Spending the Day in Speyside Whisky Country
A day by car, from Inveravon Pictish Stones to the Fiddichside Inn.
Written by Graeme Johncock
If thinking of Scotland gives you a sudden thirst for Scotch whisky, there’s one part of the country that can’t be missed. Speyside is famous for its distilleries, and I’ve visited plenty of them, but there’s more to discover there than the bottom of a glass!
The route
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
Book online, where the places are live: 16 to a tour, no under-8s.
Book on the distillery's site only, up to 12 weeks ahead: without a booking there is little chance of a place.
Book on Diageo's site: tour dates are released about 90 days ahead, groups are 16 at most, and under-8s can't go on the tours.

Inveravon Pictish Stones
An attraction
Turn down a winding track to discover a great sense of peace and tranquility at Inveravon Church, seemingly removed from the modern world. While this building is only a couple of hundred years old, a surprising discovery shows this site stretches back at least another millennium! Under cover in a porch stand three carved Pictish stones. You’ll make out some typical symbols like a mirror & comb, crescent and v-rod, but slightly less common is the enormous bird that’s often said to be an eagle. The small stone in the alcove that looks like another bird’s head is actually part of a Pictish Beast!
More about Inveravon Pictish StonesAbout 5 min by car

Knockando Woolmill
Food and drink
Sheep are a common sight around Speyside, so it’s no surprise that weaving is a huge part of the local heritage. Knockando Woolmill has been here since at least 1784, a rare example of a rural district mill. A guided tour takes you through the mill’s history and every step of the process, from raw wool to finished cloth. Local farmers brought fleeces here to be spun, with machinery becoming increasingly complex as the Industrial Revolution advanced. The Victorian machines are still in place, creating beautiful fabric the traditional way, so you can pick up authentic mementoes to remember your time in Scotland.

Cardhu Distillery
An attraction
After waiting until a more respectable hour of the morning, it’s finally time to sample some Speyside whisky. Cardhu Distillery is a great option, founded in 1824 by John and Helen Cumming, but with older roots in illicit distilling. In the early 1800s, that was common in this area, with dozens of stills hidden in the surrounding hills. Helen did things differently, crafting her spirit quietly in her farmhouse kitchen. When the government agents came knocking, she would cover the smell of yeast with freshly baked bread, distract the men, then run a red flag up behind her home. That was a warning to all the other illicit distillers to hide their equipment!
About 10 min by car

Aberlour Hotel
Food and drink
For lunch, grab a bowl of championship-winning Cullen Skink at the Aberlour Hotel. While the classic is delicious, my personal favourite is the “Skink with a Twist” which adds blaggis bonbons and bacon to the traditional smoked haddock, potato and cream soup.
More about Aberlour HotelAbout 5 min by car

Speyside Cooperage
An attraction
After tasting the whisky at Cardhu and learning how important the casks are to the final taste, it makes sense to see how those are made. The Speyside Cooperage is missed by most visitors, but inside you can see oak casks being dismantled, skimmed, rebuilt and toasted. The tour brings the importance of these barrels to the fore as you watch them work, giving extra appreciation to your dram!
About 5 min by car

Glenfiddich Distillery
An attraction
While Rome was built on seven hills, Dufftown was built on seven stills. That old saying sums up how important the whisky industry is to this small Speyside town. There are plenty of distilleries to choose from, but Glenfiddich is one of the best, with the title of “World’s Most Awarded Single Malt”! Whether you want to take a tour of the distillery or if you just want to sample some drams in the Whisky Lounge, it’s always worth popping in.
About 5 min by car

Auchindoun Castle
An attraction
I find it hard to spend a day anywhere in Scotland and not include at least one castle. Auchindoun has long been one of my favourites, partly because it doesn’t get a lot of attention. It was clearly substantial in its day, with incredible views of the surrounding hills, perched on top of what was probably an old Iron Age fort. This was once home to the Ogilvy family but became infamous after passing to a branch of the Gordons. Adam Gordon was a warlike character, attacking and burning nearby Corgarff Castle with everybody still inside. That saw the Mackintoshes looking to get revenge and destroyed Auchindoun in return!
More about Auchindoun CastleAbout 15 min by car

The Fiddichside Inn
Just in case you needed one last dram, return to Craigellachie and the Fiddichside Inn. This is a tiny place without frills, music or a TV, but it’s got a well-stocked whisky shelf along with very friendly staff and locals, making it the best way to end a day exploring Speyside!
More about The Fiddichside Inn
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Photographs by Katinka van der Linden, Annie Slizak, Sven Eggebrecht and Tomasz Francuz via Google




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