
Tinkers’ Heart
A heart of white quartz stones set in an old road junction above Loch Fyne, the only permanent memorial to Scotland's Travellers, a scheduled monument since 2015.
Above the head of Loch Fyne, near Cairndow, a few white stones lie set into the old tarmac of a road junction that is now part of a field.
Look closer and they make a heart: twenty-five quartz pebbles around the edge and a twenty-sixth in the middle, the whole thing not quite two metres across.
This is the Tinkers' Heart, and it is the only known permanent memorial to Scotland's Travellers, the travelling people who have been part of the country's life for centuries. Nobody knows for certain who first set the stones, but the Travellers' own tradition holds it as a place for weddings, blessings and remembering, and families still come here.
In 2014 the Traveller and writer Jess Smith led a petition to protect it, and in July 2015 it became a scheduled monument. It lies where the old Strachur road met the road through Hell's Glen. Look at it from the edge, and leave the stones as you find them.

The heart lies in a field and can be seen at any time, free.
Please look without stepping on it.
- Where
- By the A815 near Cairndow, at the old junction with the Hell's Glen road.
- Protected
- A scheduled monument since 30 July 2015.
At the old junction of the A815 and the Hell's Glen road, the B839, near Cairndow at the head of Loch Fyne.
Fyne AlesA family farm brewery at the head of Loch Fyne, with a tap room, a courtyard beer garden and weekend tours.5 miles7 min by road
Beinn ImeThe highest of the Arrochar Alps, 1,012 metres above Loch Long, climbed from Succoth with rocky Beinn Narnain.6 miles7 min by road
Strachur Smiddy Museum and CraftsA village blacksmith's shop at Strachur, worked by four generations of Montgomerys and kept as a museum with a working forge.8 miles11 min by road
Inveraray CastleThe Duke of Argyll's castle along the loch.14 miles21 min by road
Rest and be ThankfulThe pass over to Loch Long.15 miles21 min by road
Places to stay near the memorial, and when each is next free.
Kabn- Sleeps 2
- In Cairndow
- Under a mile from the Tinkers' Heart
Red Squirrel Cottage- Sleeps 6
- In Argyll and Bute
- 6 miles from the Tinkers' Heart
Seal Cabin- Sleeps 2
- In Argyll and Bute
- 6 miles from the Tinkers' Heart
Uisge Bothy- Sleeps 2
- In Oban
- 19 miles from the Tinkers' Heart
Scotland, in print.
Every photograph commissioned, every word written by somebody who went. Printed twice a year, made in Scotland.
For further reading, before you go.
- Tinkers' HeartThe scheduled monument's record.ancientmonuments.ukAncient Monuments↗
- The Tinker's Heart storyThe Travellers and the heart.coast.scotCoast that Shaped the World↗
- The Tinkers' HeartFinding it by the road.atlasobscura.comAtlas Obscura↗
- LochgoilheadDown the Hell's Glen road.undiscoveredscotland.co.ukUndiscovered Scotland↗








