The Quieter Side of Islay

Nicknamed the “Queen of the Hebrides”, Islay remains one of the most popular islands for visitors to Scotland. Britain’s eighth-largest island and the southernmost of the Inner Hebrides, with the coast of Northern Ireland across the water, it has plenty of quieter spots beyond the tourist hotspots. These are our favourites.

Named for the wife of its founder, Port Ellen is the largest town on Islay and home to its large malting industry, providing this key ingredient to the island’s many distilleries. Visitors to Islay itself will be greeted by the sunny harbour of Port Ellen before they even step off the ferry, as its terminal is based here and makes an excellent gateway to the rest of the island.

Overlooking Lagavulin Bay on Islay’s southside, Dunyvaig Castle is a former noble naval base dating back to the 12th century. Though now only the ruins remain of its 16th-century refurbishment, elements of the original castle can still be explored, including a courtyard and a fortified tower.

Sitting opposite Port Ellen, the white block of Carraig Fhada Lighthouse is one of the very first landmarks that welcome visitors to Islay. Considered one of the island’s most famous landmarks, the lighthouse was commissioned in 1832 in memory of the wife of Walter Frederick Campbell, a local MP.

Though slightly smaller than some of Islay’s other beaches, Singing Sands is nevertheless one of its most magical. Found just south of the Carraig Fhada Lighthouse, the beach gets its unique name from the sound the sand makes when you rub the soles of your shoes over it. Well worth a visit if only to try and recreate that beautiful sound.

Considered the de facto capital of Islay, Bowmore is one of Islay’s larger towns. Giving its name to the nearby famous distillery, the town sits on the shore of Loch Indaal. Alongside a variety of boutiques, shops and restaurants, Bowmore is also known for its round church, said to have been designed to give evil spirits no corner to hide in.

A sea loch on Islay’s north coast, Loch Gruinart sits within the Gruinart Flats, a nature reserve cared for by the RSPB. The loch is an important spot for barnacle geese during the winter months and was also at the centre of several notable historic battles, including the Battle of Traigh Ghruinneart.

Considered one of the most idyllic locations on the island, Kilnave Chapel and Cross is a quiet shoreline spot overlooking Loch Gruinart to the East. The site is bordered by beaches and is home to the ruins of a stone chapel and cross dating back to the 14th century.

With its own beach throughout most of the year, Saligo Bay is one of Islay’s most picturesque coastal spots. Looking out west from the island, the bay is best known for its collection of rock formations, some of which are believed to be more than 700 million years old.

Found on Islay’s west coast, Machir Bay is part of the Rhinns of Islay. A large beach runs along the top of the bay and has been the site of multiple significant shipwrecks over time, including the wreck of the HMS Otranto during WWI, one of the worst naval accidents of the conflict.

Producing single-malt Scottish whisky, Kilchoman is the island’s only distillery that uses traditional farm distilling methods. Everything is produced at their homestead, including their base ingredients. Opened in 2005, Kilchoman was also the first new distillery to open on Islay in 124 years.

Part of its namesake peninsula on Islay’s west coast, the Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse stands on Orsay, a small island just off the coast that is home to a number of seal colonies. The lighthouse was established in 1825 and designed by the engineer Robert Stevenson.

Taking its name from the Gaelic meaning ‘river port’, Portnahaven is a small village on the southern side of the Rhinns. With a population of around 150, the village is better known for its seals than its people, with many colonies calling the harbour and nearby bay home.

Adopted by the students of Port Ellen Primary School, Shop in the Box is a unique little store in the middle of nowhere – and in a decommissioned red phone box. Available to visit on the way to the American Monument, the shop sells work from local businesses, including homeware, accessories and gifts.

Sitting on the northern coast near the Mull of Oa is Soldiers Rock, a unique structure formed over centuries of natural erosion. With distinctive white quartz stripes around it – believed to mimic those found on military uniforms – the rock is accessible only via the water or a scenic walk from nearby Kintra.

One of the most popular Islay spots for swimming, Laggan Bay is a beach that stretches for around five miles. Particularly popular with families during the warmer months, some aspects are more exposed than others – and are therefore also popular with surfers looking to test their skills.

Sitting on the cliffside of the Oa Peninsula, the American monument is a memorial for the American soldiers who died during two naval accidents in WWI – the Tuscania and the Otranto. Built by the American Red Cross in 1920, the monument is a 20-minute drive from Port Ellen and has a beautiful view over the coastline.

The most southerly bay of Islay’s west coast, Lossit Bay is one of the quietest spots on the island because most visitors don’t know about it. It is difficult to reach, but those who walk there will find an exposed bay with some of the bluest water on the island. Great for surfers looking for secluded waves.