The Isle of Skye - Discovering the Nooks & Crannies

Getting there

You could forgive Skye for having an ego. It’s said that Scotland’s top three tourist destinations are Edinburgh, Loch Ness, and the 50-mile-long rhapsody of moors and mountains that we know better as the Isle of Skye. But while the second largest of Scotland’s islands (behind only Lewis & Harris – but you knew that) is emphatically no secret, it’s popular for very good reason.

Much of the island’s appeal is down to its devastatingly rugged landscapes – towering ridges, contorted peaks, sheer cliffs and sparkling lochs – with the rocky range of the Cuillin Hills one of many focal points for hikers and climbers. This all makes it a stirring place to spend time, although there’s far more to it than outdoor adventure. Artisans, food producers, crofting museums, castles and a whole range of easy-to-linger pubs and restaurants have helped Skye to evolve into a brilliant all-round destination.

The high-summer crowds can be a little oppressive, so it definitely pays to time your trip well, but this is a sizeable destination, and crafting your own island experience is easily done. From its traditional villages to its superb wildlife-watching, and from its shapely beaches to its adventure sports, Skye is the kind of place that not only keeps you busy, but nags at you for a repeat visit. Its Gaelic name is An t-Eilean Sgitheanach, which some say translates as ‘the winged isle’. This is a reference to its shape on a map, which resembles a pair of outstretched wings, but could just as easily refer to its soaring beauty.

History

Settlers have occupied Skye’s valleys and coastal areas since the Mesolithic era – little wonder when you look at its prime west coast location between the mainland and the Western Isles – and it later spent many centuries changing hands between Celtic tribes, Viking powerbrokers and the Highland clans of MacLeod (whose base, Dunvegan Castle, still stands) and MacDonald. It first officially came under the control of Scotland following the 1266 Treaty of Perth, although it was ruled, largely independently, by the Lords of the Isles until the 15th century. The Jacobite conflicts of the early 18th century served to dismantle the status quo, while later the Highland Clearances saw many traditional crofting settlements dismantled and evacuated to make way for sheep farms – many locals were forced to emigrate, in time effectively halving the population. Today the main pillars of island life are farming, forestry and fishing, as well as the modern-day totem of Skye’s economy: tourism.

See & Do

The island has some 500 million years of history under its belt, not to mention an ongoing influx of fresh creative talent, so whether you’re here for the first time or the fortieth, there’s always something more to discover. The varied landscapes cry out to be explored, while the indoor and wet-weather options are no less plentiful.

Portree

Located roughly midway along the east coast, the village of Portree is Skye’s unassuming ‘capital’. Famously home to the only secondary school on the island, it’s an attractive port settlement with good options for transport, accommodation and eating out.

Elgol, Strathaird Peninsula

Getting to this hamlet on the southern Strathaird Peninsula is a joy in itself, with the road sweeping beneath the Cuillins before curving towards the sea. Wander the stony beach, gaze out to the Small Isles from the pier, and follow a footpath to Spar Cave.

Tarskavaig, Sleat

The old crofting village of Tarskavaig is scattered across a swathe of Sleat shoreline. It’s a pretty sight in its own right, but the views that it affords back across to the Cuillins are downright spectacular.

WALKS, NATURE AND WILDLIFE

Coral Beach, Claigan 

There’s more to this Caribbean-esque pairing of white beach and turquoise sea than meets the eye. The deeply photogenic pale ‘sands’ of the tucked-away beach aren’t sand at all, or even coral, but actually tiny pieces of sun-bleached seaweed. Nearby rock pools make it family-friendly, and at very low tides it’s possible to walk out to the tiny island of Lampay.

Loch Coruisk , Cuillin Hills

Locations don’t come much more filmic than the one enjoyed by Loch Coruisk, a deep, inky-blue loch at the foot of the Black Cuillin. It’s a place shrouded in folklore: a shape-shifting kelpie, or water-horse, is said to live here, while Sir Walter Scott was moved to write that “Rarely human eye has known/ A scene so stern as that dread lake.” Take a boat trip to enjoy it from the water, or follow the quiet hiking trail that snakes around the shoreline.

