A weekend exploring Aberfeldy

Meet your local guide - Zanna Wilson

Zanna Wilson, award-winning artist and gallerist, was born in Portsmouth in 1978 to Scottish parents. She has spent her adult life living and working in Scotland, and is now based in rural Perthshire, where she maintains a studio and has run The Watermill Gallery since 2021. The gallery recently moved from its established home at the top of The Watermill Bookshop and Café to a new venue next door in The Old Mill. From this base, she travels widely across the country – most often west to the Scottish Isles, though the far north continues to draw her in. Zanna is deeply inspired by the unique light, texture and atmosphere of Scotland’s varied landscapes. This passion is vividly reflected in her work, which is recognised for its rich expressive energy and emotional depth.

How long have you lived in Aberfeldy, and what brought you here? 

Seventeen years. I moved in 2008 when I was expecting my first child, Hester, and my second daughter, Ursie, was also born here. My husband, Patrick, is from Aberfeldy, and my father-in-law, local academic Henry Steuart Fothringham, has lived here since he was 21. Scotland has always felt very familiar to me – my mother grew up in Sutherland – so Edinburgh was an obvious choice for university. I haven’t really left Scotland since 1997, apart from one year in Madrid, where I studied History of Art with Spanish. 

What is it that you particularly enjoy about living and working in this part of Scotland? 

I love that it is the heart of Scotland and the gateway to the Highlands; crossing the Highland Line at Dunkeld always feels special. It’s a brilliant base for adventures, from day trips to Edinburgh and Glasgow to road trips west. It’s also easy for friends to visit, with good rail and road connections. It’s rural but not remote, with plenty of local amenities and quick access to the wild. I especially enjoy the sense of community. Aberfeldy feels more like a village than a town – lockdown brought a new energy and motivation to pull together through Feldy Roo, a charity project delivering meals to the elderly and vulnerable. Its legacy lives on in the water fountain in the square and the Feldy Roo Park Run and fitness trail. We also have a community cycle repair shop, Draft and Flow, a new co-working space and a constant flow of fresh initiatives. 

Aberfeldy is keeping pace with the rapid growth and changes in Dunkeld, and it’s a joy to be part of. What advice would you give to anyone looking to explore the area? 

Having your own transport is very helpful if you want to make the most of the area’s many mini-adventures. Take time to explore local walks and try something water- based for a fresh perspective. I’m especially fond of kayaking or swimming, and if you need guidance, we have experts at Beyond Adventure, who cover everything from SUP to e-bikes, as well as Wee Adventures for children. For a truly immersive visit, sample the local food. We have excellent producers and restaurants, and just outside town, Little Trochry Farm grows a huge variety of salad and vegetables for its farm stand and pop-up events. 

Can you give us a rundown on what Aberfeldy is like as the seasons change, and in your opinion when is the best time to visit? 

Aberfeldy follows the rhythm of the seasons, and there is always plenty to do. Autumn and winter bring the Enchanted Forest at Loch Faskally and spectacular tree colours, best seen on a drive through Glen Lyon or a climb up Drummond Hill. There’s also a wonderfully cosy community feel – coffee by the wood-burning stove at Glen Lyon Coffee, a screening at The Birks Cinema, or the Reindeer Parade and Christmas Market (29 November). Even January and February have their charms, with a peaceful quiet not found at other times of year. Summer is full of outdoor adventures, from swimming and walking to Highland Games and local shows (see perthshirehighlandgames.com for the full list). My favourite months are June, when everything is fresh, the light lasts until after 10pm and there are few midges; or September, when we often enjoy a golden Indian summer, with spectacular sunsets and fields full of bales. 

When you fancy a getaway out of the city, where in Scotland do you like to spend time? 

I love visiting my family in Appin, which is about a two-hour drive away. I always feel myself unwinding along the 16-mile stretch by Loch Tay and through Glen Coe. Our traditional arrival involves a drink and a bowl of chips at The Pierhouse (though it’s best known for its superb fish and shellfish), before treasured time on or by Loch Linnhe and the nearby island of Lismore. I also highly recommend Tiree, which inspired many of the paintings in my 2025 exhibition, INSITU. e

ZANNA'S IDEAL WEEKEND IN ABERFELDY 

I’d suggest arriving on Thursday afternoon, stopping at Dunkeld for a glass of wine and perhaps dinner at Redwood, before heading to The Taybank for its weekly live music session – an excellent introduction. 

FRIDAY

Morning 

Start with a visit to The Watermill Bookshop and Café to pick out a new read, then head to Glen Lyon Coffee Roastery for coffee, pastries and a dose of community spirit. Afterwards, stroll up to The Birks of Aberfeldy from The Memorial Arch, soaking up the woods and waterfalls that once inspired Rabbie Burns.

Afternoon 

Take a walk by the River Tay. Either pick up a picnic from Piece and enjoy it en route, or head to Ailean Chraggan (known locally as the Chraggs) in Weem. You can walk directly via Wade’s Bridge and the avenue, or follow the river towards Kenmore, looping back through Weem meadow, Castle Menzies and the village. For a shorter option, wander through Aberfeldy Golf Course to Victoria Park, which also has a bowling green and tennis courts.

Evening 

A short drive takes you to Fortingall, a pretty village at the foot of Glen Lyon. See Europe’s oldest living yew tree before an early dinner at The Fortingall Hotel. Afterwards, enjoy a film or “Stage on Screen” performance at The Birks Cinema, or head to Pitlochry Festival Theatre for live drama.

