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White-washed houses line a curved bay with a small sandy beach
Isle of Islay

Portnahaven

A village of whitewashed cottages round a sheltered inlet at the tip of the Rhinns, where seals haul out.

Welcome

Portnahaven is a village of whitewashed cottages wrapped round the two steep sides of a narrow inlet at the south-western tip of the Rhinns of Islay, with a sandy beach at its head.

It was built in the early 1800s to house people moved from the interior of the island, and the islands of Orsay, with its lighthouse, and Eilean Mhic Coinnich shelter the harbour from the south and west. Its neighbour Port Wemyss sits just along the shore.

A few small boats still use the harbour, and if the tide is right, seals haul out on the rocks in the middle of the inlet, quite at ease with visitors. Above the harbour is the white parish church, which has two doors: one, it is said, for the people of Portnahaven and one for Port Wemyss. The pub by the harbour, An Tigh Seinnse, serves food. Allow time for the drive, as the last seven miles from Port Charlotte are on single-track roads.

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Not farCaol Ila DistilleryThe distillery on the Sound of Islay near Port Askaig, the Islay Home of Johnnie Walker, with tours from £21 and views to Jura.20 milesSee itCaol Ila Distillery
Before you go

Portnahaven is at the end of the road on the Rhinns.

Watch for the seals on the rocks in the inlet when the tide is right.

Where
The south-western tip of the Rhinns of Islay, with Port Wemyss next door.
Open
A village, open at any time.
Getting there
The last seven miles from Port Charlotte are on single-track roads. The 450 bus runs between Bowmore and Portnahaven, Monday to Saturday between 7am and 6pm and not on Sunday. Ferries from Kennacraig now arrive at Port Askaig, because CalMac's Port Ellen terminal is closed for upgrades until about 2029, and Loganair flies from Glasgow to Islay Airport every day.
Seals
On the rocks in the middle of the inlet, if the tide is right.
Food
An Tigh Seinnse, the pub by the harbour, serves food.

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Where it is

At the south-western tip of the Rhinns of Islay, next to Port Wemyss.

Close byAt the tip of the Rhinns.
  1. The whitewashed front of An Tigh Seinnse in Portnahaven, its windows and door picked out in red.An Tigh SeinnseA small, traditional pub by the harbour in Portnahaven, known for its local seafood.Under a mile 1 min by road
  2. The lighthouse on Orsay small on the skyline, dark rocks and still water in front.Rhinns of Islay LighthouseIslay's oldest lighthouse, a Robert Stevenson tower of 1825 on the island of Orsay off Portnahaven.Under a mile 2 min by road
  3. Lossit Bay from above, a crescent of pale sand between rocky headlands, surf rolling in.Lossit BayA remote crescent of golden sand backed by dunes on the wild west coast of the Rhinns of Islay.2 miles 6 min by road
  4. The drive up to An Gleann, a white cottage behind its gate and hedges.An Gleann TabletA cottage confectioner near Port Charlotte making tablet by hand, some of it with Islay and Jura malts.3 miles 5 min by road
  5. Port Charlotte HotelPort Charlotte HotelA small hotel by the beach in Port Charlotte, with sea-view rooms, seafood platters and live music in summer.7 miles 11 min by road
  6. Surf rolling onto the beach under a wide sky.Machir BayA long Atlantic beach of pale sand below the dunes at Kilchoman on Islay, overlooked by the Otranto war graves.15 miles 29 min by road
Directions
White-washed Bruichladdich Distillery buildings with turquoise-framed windows and a tall chimneyAttractionsBruichladdich Distillery9.0 miles
The Kilchoman kiln with its pagoda roof beside the farm road.AttractionsKilchoman Distillery15 miles
Waves break over dark rocks and sand under a grey skyAttractionsSaligo Bay16 miles
Bowmore Distillery, Isle of IslayAttractionsBowmore Distillery18 miles

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What we have written about it, the collections it is in and more on Islay.

From the magazineI’ll Take the Slow RoadFrom the magazineIn Search of Otters on IslayArticleThe Quieter Side of IslayCollectionThe Prettiest Villages in Scotland
More on Islay
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For further reading, before you go. The details on this page were checked on .