From Angus to Aberdeenshire
A day by car, from Aberlemno Pictish Stones to Dunnottar Castle.
Written by Graeme Johncock
I’m a big believer of turning any journey into a packed road trip whenever it’s possible. You can drive from Dundee to Aberdeen in an hour and a half if you’re in a rush, but there’s so much to see along the way if you have the time.
The route
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
Aberlemno Pictish Stones
An attraction
Angus is famous for its Pictish Stones and my absolute favourites aren’t in a museum, but standing in the open at Aberlemno. There are three stones beside the village hall, carved hundreds of years apart by the Picts in the days before Scotland existed as a nation. Alongside Christian imagery, there are hunting scenes, a serpent and Pictish symbols that we still don’t understand, like crescents, mirrors and combs. A short distance away, outside Aberlemno Church, the kirkyard stone is most impressive. On one side, a battle plays out with Picts on the left fighting Saxons on the right. It’s thought to depict a great victory at the Battle of Dun Nechtain in 685AD! Look for the strange beasts with a horse head and fish tail on the reverse side, possibly showing a Pictish version of a Kelpie! Poke your head into the old church building, usually left unlocked with a box to leave your donation. It’s not enormous or elaborate, but it’s a perfect example of a typical Scottish parish church, where most Scots from 200 years ago would have gathered every week.
About 30 min by car
Barry Mill
An attraction
In my opinion, Barry Mill is one of the great unsung sights of Scotland’s east coast. Water-powered grain mills were once some of the most important buildings in the country, at the heart of every community. Barry Mill is one of the last working examples, carrying on around 800 years of industrial history on this spot. While not grinding commercially, staff still operate the mill for visitors who can see the complex system of cogs and pulleys that run the entire operation from just one small flowing burn! Aside from the history, it’s a beautiful spot that seems trapped in time.
More about Barry MillAbout 20 min by car
Arbroath Abbey
An attraction
Considering how important Arbroath Abbey is to Scottish history, it doesn’t get nearly as many visitors as it should. It was founded by William the Lion in 1178, and the king was buried beneath the high altar, marked by a carved slab. Step into the visitor centre and learn about the Declaration of Arbroath, sent to the Pope in 1320 from the Barons of Scotland. It confirmed Scotland’s independence from English interests, explaining Robert the Bruce’s right to be King of Scots and has been described as the greatest piece of Medieval prose ever written!
Arbroath Smokies for Lunch
Food and drink
An Arbroath Smokie beside the harbour makes the perfect lunch for fish lovers. These are pairs of haddocks hung over a wood fire until they’re perfectly smoked and sweet. The bright purple C Lyons does a variety of smoked fish products like pies for anybody scared of picking through a whole fish!
About 15 min by car
Lunan Bay
An attraction
Take a walk on the vast sand of Lunan Bay, one of the best beaches on the east coast. At one end, you can find small caves to explore, while at the other, the dangerous ruins of Red Castle loom on the cliff. That fortress was allegedly built to guard against Viking invasions, but it seems King William mostly used it as a holiday home!
About 10 min by car
House of Dun
An attraction
Stepping into House of Dun can feel a little like walking onto the set of Bridgerton. Built in 1743 as a bright, lavish replacement for the Erskines’ medieval castle nearby, it’s packed with Jacobite imagery and interesting family stories. To make sure you get the full experience, the mansion’s guides show you around in character, so tours might be a little different depending on if you get the lady of the house or a mere servant!
More about House of DunAbout 40 min by car
Crawton Waterfall
An attraction
It’s easily missed by those rushing up the coast, but take the time to stop and witness the Crawton Waterfall pouring over the Aberdeenshire cliff into the sea. If you have the time, take a walk along the clifftop path to find thousands of seabirds nesting, but be warned that the sounds and especially smells can be overwhelming!
About 5 min by car
Dunnottar Castle
An attraction
Dunnottar Castle is one of the most recognisable sights in Scotland. This ancient fortress on the cliffs looks just as impenetrable today as it would have when William Wallace fought his way inside or when Oliver Cromwell’s army was held off for eight months. Some might be happy with just a picture from across the chasm, but Dunnottar is surprisingly spacious for anybody who makes their way inside. Explore all of the ruined buildings, learn stories of the Keith family who made this rocky headland their home and the nationally significant role it’s played for over a thousand years. You probably won’t want to leave!
More days by Graeme
Graeme has written these too.
Photographs by Barry Mill (National Trust for Scotland) and The Old Boatyard Restaurant via Google; Visit Scotland / Paul Tomkins