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Dark rocks on the sand under a misty headland at the Singing Sands.
Isle of Islay

The Singing Sands

A small sheltered beach near Port Ellen, by Carraig Fhada lighthouse, whose sand is said to sing underfoot.

Welcome

The Singing Sands, Tràigh Bhàn, is a small, secluded beach of pale sand on the Oa side of Port Ellen's bay, just beyond the square lighthouse of Carraig Fhada.

It takes its name from the sound the sand is said to make when you scuff your shoes across it, and it is sheltered from the westerly winds, with sea pinks on the rocks and wild goats sometimes about. From the beach you can look back over the bay to Port Ellen, with the island of Texa across the water.

The walk there is part of the pleasure. It starts by Kilnaughton graveyard and its ruined chapel and follows the shore of Kilnaughton Bay, where there may be otters, seals and eider ducks, towards the lighthouse, built in 1832 in memory of Lady Ellinor Campbell. A signed path crosses behind the houses to the beach, which is about 700 feet from end to end.

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The Daily for 13 November, from Scotland with love. A waterfall tumbles over mossy rocks into a woodland pool, autumn leaves scattered on the water.
Not farCaol Ila DistilleryThe distillery on the Sound of Islay near Port Askaig, the Islay Home of Johnnie Walker, with tours from £21 and views to Jura.17 milesSee itCaol Ila Distillery

Before you go

The walk starts opposite Kilnaughton graveyard on the Oa road out of Port Ellen.

A shore track and a signed path lead to the beach.

Where
Tràigh Bhàn, a small beach just beyond the Carraig Fhada lighthouse, on the Oa side of Port Ellen's bay, Isle of Islay.
Parking
Opposite Kilnaughton graveyard, off the Oa road. The last stretch of track to the lighthouse is private, so park here.
Walk
The circular route from the graveyard by Kilnaughton Bay and the lighthouse to the beach and back is 4.4 km (2.75 miles), about an hour and a half, with 80 metres of ascent.
Access
Track, beach and a faint rough path on the return, very unclear at first. The burn crossing Kilnaughton beach is usually paddled and can be avoided by taking the tarred lane. A raised path leads to the base of the lighthouse unless the tide is very high. The rocks by the lighthouse bridge can be extremely slippery, and in a swell you will want waterproofs.
Getting there
CalMac's ferry from Kennacraig sails to Port Askaig while Port Ellen is closed for upgrades (from 2 June 2026, expected to reopen in 2029); Port Askaig is about 20.8 miles from Port Ellen. Or fly from Glasgow to Islay Airport. There is no public transport to the start, which is 2 km from Port Ellen.

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Where it is

Tràigh Bhàn, beyond Carraig Fhada, near Port Ellen, Isle of Islay.

Close byAcross the bay from Port Ellen.
  1. Carraig Fhada lighthouse on its rocky point under a dark sky.Carraig Fhada LighthouseScotland's only square lighthouse, built in 1832 at Kilnaughton Bay by the Laird of Islay in memory of his wife.Under a mile 1 min by road
  2. Isle of Islay (pronounced Eye-la)Isle of Islay (pronounced Eye-la)The most southerly of the Hebrides, known for its whisky, its beaches and Finlaggan, seat of the Lords of the Isles.2 miles 8 min by road
  3. Port EllenPort EllenA village of white and pastel cottages on Islay's south coast, founded in 1821, with three famous distilleries along the road east.2 miles 8 min by road
  4. The crown and the words THE SHOP on the red telephone box.Shop in the BoxA red telephone box on the Oa road turned into an honesty shop of island prints and cards, raising money for good causes.3 miles 9 min by road
  5. Laphroaig's white warehouses with the name in black across the bay, waves on the stony shore.Laphroaig DistilleryA distillery on Islay's south coast near Port Ellen, founded in 1815, with its own malting floors and peat kilns.4 miles 11 min by road
  6. A dark headland and a rocky cove at the Mull of Oa, the sea bright beyond.Mull of OaThe cliff-bound south-west tip of Islay, an RSPB reserve of 100-metre sea cliffs and moor, open at all times, where golden eagles fly.6 miles 16 min by road
Directions
The white front of Lagavulin with its name on the wall and the red chimney behind.AttractionsLagavulin Distillery5.0 miles
The broken tower of Dunyvaig Castle on its rocky point, the sea grey beyond.AttractionsDunyvaig Castle5.3 miles
Ardbeg distillery's whitewashed warehouse wall beside the rocky Islay shoreAttractionsArdbeg Distillery5.9 miles
The American Monument on its cliff top at the Mull of Oa, the sea breaking on the rocks below.AttractionsAmerican Monument5.9 miles
Kildalton CrossAttractionsKildalton Cross10 miles
Bowmore, Isle of IslayAttractionsBowmore12 miles
The whitewashed front of the Bowmore Hotel on Jamieson Street, its name across the gable.RestaurantsBowmore Hotel12 miles

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