Shetland’s South Mainland – Mousa, Jarlshof and Sumburgh Head
A day by car, from Lerwick and back.
Written by Laurie Goodlad
The South Mainland will likely be one of the first places that you’ll see in Shetland as the island’s main airport is based at the southernmost tip of the Mainland, at Sumburgh. The South Mainland is the long, narrow peninsula that protrudes south of the Central Mainland – and has been likened to the blade of a sword. Interestingly, the Old Norse name for Shetland was Hjaltland – or Hitland – and one theory is that this name comes from the hilt (hjalt) of a sword.
The South Mainland is best-known for its fertile farmland, gently rolling hills and beautiful sandy beaches. However, it’s also an area of contrast, dominated by the rugged Clift Hills that run down the peninsula like a spine, separating east from west.
The South Mainland spans only a few miles at its widest point and, at its narrowest, the width of the runway! The southernmost tip is so narrow that the main artery road (A970) that runs north to south passes over the main airport runway.
The South Mainland comprises Old Red Sandstone, providing relatively fertile soils, particularly around Quendale and Bigton, where most of the island’s crops are grown.
Lying 24 miles south of Sumburgh Head is Fair Isle, Shetland’s most southerly island – but we’ll save that jewel in the ocean for another day!
The South Mainland has some of the best beaches and archaeology in Shetland, and the following itinerary suggestions very much reflect this. Hopefully, there will be something for everyone to enjoy.
Although you’re likely to want to spend more time exploring the South Mainland, these suggestions will give a few of the highlights and act as a springboard to explore more.
The South Mainland stretches down from Lerwick and Scalloway, around 25 miles and takes in the villages of Cunningsburgh and Sandwick and the rural communities of ‘Da Ness’ before reaching the southernmost point Sumburgh. The uninhabited islands of St Ninian’s Isle and Mousa are also found in the South Mainland. Both of these are worth a visit, and the itineraries below will provide details about visiting both.
The best of Shetland’s archaeology in a day!
This day trip is perfect for anyone keen to see the best of Shetland’s archaeology – with a good smattering of wildlife and outstanding beaches thrown in for good measure.
The route
Before you go
For a Tuesday to Friday, April to September, ring the Peerie Shop Café on 01595 692817 the day before to ask for a picnic, and take cash for the Mousa Boat, which leaves Sandsayre at 11.30 and takes no bookings.
Book dinner at the Sumburgh Hotel
Dinner is by booking only, from 6pm to 8.30pm: ring 01950 460201.
Book a Jarlshof ticket online with Historic Environment Scotland for 3pm or later, as the boat is back at 2.30; from April to September it opens every day, 9.30am to 5pm.
The day
South Mainland
2 hr at the wheelAbout 57 miles
Peerie Shop Café
A café
Top tip: If you’re setting off from Lerwick in the morning, The Peerie Shop Cafe make fantastic picnic lunches that you can pre-book and collect anytime after 8 am. You’ll need to bring a picnic with you as you will spend your lunch on the uninhabited island of Mousa where there are no facilities. For this itinerary, timings are everything, so this one is broken down by the hour! 8 am - If you’re beginning your day in Lerwick, try a Peerie Shop Cafe breakfast in the town centre. Housed in a former 18th-century lodberrie, the cafe is a popular spot for locals, and James’ scrambled eggs are sure to set you up for the day. Order a picnic for the day, which should be ready by the time you finish your morning coffee!
About 4 min by car
Clickimin Broch
An attraction
9 am - Visit Clickimin Broch in Lerwick for a taste of a 2,000-year-old Iron Age broch. Situated in Lerwick, Shetland’s main town, Clickimin Broch stands elegantly on the shores of the loch, facing the modern new High School building. One of about 120 known broch sites in Shetland, these Iron Age structures dominate much of the Shetland landscape – this is just a warm-up for the impressive Mousa Broch that will come later! For more on Clickimin Broch, see our Site in Focus.
About 26 min by car
Hoswick Visitor Centre
An attraction
10 am - Leave Lerwick and drive to Hoswick, 14 miles south following the A970. Visit the Hoswick Visitor Centre, see the local history displays, and pick up a locally-made gift. The centre is a hub of local produce, featuring around 90 local makers.
About 7 min by car
Mousa
An attraction
11 am - Leave Hoswick and drive two miles to Sandsayre for the Mousa Boat ferry. The Mousa Boat sails to the island every day except Saturday. Daytime bookings are not needed (£18 adults; £8 children). Guests have three hours on the island to explore the wildlife and impressive broch. Enjoy your Peerie Shop Cafe picnic in the shadow of the broch for a magical experience. For more information about Mousa, see our Site in Focus.
About 27 min by car
Jarlshof
An attraction
3 pm - from Mousa, head south, following the A970 to Jarlshof Prehistoric and Norse Site at the southernmost point of Mainland Shetland. Top tip: we’re no longer under time pressure with Mousa timings so if you want to saunter down to Jarlshof slowly, consider a stroll to St Ninian’s Isle on the way. Jarlshof is a fascinating site spanning some 5,000 years of human history in Shetland. For more information about Jarlshof, see our Site in Focus.
About 5 min by car
Sumburgh Head
An attraction
From Jarlshof, head to Sumburgh Head. If visiting between April and August, you can view the impressive puffin colonies. Early evening is one of the best times to view the puffins as they return from fishing trips to sea. Sumburgh Head is home to the impressive Stevenson-built Sumburgh Head Lighthouse. For more information about Sumburgh Head, see our Site in Focus. Why not enjoy dinner at the Sumburgh Hotel and catch the sunset from Sumburgh Head while you’re here?
If it rains
The weather decides every sailing of the Mousa Boat: check its Sailing Information Updates on mousa.co.uk two hours before it leaves. On Mousa the only shelter is a small building at the landing and the broch itself, so take waterproofs. Under a roof on the way south are the Hoswick Visitor Centre and the Crofthouse Museum at Boddam. The Crofthouse Museum opens from May to early October, Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 1pm and 2pm to 4pm, and is free. The Sumburgh Head visitor centre opens from 10am to 5pm between late March and early October, though not on every day of the week: check sumburghhead.com. Jarlshof and the cliffs at Sumburgh Head are out in the open.
Worth a detour
- St Ninian’s Isle
St Ninian’s Isle is probably Shetland’s best-known beach. Its iconic image is found in most brochures and internet searches for places to visit in Shetland, and rightly so. St Ninian’s Isle is a picture-postcard pristine white sand tombolo spanning some 500 metres from the Shetland Mainland, across to the uninhabited St Ninian’s Isle. The 9th-century treasure hoard was discovered on the island, now displayed in Edinburgh’s National Museum.
- Quendale Mill
Visit the restored 19th-century watermill at Quendale and discover more about the milling traditions of the islands.
- Ness of Burgi
The Ness of Burgi is almost at Shetland’s southernmost point – it’s the neighbouring headland that looks across to Sumburgh Head and is home to an impressive Iron Age block fort. The walk is about two miles (3.25 km) in total and will take you around an hour.
- Old Scatness
Old Scatness Broch and Iron Age Village is a complex and fascinating archaeological site. The broch and surrounding village were accidentally discovered in 1975 whilst building a road to the airport.
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Photographs by Peerie Shop Cafe and Hoswick Visitor Centre via Google; iainmcallum