Where to stay in Caithness
Lighthouse cottages and rooms by the sea
Words by Ben Lerwill
01 · Lybster
The Portland Hotel
Here’s a welcome refuge on a bleary day. The 22 en suite rooms at this family-run village hotel range from design-led singles to deluxe four-poster sanctuaries. There’s a good restaurant to linger in, as well as a gin and whisky bar, and the hotel’s location means it’s well accustomed to attracting North Coast 500 drivers and bikers.
02 · Halkirk
Ulbster Arms Hotel
A 19th-century bolthole on the banks of the River Thurso, this tradition-heavy hotel boasts log fires, premium doubles and an a la carte restaurant, although you may find it hard to drag yourself away from the wood-panelled Lounge Bar, complete with an original carved fireplace from a Dutch galleon. There are three lodges in the grounds, including one in a converted barn, so the accommodation options are numerous.
03 · Wick
Mackays Hotel
Famed for having the world’s smallest street on its doorstep, the family-owned Mackays Hotel is a notable draw in its own right. Rooms are smart, with a contemporary design, and there’s dog-friendly accommodation for those doing the North Coast 500 with their canine companions in tow. It’s also home to the No1 Bistro.
04 · John O’Groats
Seaview Hotel
The name lets you know what to expect from this whitewashed John O’Groats hotel, which counts a far-flung location and big panoramas as its chief selling points. It’s a friendly spot, and there’s a bar and restaurant to keep you well fuelled.
05 · Thurso
Station Hotel
Another that does what it says on the tin, this three-star hotel is located steps away from Thurso’s station, a stop on the Wick-to-Inverness line. Don’t expect anything fancy, but it’s well priced and occupies a handsome old period building with a neat white balcony.
06 · Near Thurso
Pennyland House
With belting views across to Orkney, this highly rated B&B has just six bedrooms – all named after the owner’s favourite golf courses – and sits a 10-minute walk outside of Thurso. The décor has real character and breakfast covers all the main bases, from porridge to a full Scottish plate.
07 · Near Thurso
Forss House Hotel
Tucked away in woodland on a bend of the River Forss, this country house hotel is the real deal. There’s a double AA-rosette restaurant – which makes good use of produce from nearby estates – and a choice of 14 countryside rooms, all with antique furnishings. Some rooms have rolltop baths and super king-size beds. Afternoon tea is served at weekends, complete with scones and bubbly, and the house bar has dozens of different single malts. What’s not to love?
08 · Thurso
The Marine
A former sailors’ pub reinvented as an upmarket B&B, The Marine has just three rooms – as well as a self-catering apartment next door – but wins plaudits for its bay views, its comfortable rooms, and a breakfast menu that includes locally smoked salmon and local free-range eggs.
09 · Dunnet Head
Dunnet Head Lighthouse
Keepers' cottages at the lighthouse
10 · Dunnet
House of the Northern Gate
A house for a group by Dunnet Head
Visit near House of the Northern Gate
Places to see and eat, nearest first
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