October in Edinburgh

Autumn is one of the most beautiful times to be in Edinburgh. The trees in the parks turn russet and gold, the evenings draw in, and there’s a good excuse to duck into a gallery, a theatre or a warm pub. The city has a full calendar to go with it.

Edinburgh Spanish Film Festival (October, venues across the city)

The month begins with a festival of Spanish cinema, with screenings across the city before it sets off on a tour of Scotland.

Edinburgh Cocktail Week (early October, bars across the city)

Buy a wristband and you can try signature cocktails at bars all over the city, with entry to the Cocktail Village on Festival Square, where pop-up bars, music and street food make an afternoon of it.

Scottish International Storytelling Festival (late October, Scottish Storytelling Centre)

One of the largest storytelling festivals in the world is centred on the Scottish Storytelling Centre on the High Street, with performances, workshops and a family programme for the October school holidays.

Samhuinn Fire Festival (31 October, Calton Hill)

The Beltane Fire Society marks Halloween on Calton Hill, with hundreds of performers, fire, drums and spectacular costumes. It’s a fine way to see out October.

Pumpkin picking at Craigies Farm (through October, near South Queensferry)

Just outside the city, Craigies Farm holds a pumpkin festival all through October, with pumpkin picking in the fields and after-dark picking on selected nights.

It’s the season for the Old Town’s ghost tours too, down into the vaults and dark closes off the Royal Mile.

The Royal Botanic Garden is gorgeous in autumn, with scarlet crab apples on the Chinese Hillside, bright pink nerines by the glasshouses and autumn crocuses dotted across the lawns.

Jazz Sundays (every Sunday evening, Söderberg Pavilion)

Söderberg Pavilion puts on live jazz every Sunday evening, and it’s a relaxed way to end a weekend in the city.

Dovecot Studios on Infirmary Street runs tapestry weaving days for complete beginners, taught by professional weavers in one of the world’s leading tapestry studios. It’s a lovely way to spend a wet autumn day.

Edinburgh’s weekly markets carry on all year, so wrap up and make a morning of one. Edinburgh Farmers’ Market sets up on Castle Terrace under the castle every Saturday morning, with seasonal fruit and veg, locally sourced game and more. The Grassmarket Market runs every Saturday too, with baking, produce and local craftwork, and Leith Market is on Dock Place by the Shore on Saturdays, mostly food with a few local makers. On Sundays, head to Stockbridge Market on Saunders Street for street food and lifestyle stalls.

Edinburgh’s independent bookshops keep up a full programme of author talks, launches and book groups all year. Topping & Company, Lighthouse Bookshop and the Portobello Bookshop on Portobello High Street are the ones to watch, so check their events pages before you travel.