Westside with Kids – Gardens, Waterfall and Woodland
A day by car, from Lerwick and back.
Written by Laurie Goodlad
The West Mainland is arguably the least explored of all Shetland’s regions, yet it has some of the most beautiful landscapes and walks. The area is rugged and exposed, yet gentle and rolling. It’s a place of intrigue and mystery where a significant Neolithic population lived thousands of years ago, settling the land and farming the soil.
Shaped by the mighty North Atlantic and the regular winter storms that assault Shetland’s western boundary, the coastline has been moulded, altered and scarred by the sheer power of this aggressive temptress, creating some incredible coastal walks.
Inland, the gently rolling hills of the West Mainland are thronged with some of the most notable and extensive archaeological remains on the islands, dating back to the Neolithic, some 4-5,000 years ago, including the Stanydale Temple, a megalithic structure, tucked into the landscape that continues to baffle archaeologists to this day.
Referred to simply as the ‘Westside’, Shetland’s West Mainland begins as you pass over the Weisdale Hill towards Tresta and Bixter and is represented on the map as the ‘left-arm’ of the islands, bulging out from the long, narrow central spine into the North Atlantic.
Although you’re likely to want to spend more time exploring the extensive West Mainland, this one-day itinerary will give a few of the highlights and act as a springboard to explore more.
Shetland’s West Mainland is a relatively large area, including the communities of Aith (Eid), Walls (Waas), Sandness and Skeld. It also includes the outlying islands of Foula, 25 miles west of Shetland, Papa Stour, a stone’s throw from Sandness across the treacherous Papa Sound, and Vaila, a small island off Walls with a population of two.
We will explore the Mainland only for this itinerary – saving the islands for another itinerary and another day!
You may wish to base yourself in the West Mainland to enjoy the walking, wildlife and varied landscapes of this corner of Shetland. The West Mainland feels quieter, and it’s less densely populated and slightly off the main tourist trails of the north and south. There are also fewer ‘attractions’ – and by attractions, I mean visitor centres and museums. You’ll find this is a place for quiet contemplation, hiking, and just enjoying the scenery.
The Taing, Reawick, sits at the head of the beautiful Reawick Beach. Listen, from your bed, as the sea gently washes over the orange sands. The Taing is a beautifully curated self-catering cottage set in the rural idyll of Shetland’s West Mainland.
Westshore is in the West Mainland. This unique architect-designed self-catering cottage ties old and new together perfectly, while the property itself enjoys spectacular sea views.
Despite being quite a large area, the West Mainland has few eating options. Thankfully, those that are available are excellent!
The Original Cake Fridge & Tearoom – near Aith, pick up a picnic at the Cake Fridge, or sit in the cafe inside the converted traditional crofthouse.
Cafe in the Church – held in the Walls kirk every Friday, serving delicious homemade soup and sweets.
Bonhoga Cafe – be sure to check out the exhibition space in the gallery upstairs in this converted watermill.
Honesty Boxes & Cake Fridges – including the Original Cake Fridge near Aith, you’ll find several roadside honesty boxes and fridges selling cakes and bakes, farm produce and eggs. Simply make your selection and leave the correct money in the tin provided. The Mussel box selling shellfish at Tresta and the Sand Honesty Box are a few to look out for.
Shops – you may want to pick up a picnic from Eid Community Coop, Walls Shop or Bixter Shop.
Top tip: If you’re planning to visit the West Mainland on a Sunday, be sure to check the What’s On guide in the weekly Shetland Times newspaper or check roadside signs advertising Sunday Teas in any one of the local public halls. Sunday Teas are quintessentially Shetland. Basically, a team of volunteers will open the hall for an afternoon selling tea, coffee, cakes, bakes, sandwiches, soup. For a nominal fee, visitors can tuck into an all you can eat buffet-style spread with the best local home-baking and hospitality.
Planning is key to making the most of your time in the West Mainland – make sure you factor in where you’ll be stopping for lunch, or ensure you bring a picnic with you. There are some fantastic walking options in this area, and you’ll find that most of them are quiet – even at the height of the tourist season.
Top tip: If you’re setting off from Lerwick in the morning, The Peerie Shop Cafe make fantastic picnic lunches that you can pre-book and collect once the cafe opens.
The following are a few suggestions for itineraries for your day, based on the activity level you expect and whether or not you are travelling with children.
Of the three, this is Laurie Goodlad's day for travelling with children, in her own words.
The West Mainland is a fantastic place to explore with children, with lots of open spaces and the freedom to roam. The following is a suggested itinerary for the day.