Talisker Bay, Talisker

It’s a devilish job to pick out scenic highlights on Skye – they’re everywhere you look – but this glorious bay, midway along the island’s west coast, is undoubtedly one of them. Hefty cliffs, a huge waterfall and a fine-looking beach contribute to making it a draw for everyone from families to hikers.

Spar Cave, Near Elgol

It’s not straightforward to visit this well-concealed cave – reachable only when low tide allows, and even then requiring a steep descent and a rocky scramble – but it has a magic of its own. History and legend are thick in the air here, and on a more modern note, it’s where Bear Grylls brought an overawed Ben Stiller for his TV show.

Brothers’ Point, Trotternish Peninsula

If you’re looking for one of those iconic Skye views – a geologically spectacular green headland reaching out into the blue wilds of the sea – follow the track to this remarkable point, also known as Rubha nam Brathairean, on the Trotternish peninsula.

Old Man of Storr, Trotternish Peninsula

The ‘Old Man’ is a spearing pinnacle of rock on the rugged Trotternish ridgeline. The walk up to reach it is one of the most popular on the island, but the views from the top are unbeatable.

Neist Point, Duirinish Peninsula

Famed as one of the best sunset-viewing points in Skye – if not the whole of the UK – this rampantly lovely headland projects into The Minch and is also the site of Neist Point Lighthouse, now well over 110 years old.

Quiraing

The swerving, slanting landscapes of Skye are at their most ravishing on the Quiraing, up in the north of Trotternish, where airy cliffs and rock-towers backdrop one of the most celebrated walks on the island.

Fairy Pools, Glenbrittle

It’s not hard to see how this series of postcard-pretty waterfalls got its name. Surrounded by green fields – and a perfect option for a bracing wild swim – the clear-running pools are reached via a walking track from the nearest road.

Fairy Glen, Near Uig

Not to be confused with the 30-miles-distant (but similarly enchanting) Fairy Pools, the remarkable Fairy Glen is a little world of its own – a grassy cluster of lochans, rounded hills and basalt outcrops. There’s minimal parking, so it’s a good idea to walk from Uig.

Point of Sleat, Sleat 

The hike to Skye’s southernmost point is a manageable and deeply rewarding walk of two hours or so, passing a handsome white beach and serving up cracking views of the Small Isles: Rum, Canna and Eigg.

Loch Fada, Near Old Man of Storr, Trotternish Peninsula

One of the two so-called Storr Lochs – the other, Loch Leathan, lies directly to the north – this dreamily photogenic body of water is surrounded by the rumpled green topography of the Trotternish Peninsula. Come, look and linger.

Kilt Rock, Trotternish Peninsula

Could it be possible that geology has a sense of humour? Skye is full of remarkable natural landmarks, but few are so recognisable as the aptly named Kilt Rock, a 90-metre-high row of basalt columns above a limestone ‘skirt’, the whole scene resembling a pleated kilt. Some even claim the colours of the rocks give it a slight tartan hue. The Mealt Falls are almost adjacent.

Rha Waterfall, Near Uig

An easy stroll from the nearest road brings you to this serenely beautiful double waterfall, set in woodland. Come calling after heavy rain to see it at its most impressive.

Scorrybreac, Near Portree

Clan history hangs thick on this wild spit of land just outside Portree. It was the stronghold of the Macneacail (Clan Nicolson) for more than eight centuries, and still hosts various gatherings and memorials.

Camas Daraich, Sleat 

Another well-concealed gem that reveals itself to travellers who make the effort, this stunner of a sandy beach has a holiday-brochure colour scheme and a hidden-away feel that makes it truly special. It’s reached on foot, and lies not far from the Point of Sleat.

