It is one of the few houses on the Royal Mile that still looks much as it did when merchants lived above their shops.
The visit climbs through it floor by floor, and each room is laid out as if its owners had just stepped out. In the kitchen, bunches of dried herbs hang over a lit fire beside stoneware jugs and baskets. In another room a carved oak four-poster with embroidered curtains stands beside a wooden cradle, a merchant's scales sit on a table with a scatter of old coins and a plate of apples, and a writing desk stands open with its quill. In the plainer rooms there are iron beds under low beams, patchwork quilts and a knitted sock left on the linen. Leave time at the end for an ice cream downstairs.