The route
Before you go
Book a picnic lunch from the Peerie Shop Cafe
The Peerie Shop Cafe on the Esplanade in Lerwick opens at 8am from Tuesday to Friday and at 9am on Saturday, and is shut on Sundays and Mondays: ring 01595 692817 the day before to ask for a picnic.
The day
Travelling with kids
1 hr 51 min at the wheelAbout 57 miles
Sand Gairdins and Sand beach
An attraction
Sand: Begin the day in Sand with a visit to the Sand Gairdins. To get to Sand, follow the A971 towards Walls and turn off (21 miles from Lerwick) towards Skeld onto the B9071. A few miles along the B9071, follow the road signs towards Sand. A few miles along, the road forks – bearing left, you will reach Da Gairdins, and a right turn will take you to the Sand beach and ruined Chapel of St Mary’s. As you drive in the road towards Sand, you’ll pass the Sand Cake Fridge, an honesty box selling cakes and bakes. Stop here and pick up a picnic before heading towards the Sand Gairdins. Da Gairdins in Sand is a 60-acre site with around one-third made up of maintained woodland, which is open to the public all year round. The woods and gardens were started in 1997, and its ambitious planting schemes benefit the environment and community alike. The gardens are free, but they welcome donations at the entrance gates. There are two sections to explore: the upper area has woodland walks and picnic benches, whereas the lower portion houses the large ponds, wildflower meadows and sunny lawns. The gardens create a haven for wildlife with the planting, ponds and wildflower meadows encouraging a whole host of different species. With a variety of woodland walks, thousands of trees, picnic areas, and three large ponds that, in spring, are teeming with frogs and tadpoles, there is no shortage of things to catch your eye in this quiet coastal retreat. From the Gairdins, visit the beach at Sand, a beautiful sandy expanse that is seldom busy. The beach has stunning uninterrupted views to the south. Beside the beach are the remains of St Mary’s Chapel and, within the graveyard, get the children to search for the ‘Pirate’s Grave’, an unnamed grave depicting a skull and crossbones. The area is dominated by the impressive Haa that overlooks the beach; this grand three-storey house was built by Sir Andrew Mitchell, a merchant from Scalloway. Haa houses can be seen around Shetland and were constructed by the landowning classes between the 17th and 19th centuries. If time allows before lunch, or if you’ve brought a picnic lunch, check out the Reawick Beach, a beautiful orange, sandy beach that is set right beside the road and is the perfect place to don a wetsuit and make a splash!
About 21 min by car
The Original Cake Fridge & Tearoom
Lunch: Either head to The Original Cake Fridge & Tearoom near Aith for lunch or head towards Aith after a picnic lunch on the beach. (Heading towards Sand, you will have passed the signs for Aith just after Bixter on the A971).
About 1 min by car
Burn of Lunklet
A walk
Burn of Lunklet: After lunch, grab a few cupcakes from the Cake Fridge and park half a mile down the road, where you’ll see signs for the Burn of Lunklet. The Burn of Lunklet is perhaps Shetland’s best-known burn and waterfall. Shetland is not known for its extensive waterways – there are no rivers in Shetland, just small streams that trace through the hills like tiny veins. There are a few reasons to do this walk – particularly if you have kids. Firstly, it’s only half a mile from the Original Cake Fridge & Tearoom, where you can pick up bribery snacks and refuel before you set off. Secondly, the access path is fantastic, meaning that it’s a relatively easy walk if you have mobility issues or small toddler legs. An off-road capable wheelchair can access the waterfall here. Lastly, the waterfall that plunges down the face of a sheer rock surrounded by the heathery hillsides is spectacular – particularly after a period of rain or when the heather is in purple flower at the end of summer.
About 6 min by car
Michaelswood
Michaelswood: By this stage, small legs will likely protest, and tiredness will threaten to cloud the skies. Michaelswood is the perfect place to end the day, particularly if you travel with under 12s. Michaelswood is about two miles from Lunklet within the village of Aith and is a community garden set up in memory of Michael Ferrie, a young musician from the community who died in 1996. The wooded area has a trail through trees with lots of points of interest, picnic areas, toys and a collection of dinosaurs. There are also swings and a pirate ship in the children’s play area. Top tip: If you’re still looking for action in the evening, the Dale of Walls Beach is a great spot to catch a sunset, and cars can park beside the beach, so there’s no strenuous walk for those tired young legs!
If it rains
Most of this day is out of doors, though the Burn of Lunklet is at its best after rain. In a downpour, the woods at Kergord, near Weisdale and just off the road home, give shelter. The Shetland Museum in Lerwick is free and indoors, usually open in summer from noon to 5pm on Monday and Sunday and from 10am to 5pm from Tuesday to Saturday.
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Photographs by The Cake Fridge, Mars Denique Victor Est and Islean Gibson via Google