Activities

Climb the Cuillins, Cuillin Hills 

This iconic, razor-backed range – generally divided between the round-topped Red Cuillin and the more jagged Black Cuillin – contains no less than 12 Munros. Serious climbers and mountaineers are drawn here in numbers. The rewards are superb, but you should be aware that many routes are very challenging. Mountain guides and climbing instructors can both be hired if needed.

Skye Highland Adventures, Balmacara

Based just off the island – but very much focused on exploring Skye as well as the surrounding Highlands – this adventure operator offers canyoning, coasteering, river-tubing, kayaking and the like. Because if you really want to sample Skye, there’s nothing quite like getting wet.

Misty Isle Boat Trips, Elgol

If you’re looking for a boat operator that knows its stuff, look no further than Misty Isle, which has been running trips between Elgol and Loch Coruisk since 1969 (Alfred Hitchcock was an early customer). The loch itself is ringed by the Cuillin mountains, so the scenery’s entrancing, and you might spot anything from razorbills to golden eagles. The family who run the trips have been based in Elgol since the 1300s.

Skye Ebikes, Near Kilmuir, Trotternish Peninsula

An enticing proposition for anyone who fancies exploring the Trotternish Peninsula on two wheels but doesn’t have the stamina of a Tour de France champ. These pedal-assisted electric bikes can be hired by the day, and you’ll also be given a couple of recommended routes, with stops.

Talisker Distillery, Carbost

The reputation of Skye’s oldest working distillery goes before it. Standing on the shores of Loch Harport since the year 1830, and granting superb views of the Cuillins, Talisker is well known for its full-bodied single malt. Tours and tastings let you see for yourself why the fuss is deserved.

Torabhaig Distillery, Teangue, Sleat

Fed by spring water from two island burns, and based in a restored farmstead, Torabhaig is precisely the kind of single malt whisky distillery you’d hope for. It’s only been in full production since 2017, meaning its whiskies are still taking shape, but tours give good insight.

Glenelg Ferry, Glenelg

In Scotland, getting to an island is often half the fun. Sure, there’s a road bridge to Skye from the Kyle of Lochalsh, but it’s far more memorable to arrive on the Glenachulish, the world’s last manually operated turntable ferry. The short crossing departs the mainland from Glenelg and arrives into Kylerhea.

Visit Raasay

Reachable via a short ferry crossing from the Skye township of Sconser – and home to a mere 160 people – the 14-mile-long Isle of Raasay is known for its rugged beauty, its whisky distillery, and its multi-layered history. The distinguished Gaelic poet Sorley MacLean was born here in 1911, and it’s easy to see how the place would have nurtured a creative mind.

The Donnie Munro Mural, Portree

Remember Runrig? The Celtic rock band remain one of Skye’s most enduring musical exports, and original frontman Donnie Munro is responsible for the large, eye-catching murals of island scenery that decorate the wall opposite Birch, his son’s Portree café.

History

Dun Beag Broch, Near Struan

This crumbling Iron Age tower, a circular fortification from a long-lost age, looks out across Loch Bracadale and the Cuillin Hills. Despite being built more than 2,000 years ago, excavations have turned up archaeological finds from more recent eras too, showing that this strategic – and dramatic – spot was occupied for many centuries.

Sligachan Old Bridge, Sligachan

Glance to your left as you pass through the settlement of Sligachan on the A87 and you’ll spy a piece of history; a triple-span stone bridge built by Thomas Telford in the early 19th century. Now disused, the bridge still straddles the river – and it’s said that by washing your face in the waters that flow beneath it, you’ll gain eternal beauty. Gotta be worth a try.

The Grave of Flora MacDonald, Near Uig

On the windswept slopes of Trotternish, less than half a mile from the Skye Museum of Island Life, you’ll find an old burial ground filled with historic graves and memorials, including the final resting place of the Jacobite heroine Flora MacDonald, who famously helped Bonnie Prince Charlie to escape government troops.Colbost Croft Museum,

Near Dunvegan

Giving vivid insight into the life of a 19th-century island crofter, this restored traditional dwelling centres on an open peat hearth. Among other things, you’ll learn that living in a dark and almost perpetually smoky interior couldn’t have been easy.

