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A curving sandy beach backed by dune grass and a rocky headland
Sutherland

Ceannabeinne Beach

A cove of white sand between rocky headlands on the north coast east of Durness, below the old township of Ceannabeinne, the rocks streaked pink.

Welcome

A few miles east of Durness, where the A838 runs along the top of the cliffs, the land drops away to Ceannabeinne: a small cove of white sand held between rocky headlands, the water clear and pale over the sand, and the rocks themselves streaked with pink.

Visited and photographed by Simon Hird

On a calm evening the headlands stand mirrored in the still water.

The rock here is Lewisian gneiss, and the ground above the beach is rich with flowers; more than a hundred and twenty kinds have been recorded around it.

On the slope above lie the ruins of Ceannabeinne township, where fifty people lived in 1841. That year, when they were served with notices to leave for sheep, they refused, and the Durness Riots followed. A trail with boards tells their story, and it makes a fine walk before or after time on the sand.

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The Daily for 2 November, from Scotland with love. Cloud shadows cross a sunlit mountain above a loch, rust-coloured moorland stretching below
Before you go

The beach is open at all times and free, with a parking area by the A838 and a short path down.

Where
On the A838 a few miles east of Durness.
Above it
The ruins of Ceannabeinne township and its trail.

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Did you know

A stone bothy with a yellow door and picnic tables set on the grass, evening light catching the roof
Did you know

Fifty people.

Ceannabeinne had fifty people in ten households in 1841; the following year there were none.

A rocky cliff face streaked with pink lichen, reflected in the still water of the beach below
Did you know

Old rock.

The rock beneath the beach is Lewisian gneiss, and 120 kinds of flowers have been recorded around it.

A figure standing at the edge of a rocky headland reflected in the still water of a beach
Did you know

The first refusal.

In 1841 Durness was the first place where people refused simply to accept being cleared for sheep.

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Where it is

On the north coast a few miles east of Durness, below the A838.

Close byDurness.
  1. Tumbled stone walls of Ceannabeinne township on a green slope in evening light, the sea beyond.Ceannabeinne Village RuinsThe cleared township on the slope above.Under a mile 1 min by road
  2. Vast limestone cave arch with a wooden viewing shelter beside the streamSmoo CaveA great sea cave on the edge of Durness.2 miles 3 min by road
  3. Wooden viewing platform inside a large cave with rocky floor and green-lit wallsSmoo CaveSet into the limestone cliffs about a mile east of Durness you will find this spectacular sea cave.2 miles 3 min by road
  4. DurnessDurness3 miles 5 min by road
  5. Cocoa Mountain BalnakeilCocoa Mountain Balnakeil4 miles 7 min by road
  6. Balnakeil BeachBalnakeil BeachWhite sand and dunes on the far side of Durness.4 miles 8 min by road
Directions
A white church-like building sits at the foot of a rocky, grass-covered hillside, sheep grazing on the slope above.DurnessCeannabeinne CottageSleeps 4 · 0.3 miles
A curved timber house glows with lit windows at dusk, set low into a grassy hillside.Port na ConHill CottageSleeps 2 · 3.8 miles
A curved timber-roofed house catches the evening light beside a sea loch, gorse and heather covering the foreground.LaidShore CottageSleeps 2 · 3.8 miles
Wooden gallery building with potted plants and a hill behindShoppingBalnakeil Craft Village3.9 miles
AttractionsDurness Golf Club4.0 miles
Balnakeil Church's roofless walls above a kirkyard of old stones, the bay beyond.AttractionsBalnakeil Church4.3 miles
Salmon farm cages and a workboat in a loch below snow-covered hillsAttractionsLoch Eriboll Viewpoint4.7 miles as the crow flies
Pink boulder overlooking moorland lochs and coastline from a Scottish hillsideAttractionsKyle of Durness5.1 miles
AttractionsBen Hope9.8 miles

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Stay nearby

Places to stay near the beach, and when each is next free.

A white church-like building sits at the foot of a rocky, grass-covered hillside, sheep grazing on the slope above.Ceannabeinne Cottage
  • Sleeps 4
  • In Durness
  • Under a mile from Ceannabeinne
Free 18–25 JunA curved timber house glows with lit windows at dusk, set low into a grassy hillside.Hill Cottage
  • Sleeps 2
  • In Port na Con
  • 4 miles from Ceannabeinne
Check datesA curved timber-roofed house catches the evening light beside a sea loch, gorse and heather covering the foreground.Shore Cottage
  • Sleeps 2
  • In Laid
  • 4 miles from Ceannabeinne
Check datesA stone cottage with a slated roof and skylights sits on a lawn, a bench, fire bowl and basket of logs set out on the patio in front.Ferryman's Cottage
  • Sleeps 4
  • In Hope
  • 4 miles from Ceannabeinne
Check datesPlaces to stayEvery stay in SutherlandAll our places to stay nearby, to search by date and by who is coming.See them all
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CollectionScotland's Best Beaches
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