SATURDAY

Morning 

Coffee and breakfast at Fika on The Square, followed by a wander around town. Don’t miss Ballintaggart Shop, Homer, Angus Ross’s Workshop and, of course, my gallery. We also have an excellent thrift shop and the Handam Refill Station, housed in the beautiful former Doigs clothing store. 

Afternoon 

Drive up Glen Lyon to Bridge of Balgie Tea Room (open March to October – do check) for lunch and a walk on the Meggernie Estate. It’s a great spot for foraging (look out for chanterelles) and wild swimming. 

Evening 

On the way back, stop in Kenmore. Wander along the beach at Loch Tay, take a bracing plunge or book The Hot Box sauna experience, then round off the evening with sundowners and pizza at The Ferryman’s Inn.

SUNDAY

Morning 

Visit the Farmer’s Market (10am–2pm, first Sunday of each month, April–November) before heading home. Stop in Grandtully – you can even walk the old railway line from Aberfeldy and bus back. However you arrive, don’t miss The Highland Chocolatier for real chocolate oranges and hot chocolate, then enjoy lunch at The Grandtully Hotel or Inn on the Tay. 

Afternoon 

One last stop: take a walk from The Hermitage to Pine Cone Point for your final gulps of Perthshire air, or spend some time in the pretty town of Dunkeld.

Plan your weekend with Zanna’s Top Picks

Eat ~ Daytime
Cow and Parrot
Monumental sandwiches; a BLT like no other, very good coffee.

Glen Lyon Coffee Roastery
Community vibes, excellent coffee and pastries, wood-burning stove and outside deck.

Eat ~ Evening
The Three Lemons
Excellent, friendly service; you’ll be warmly welcomed, looked after and remembered here.

Drink
Piece
Family-run bakery and gluten-free specialists (half my family is coeliac, so this is especially good news for us and others).

Ailean Chraggan
Especially good for the Sunday roast; a predictable, reliable menu and great for families.

The Grandtully Hotel
Go for the squid, stay for the Scottish seasonal dishes. The same team cater for my private view events, and they are always delicious.

Killiecrankie House
Modern Scottish fine dining, perfect for special occasions.

Uisge Bar and Restaurant, Station Road, Murthly
A short drive away, brilliant for families.

Errichel, Crieff Road
Panoramic views, coffee or a glass of wine (closes 4pm).

The Ferryman Inn, Kenmore
Lochside sundowners and firepits.

Dewar’s Aberfeldy Distillery
Tours, tastings, museum and café.

Inti, Dunkeld Street
The newest addition to town, serving great cocktails.

Explore / Walks

St Mary’s Church, Grandtully
A hidden gem with an unexpected painted ceiling dating back to the 1600s. Looked after by Historic Scotland, it is one of only two post-Reformation church ceilings still in its original setting.

Strathtay to Pitlochry
A popular, pretty section of the Rob Roy Way, starting at the golf course in Strathtay.

Camserny, Loch Farleyer and Weem Wood Circular
Great views with a high chance of spotting deer and other wildlife.

Queen’s View, Pitlochry
A little further afield, this iconic view was named after Queen Victoria’s visit in 1866. There’s also a visitor centre and café.

Relax

Taymouth Marina Spa, Kenmore
Book a session or exclusive hire of the HotBox, including outdoor hot pool, sauna, steam room and Loch Tay slide.

The Birks Cinema, Dunkeld Street
Find a cosy corner for a coffee or a glass of wine, then stay for a screening or a live music session.

Griffin Two Lochs Loop
Walk or cycle from the Griffin Forest car park. If you prefer gentle relaxation, head slowly into the trees for a spot of forest bathing. This place is otherworldly.

Charlotte Flower, Acharn
Relax and indulge in a chocolate-making and tasting workshop with a local chocolatier.

Shop

The Watermill Gallery, The Old Mill
A celebration of established and emerging artists, curated from an artist’s point of view. An eclectic, colourful mix with regular workshops and events.

Windows The Gift Shop, 14 Dunkeld Street
Great for gifts for all ages and occasions.

Ballintaggart, The Square
Daily baked sourdough, treats and wine, stylish enamelware and artisan provisions.

Malcolm Appleby designer, jeweller and hand engraver, Grandtully
A treasure trove. By appointment only (email: swapp@dircon.co.uk).

Zanna’s Top Tips

There are two main routes in and out of Aberfeldy. I recommend arriving via the expansive Crieff Road, which offers a sense of breathing space and feels almost like Sutherland, with a wealth of wildlife – the rare and endangered black grouse, along with hares, owls, deer, geese and curlews – plus sweeping heather and resilient rowan trees lining the way. Entering this way, you know you’re heading somewhere special, with majestic mountain views on the descent. When leaving town, head towards Grandtully, a winding route that follows the river and passes the Grandtully rapids and village. 

Join the Aberfeldy Community Facebook page in advance. It’s the go-to place for local events, helping hands, lost property – and the most reliable alerts for the northern lights, which we’ve experienced about eight times in the past four years. Someone always posts the best viewing spots straight away! 

Aberfeldy has two swimming pools: one at Breadalbane Community Campus and another at Moness Resort (open to non-residents). 

You can see more of Zanna’s work and gallery at zannawilson.com, or follow on Instagram @thewatermillgallery and @zannawilson.