Skye Museum of Island Life, Near Uig

Sitting close to the island’s northernmost point is this cluster of traditional thatched cottages, which serve to showcase the realities of 19th-century crofting. It’s a fascinating attraction, where old tools, peat fires and oil lamps help conjure a tangible sense of island life as it used to be.

Boreraig, Near Broadford 

Not to be confused with the crofting settlement of Borreraig (with three ‘r’s) in the far north, the deserted township of Boreraig (with two ‘r’s) stands as testimony to the injustices of the Highland Clearances. Census archives show that in 1851 some 120 villagers lived here – today all that remains are stones, stories, and deep windswept views.

Castles

Armadale Castle, Armadale

A ruined fortress, a coastal location and 40 acres of stately woodland gardens combine to make Armadale Castle one of the chief attractions on the Sleat peninsula. The castle dates back to the 19th century and was once the seat of the Macdonald clan; on a fine day it’s mighty picturesque.

Duntulm Castle, Trotternish Peninsula

This decaying clifftop stronghold is as atmospheric as they come. First fortified in the Iron Age, it subsequently passed hands between different movers and shakers, with the MacDonalds of Sleat among its later long-term residents. It’s said to be haunted.

Dunvegan Castle, Dunvegan

The seat of the mighty Clan MacLeod since way back in the 13th century, and still slung imposingly across a rocky coastal outcrop, this very much intact fortress is one of Skye’s big historical draws, with decorated interiors, princely gardens and no shortage of stirring stories to tell.

Dunscaith Castle, Sleat

Another shattered waterside castle, its ruined remnants deeply evocative of battles past, Dunscaith sits on an offshore crag and was abandoned in the 17th century. If you’re wondering about the preponderance of similarly named fortresses, incidentally, ‘dun’ translates as ‘castle’.

Knock Castle, Sleat

The Skye shoreline isn’t short of crumbling castles. It takes an effort to reach this one-time base of the MacDonalds, but the rewards come in the form of battle-scarred masonry, quiet cliffs and stirring views from the Sleat coast.

Eat, Drink & Shop

Tourism has oiled Skye’s joints for decades, the upside of which is that visitors can expect a range of enticing options when it comes to food, drink and gift-shopping. If you’re envisaging little more than fish and chips and a few postcards, think again.

Stein Inn, Waternish Peninsula

Anywhere that bills itself as the oldest inn on Skye is likely to be special – and so it proves with the whitewashed Stein Inn, set overlooking the sea from the Waternish Peninsula. As well as the views and the ales, you can expect seafood in the form of langoustines, lobsters, crab and mussels.

Isle of Skye Sea Salt Company, Near Dunvegan

There’s salt, and there’s salt. These pure Scottish sea salt crystals are natural, unrefined, and cured only by time, the wind and the sun, achieving a flavour and texture that has seen this local company continue to win awards. It’s one of just a handful of local food producers entered into the International Slow Food Movement’s Ark of Taste.

The Ferry Inn, Uig

The Trotternish Peninsula is easy to enjoy at any time, but when you factor in a cosy 19th-century inn, boutique bedrooms, local ales and whiskies, more than 80 different gins and expertly cooked local produce – well, what’s not to love?

Three Chimneys, Colbost

Looking to splurge on an unforgettable meal? This is the place. Michelin stars and AA rosettes have both swirled around this gold, five-star restaurant with rooms: in 2020 it was even named Scotland’s best dining experience. Head chef Scott Davies combines “the finest techniques of ancient Nordic and haute Scottish cuisine”, which translates into the likes of Wester Ross BBQ salmon, or smoked haddock raviolo. Book ahead.

The OId Inn, Carbost

A short stroll from the Talisker Distillery is this CAMRA-recommended lochside pub that draws hikers, dog-walkers and tourists – and for very good reason. The setting’s spectacular, the food ranges from fish and chips to vegan curries, and there’s decent B&B accommodation. It’s previously been named Skye’s best pub.

