A Day in Moray Full Of Surprises

Written by Graeme Johncock
The region of Moray isn’t as well-known as some of its near neighbours, but it has a way of surprising you. One moment you’re gazing up at a soaring cathedral, the next it’s an enormous, 1000-year-old Pictish stone and before you know it, a beautiful coastline stretches into the distance. There’s a lot you can pack into just one day in Moray!
Elgin Cathedral
The gargantuan ruins of Elgin Cathedral dominate the region’s main town. Known as the “Lantern of the North,” even in ruins, it’s an impressive site. It’s seen its fair share of turmoil over the last 800 years, being burned down in the late 1300s by the dreaded “Wolf of Badenoch”....
Spynie Palace
Elgin Cathedral isn’t the beginning of the story though. Not far outside of the town lies Spynie Palace, once the location of the Cathedral of Moray. Before Elgin was constructed, Bishops could choose which church would be their cathedral and Spynie often held that honour! Eventually, this became the Bishop’s...
Sueno’s Stone
Tucked away down a dead end road, surrounded by houses in Forres, you’ll find one of the most impressive stones in all of Scotland. Standing at an enormous 6.5 metres, Sueno’s Stone is the tallest surviving Pictish cross-slab in Scotland. Carved in the 9th century, this monolith is carved with...
Cafe 1496
This is a very dog-friendly café that Molly and I usually eat at when we’re in Forres. There’s great coffee to go along with all-day breakfasts, burgers and usually a delicious special on the board!
Burghead Pictish Centre
At first glance, Burghead looks like your average, quaint, Scottish fishing village, one of many dotted along the coast here. However, just like Moray itself, this is somewhere that can really surprise you. Around 1200 years ago, this was the largest Pictish Fort anywhere in Scotland! Much of the battlements...
Duffus Castle
There aren’t many castles in Scotland that look like Duffus. The thick stone walls we see today were built in the 1300s, but the grassy mound that they sit atop dates back to an even earlier 1100s motte and bailey. Unfortunately, that mound was never designed to hold so much...
Lossiemouth
End your day back by the seaside, in the picturesque wee town of Lossiemouth. Once the busy port for the major royal burgh of Elgin, the current town has replaced four older villages that stood in its boundaries. It’s a bustling place, with plenty of wee cafes and shops. My...
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Elgin Cathedral





The gargantuan ruins of Elgin Cathedral dominate the region’s main town. Known as the “Lantern of the North,” even in ruins, it’s an impressive site. It’s seen its fair share of turmoil over the last 800 years, being burned down in the late 1300s by the dreaded “Wolf of Badenoch”. You can still see red marks on the sandstone from the heat of that fire! Make sure you climb to the top of the tower before you leave. Not only are the views spectacular, but there are dozens of intricate carvings on display throughout the building. If you look down, there are even old gravestones built into the staircase!





Spynie Palace






Elgin Cathedral isn’t the beginning of the story though. Not far outside of the town lies Spynie Palace, once the location of the Cathedral of Moray. Before Elgin was constructed, Bishops could choose which church would be their cathedral and Spynie often held that honour! Eventually, this became the Bishop’s palace instead and the jumble of ruins still gives an idea of the luxury and comfort that entailed. Legend says that it’s haunted, not by a grey lady or headless horseman, but by a ferocious lion!






Sueno’s Stone




Tucked away down a dead end road, surrounded by houses in Forres, you’ll find one of the most impressive stones in all of Scotland. Standing at an enormous 6.5 metres, Sueno’s Stone is the tallest surviving Pictish cross-slab in Scotland. Carved in the 9th century, this monolith is carved with battle scenes, Celtic knotwork and a large Christian cross. We can’t be sure what it’s depicting, but there are plenty of theories. Originally, it was thought to depict victory over an invading Scandinavian army led by Sweyn Forkbeard. Nowadays, it’s believed to be older than that, possibly celebrating Kenneth MacAlpin, the first King of Scots, defeating the Picts in battle!




Cafe 1496











This is a very dog-friendly café that Molly and I usually eat at when we’re in Forres. There’s great coffee to go along with all-day breakfasts, burgers and usually a delicious special on the board!











Burghead Pictish Centre











At first glance, Burghead looks like your average, quaint, Scottish fishing village, one of many dotted along the coast here. However, just like Moray itself, this is somewhere that can really surprise you. Around 1200 years ago, this was the largest Pictish Fort anywhere in Scotland! Much of the battlements was lost when the modern village was built in the 19th century, but the small visitor centre brings the medieval Burghead back to life. You can even pick up a key from here that opens a gate leading to the mysterious Burghead Well. This flooded chamber, cut from the rock, isn’t deep enough to have been used for drinking water, so it’s true purpose remains unknown.











Duffus Castle






There aren’t many castles in Scotland that look like Duffus. The thick stone walls we see today were built in the 1300s, but the grassy mound that they sit atop dates back to an even earlier 1100s motte and bailey. Unfortunately, that mound was never designed to hold so much weight, hence the badly leaning walls. This was one of the strongest castles in one of the richest regions of Scotland and as you approach the ruins, you’ll pass through the remains of an entire complex of buildings. Even the path towards Duffus Castle is amazing, lined with historic cobbles. While there aren’t many rooms to explore, this is a place to let your imagination run wild. There’s also a fantastic little coffee stall in the car park!






Lossiemouth











End your day back by the seaside, in the picturesque wee town of Lossiemouth. Once the busy port for the major royal burgh of Elgin, the current town has replaced four older villages that stood in its boundaries. It’s a bustling place, with plenty of wee cafes and shops. My advice would be to grab an ice cream, cross the small bridge and go for a wander along the golden sands. There aren’t many better ways to end a day in Moray than by the seaside!











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