Westerwick and Sandness – Red Granite Cliffs and Sandy Beaches

The West Mainland is arguably the least explored of all Shetland’s regions, yet it has some of the most beautiful landscapes and walks. The area is rugged and exposed, yet gentle and rolling. It’s a place of intrigue and mystery where a significant Neolithic population lived thousands of years ago, settling the land and farming the soil.

Shaped by the mighty North Atlantic and the regular winter storms that assault Shetland’s western boundary, the coastline has been moulded, altered and scarred by the sheer power of this aggressive temptress, creating some incredible coastal walks.

Inland, the gently rolling hills of the West Mainland are thronged with some of the most notable and extensive archaeological remains on the islands, dating back to the Neolithic, some 4-5,000 years ago, including the Stanydale Temple, a megalithic structure, tucked into the landscape that continues to baffle archaeologists to this day.

Referred to simply as the ‘Westside’, Shetland’s West Mainland begins as you pass over the Weisdale Hill towards Tresta and Bixter and is represented on the map as the ‘left-arm’ of the islands, bulging out from the long, narrow central spine into the North Atlantic.

Although you’re likely to want to spend more time exploring the extensive West Mainland, this one-day itinerary will give a few of the highlights and act as a springboard to explore more.

Shetland’s West Mainland is a relatively large area, encompassing the Mainland area, including the communities of Aith (Eid), Walls (Waas), Sandness and Skeld. It also includes the outlying islands of Foula, 25 miles west of Shetland, Papa Stour, a stone’s throw from Sandness across the treacherous Papa Sound, and Vaila, a small island off Walls with a population of two.

We will explore the Mainland only for this itinerary – saving the islands for another itinerary and another day!

You may wish to base yourself in the West Mainland to enjoy the walking, wildlife and varied landscapes of this corner of Shetland. The West Mainland feels quieter, and it’s less densely populated and slightly off the main tourist trails of the north and south. There are also fewer ‘attractions’ – and by attractions, I mean visitor centres and museums, you’ll find this is a place for quiet contemplation, hiking, and just enjoying the breathtaking scenery.

The Taing, Reawick, sits at the head of the beautiful Reawick Beach. Listen, from your bed, as the sea gently washes over the orange sands. The Taing is a beautifully curated self-catering cottage set in the rural idyll of Shetland’s West Mainland.

Westshore is set in the heart of the West Mainland. This unique architect-designed self-catering cottage ties old and new together perfectly, while the property itself enjoys spectacular sea views.

Despite being quite a large area, the West Mainland has few eating options. Thankfully, those that are available are excellent!

The Original Cake Fridge & Tearoom – stop along Lynn at the Cake Fridge and pick up a picnic, or sit in the cafe inside the converted traditional crofthouse.

Cafe in the Church – held in the Walls kirk every Friday, serving delicious homemade soup and sweets.

Bonhoga Cafe – be sure to check out the exhibition space in the gallery upstairs in this converted watermill.

Honesty Boxes & Cake Fridges – including the Original Cake Fridge near Aith, you’ll find several roadside honesty boxes and fridges selling cakes and bakes, farm produce and eggs. Simply make your selection and leave the correct money in the tin provided. The Mussel box selling shellfish at Tresta and the Sand Honesty Box are a few to look out for.

Shops – you may want to pick up a picnic from Eid Community Coop, Walls Shop or Bixter Shop.

Top tip: If you’re planning to visit the West Mainland on a Sunday, be sure to check the What’s On guide in the weekly Shetland Times newspaper or check roadside signs advertising Sunday Teas in any one of the local public halls. Sunday Teas are quintessentially Shetland. Basically, a team of volunteers will open the hall for an afternoon selling tea, coffee, cakes, bakes, sandwiches, soup. For a nominal fee, visitors can tuck into an all you can eat buffet-style spread with the best local home-baking and hospitality.

Planning is key to making the most of your time in the West Mainland – make sure you factor in where you’ll be stopping for lunch, or ensure you bring a picnic with you. There are some fantastic walking options in this area, and you’ll find that most of them are quiet – even at the height of the tourist season.

Top tip: If you’re setting off from Lerwick in the morning, The Peerie Shop Cafe make fantastic picnic lunches that you can pre-book and collect anytime after 8 am.

The following are a few suggestions for itineraries for your day, based on the activity level you expect and whether or not you are travelling with children.

Of the three, this is Laurie Goodlad's day at Westerwick and Sandness, in her own words.

This itinerary has a couple of shorter walks – with all the wow factor and drama expected from an exposed Atlantic coastline. It also has a long – and very scenic – drive out to the most westerly point, Sandness, where you can take a stroll along the beaches of Melby and Norby, overlooking Papa Stour. There’s an option to visit the Sandness Wool Mill too, although it’s best to phone and pre-book.