The Oyster Shed, Carbost

No fancy cutlery or ironed tablecloths here – just a does-what-it-says-on-the-tin, deservedly popular farm-shop-cum-takeaway selling oysters and other fresh Skye seafood. If provenance matters to you more than posh decor, it’s not to be missed.

Birch, Portree

A specialist coffee shop run by Donnie Munro’s son Niall, Birch was set up in 2020 and aims to recreate the vibe and style of Melbourne’s famed café scene – with the notable difference of using locally sourced products from the islands and Highlands.

The Red Brick Café @ Jans, Near Portree

It’s not often you find good food in a hardware store, but long-standing family business Jansvans is the unlikely location for this top-notch Portree café, where you’ll find everything from breakfast bagels and home-cooked scotch pancakes to falafel wraps and pulled pork burgers.

Deli Gasta, Broadford

If you’re going do something, do it well. This commitment to quality underpins Broadford’s Deli Gasta, which champions local produce and serves up scones, coffees, smoothies and all manner of other goodies. For something more substantial, try The Monarch, a sandwich which combines Great Glen venison salami, plum and apple chutney, Scottish cheddar and leaves.

Café Arriba, Portree

A splash of rainbow vibrancy in Portree, the colourful Café Arriba has harbour views, all-day breakfasts, cakes and daily changing specials, with lots of veggie and vegan options. It’s also dog-friendly.

Amy’s Place Tea Room, Torrin, near Broadford

Home-baked cakes take their rightful spot as the headline act at this roadside tearoom north of Torrin, where you’ll also find soup, pies and rolls, as well as a deli section, a wide range of teas, and coffee from nearby Skye Roastery.

Dunvegan Bakery, Dunvegan

Catering to locals and passers-by since 1870 – thereby making it Skye’s oldest bakery – this long-standing bakehouse still produces everything on site, from breads and rolls to pies and pastries. There’s an adjoining coffee shop.

Caora Dhubh Coffee Company, Carbost

A location on the water’s edge and a devotion to sourcing the best Scottish-roasted coffee beans makes this cracking little café one of Skye’s best. Set in a wooden café, the attention to detail is immaculate (chocolates come from small-batch organic makers Coco Chocolatiers, while teas come from Edinburgh loose-leaf specialists Eteaket), and the name – which translates as ‘black sheep’ – hints at the fact that they do things a bit differently.

Cuillin Coffee Co, Glenbrittle Campsite

Squeezed between the mountainous bulk of the Cuillins and the sandy spread of Loch Brittle Beach is this excellent campsite café, with speciality coffee, hot chocolate, freshly baked bread, sourdough pizzas and more.

Seumas’ Bar, Sligachan

Part of the Sligachan Hotel, this legendary climbers’ hang-out has been repeatedly named Whisky Bar of the Year, thanks to its collection of more than 400 Scottish malts. As well as the whiskies – the display of which is backlit to spectacular effect – you’ll also find local ales and cooked food.

Hame Hotel, Orbost, Near Dunvegan

Granting phenomenal views across Loch Roag, the Cuillins, and the flat-topped hills of Macleod’s Tables, this classy eight-room boutique hotel also has a great little restaurant.

Scorrybreac Restaurant, Portree

Locally foraged plants, wild venison and freshly caught seafood all figure on the menu of this fine-dining restaurant in Portree, overseen by head chef Calum Munro (another son of Runrig singer Donnie) and perched above the harbour. The food, the wine and the service are all on point.

The View Restaurant, Portree

An aptly named dining spot forming part of the Cuillin Hills Hotel, The View has panoramic windows overlooking the Portree Bay area. The restaurant’s Michelin Guide recommendation is well earned, with menus focusing on local produce such as steamed mussels, roasted scallops and Skye venison.

