takes about two hours. From there the small Jura ferry crosses the Sound of Islay to Feolin in a few minutes, with room for cars.

In summer a passenger ferry also runs from Tayvallich on the mainland straight to Craighouse. It carries bikes but not cars, and it's wise to book.

By road

From Feolin the island's one road runs eight miles to Craighouse and on up the east coast to Ardlussa.

It is single-track with passing places, and deer wander across it, so take it slowly.

Getting around

A car or a bike is the way to see the island. A local bus runs between Feolin, Craighouse and the north, so check its timetable before relying on it.

There is one hotel, one cafe and one shop, so plan ahead and book before you travel.

Craighouse is the place to base yourself. The Jura Hotel is the island's only hotel, with a field for tents in front, and the shop, the cafe and the distillery are all a short walk away. There are self-catering cottages around the village and further up the island.

Two or three days is right. That gives time for Craighouse and its distillery, a drive north to Ardlussa and Inverlussa, a walk on Corran Sands and a day in the hills. A day trip from Islay is possible, but it will feel rushed.

Mild and changeable, as it is across the Inner Hebrides. Summer is the easy season, though the midges come out on still evenings. Winter brings gales, sideways rain and the odd cancelled ferry, so leave some slack in your plans.

Yes, but treat them as a serious hill day. The three Paps are steep, covered in loose quartzite scree and have no fixed path, and the highest is 785 metres. Go in clear weather with a map, good boots and plenty of time.

Almost anywhere. More than 7,000 red deer live on Jura and they are often beside the road, especially early and late in the day. Drive slowly, and keep your distance from the stags during the autumn rut.

Yes, for families who like the outdoors. Corran Sands is sheltered and shallow, Inverlussa has a sandy bay at the river mouth, and the Antlers in Craighouse does ice cream. There is one shop, so bring what you need.

Photographs by Arthur Marris and dea summer via Google