A Day Exploring North Mull and Ulva
Written by Graeme Johncock
I might be from Scotland’s east coast, but I love a trip to the Hebrides. They all have something special to offer, but the one I find myself drawn back to time and again is the Isle of Mull. It’s got mountains, castles, history, scenery and plenty more to keep you busy for multiple days. A trip around the northern half of Mull even allows you to hop onto another smaller island, making it feel like twice the adventure!
Aros Castle
While Duart Castle is the one most people have heard of, there’s another ancient fortress of Mull with a long history. Aros Castle is a dramatic ruin perched on the cliff near the road, so overgrown that even its massive walls often seem to blend into the background. Built by...
Ulva Ferry
A small, winding road cuts across the centre of Mull, with beautiful scenery stretching out before you as you head towards Ulva Ferry. Across the short gap of water is the Isle of Ulva and there’s only one way to get there. Slide a panel on the board from white...
Ulva House Garden
A short walk from the ferry brings you to Ulva House, the island’s historic heart. This was once the seat of the chiefs of Clan MacQuarrie, although this version was rebuilt after a fire in 1955. It’s recently gained more attention after a BBC show focusing on its renovation. While...
Ulva Farm Walk
A circular route known as the Ulva Farm Walk gives you more of a view around the island, with mostly flat and well-made paths. Thanks to the kelp industry boom, the island was once home to over 600 people, although once that collapsed, the population steadily left. Not so long...
Lunch at The Boathouse
Before heading back over to Mull, there’s nowhere better for lunch than the Boathouse. The fresh seafood is always a highlight, but there’s lots more to satisfy any taste.
Eas Fors Waterfall
Once taking the small ferry back to Mull, it’s a short drive to one of the island’s most spectacular natural sights, with a very peculiar name. Eas Fors Waterfall, tumbling down the cliffs into the sea, translates as waterfall, waterfall, waterfall! Eas is Gaelic, Fors is Norse and Waterfall is...
Lip na Cloiche Garden
I don’t usually like the term “hidden gem”, but Lip na Cloiche Garden has earned it. Making the most of its sheltered position and the warming influence of the Gulf Stream, this garden has a truly astonishing variety of plants. It’s a private home, but the owner is kind enough...
Calgary Bay
Calgary BayCalgary Bay can be one of the busier places on Mull, but it deserves all the attention that it gets. The pristine white sands are sandwiched between beautiful water and wildflower-filled machair. For any Canadians who recognise the name, this small bay is what the city of Calgary was...
Calgary Art in Nature
Don’t rush away without checking out Calgary Art in Nature. For those with lots of time, there’s a woodland trail with art installations to explore in the wild. Anybody who doesn’t fancy the walk can enjoy a quiet indoor gallery or a coffee from the shop next door!
Tobermory
The road is a dramatic, winding one, cutting across Mull’s northern headland. It naturally leads back to the bustling hub of Tobermory, the island’s main settlement, famous for its coloured houses along the waterfront. There are plenty of independent stores, cafes and galleries if you have the energy, but I’m...
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