Coruisk House, Near Elgol

Lauded by everyone from The Times to The Good Food Guide, this charming loch-side hotel has elegant rooms (think free-standing bathtubs and muted colour schemes) and a restaurant serving a four-course set dinner menu. To eat, you’ll need to reserve at least 24 hours ahead – but it’s worth it.

The Restaurant at Duisdale House Hotel, Sleat

Once a 19th-century hunting lodge, Duisdale House has been transformed into a luxury family-run hotel with a double AA-rosette restaurant. The emphasis, as with so many of Skye’s best dining options, is on local produce, full flavours and intricate presentation.

Iona Restaurant, Sleat

Part of the four-star Toravaig House Hotel, Iona has an upmarket feel – the décor is part traditional fireside warmth and part contemporary chic – providing a peaceful spot for breakfasts, cream teas, and cheese and charcuterie boards. Sister hotel Duisdale House and its restaurant are just five minutes away, with complimentary return transport 
laid on.

Munros Bar, Portnalong, Minginish Peninsula

Featured in the CAMRA Guide and stocking everything from Talisker whisky and Speyside tequila to Skye Ales and its own exclusive Gillean Ale, Munros Bar is found within the Taigh Ailean Hotel, at the end of the Minginish Peninsula.

Chidakasha Skye,Duirinish Peninsula

A brilliant vegetarian restaurant and teahouse in a beautifully serene part of the Duirinish Peninsula, Chidakasha serves warming, Eastern-influenced dishes (the name is Sanskrit and means ‘abode of peace’) such as fava bean stew with garlic, coriander and cumin. Produce is organic where possible, and often picked from the croft’s own garden.

Antlers Bar & Grill, Portree

There’s quality pub grub to be had at this relaxed restaurant, which forms part of the Portree Hotel. Salads, burgers and seafood all figure.

YURTea & Coffee, Stein, Waternish Peninsula

A seasonal pop-up yurt at Skyeskyns Tannery, selling artisan coffee, speciality teas, homemade lemonade, local oatcakes and scones, and more besides. And if the day’s a chilly one, there are Skyeskyns sheepskins to keep you warm.

Kinloch Lodge, Sleat

This place is the real deal. Shimmering on the island’s south coast, Kinloch Lodge has offered five-star, family-run hospitality for more than 50 years. The food’s a particular highlight, along with a 122-strong whisky list. The rooms are stylish and you’ll also get the chance to try foraging, deer-stalking and the like.

Duncan House, Strathaird

A treasure of a find on the road between Broadford and Elgol, Duncan House is the studio and gallery of silversmith Gareth Duncan, specialising in handcrafted Celtic jewellery such as knotwork rings, clan crests and intricate brooches.

Shop

ÒR Portree

The name of this pair of Portree stores translates as ‘gold’, which neatly sums up their classy appeal. Found on Wentworth Street and The Green, they stock a neatly curated range of contemporary Scottish jewellery, art and crafts.

The Selkie Collective, Broadford

This “eco-conscious shop and women’s community collective”, founded by locals Emma Bee and Amy Bentall, has two main aims: to sell eco and sustainable products, including lots of refillable goods and fresh organic veg, and to provide a hub for women to connect, share and feel supported.

Hebridean Alpaca Company, Dunvegan

Alpacas are awesome. Not only are they remarkable animals in their own right (and you’ll find a small herd of them on the premises), they also provide some of the warmest, softest yarn around. This store, up near Dunvegan Castle, is the largest alpaca retail outlet in the Highlands.

Misty Bottle, Breakish

Formerly a post office, this store now performs a vital public service of another kind, as a purveyor of bottles of whisky, gin and craft beer. It does casual whisky and gin tastings too, so you can often try before you buy.

Donnie’s Tablet Shed, Waternish Peninsula 

This bright-pink roadside ‘shed’ – it’s barely three-feet high – on the Waternish Peninsula is stocked with homemade tablet (which is, for the uninitiated, a kind of sugary confection somewhere between hard candy and fudge) and an honesty box. As local as shopping gets.