The Road From Fort William To Ardnamurchan
Written by Graeme Johncock
The road to Ardnamurchan isn’t one for the faint hearted. Heading to the most westerly point on the Scottish mainland involves plenty of narrow, winding roads, but the journey is such a beautiful one that you’ll want to take your time anyway. Along the way you’ll find wildlife, historical monuments, one of my favourite castles and some outstanding scenery!
Stop At Glenfinnan
Heading west from Fort William will be the busiest road along this route, with some travellers heading to the ferry at Mallaig and even more with Glenfinnan in their sights. It’s become a difficult place to get parked in recent years thanks to the popularity of watching the Jacobite Express steam train cross the viaduct, but if you can get stopped then it’s well worth it! The viaduct is beautiful, but the real views are in the other direction, down the length of Loch Shiel. Beside the water stands the Glenfinnan Monument, raised to remember those who followed Bonnie Prince Charlie in the 1745 Jacobite Rising. This was where the campaign officially began and history was made!
Visit The Church of St Mary & St Finnan
Just a short hop up the hill stands a contender for best church view in Scotland. St Mary & St Finnan church looks over Loch Shiel and is usually open for a peek inside. Note the stained glass windows high up with symbols of surrounding area. Outside, the Glenfinnan Coffee Co offer great takeaway hot drinks from the wee horse box!
View The Seven Men of Moidart
Turning off the busy road to Mallaig takes you into a wilder area with stunning scenery as you skirt the edge of a series of Loch Ailort. Eventually, you’ll reach another chapter in the Jacobite story, with the Seven Men of Moidart. A viewpoint looks out to where seven beech trees once stood, named after the men who first landed with Bonnie Prince Charlie near here to begin his quest. There are only a couple trees left standing sadly, with new replacements struggling to grow in the wet ground. A little further along, keep your eyes open for a community honesty box on the left hand side!
Clamber To Castle Tioram
The ruined Castle Tioram is one of my favourites in all of Scotland, even though there’s no access to its interior. Its name translates as Dry Castle and as it sits on a small island, you can only walk out when the tide is low so always check the times before you visit. This was once home to the MacDonalds of Clanranald, a particularly wild and unruly branch of the clan. They would raid their neighbours before retreating to the safety of Loch Moidart, their chiefs rarely worrying about the consequences. Today, it’s an incredibly peaceful spot to let your imagination run wild!
Grab Lunch At Loch Shiel Hotel
Grab a traditional pub lunch at the Loch Shiel hotel in Acharacle and if its Sunday then their roast dinners are especially popular!
Hide Away at Garbh Eilean
On the shore of Loch Sunart, head down a sturdy wooden walkway to find a real hidden gem. It’s the Garbh Eilean Wildlife Hide and it’s one of the best places in the area to spot seals! There are always dozens of the animals sunning themselves on the rocks or swimming around in the water and the free telescope makes it easy to watch without disturbing them. There’s plenty of other wildlife to see if you keep quiet, including regular herons and other waterbirds. Otters have been spotted here before, but I’ve never been lucky enough on any of my trips!
Gaze Out At Camas nan Geall
Stop to catch your breath after a winding drive along the road and admire the view down to Camas nan Geall. This wide grassy area translates as Bay of the Strangers and there’s a lot of history packed into the area. There’s a standing stone hiding beside an old burial ground and the remains of a farming township on the hillside. The very name of the bay means that this could have been where early Christian missionaries or Viking raiders first landed. It’s a place to let your imagination roam, even if you don’t make the hike down from the parking area.
Climb Ardnamurchan Lighthouse
At the very end of the road, you’ll finally reach Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, built by the famous Stevenson engineering family in the 1800s. This is the far western tip of the Scottish mainland and the views don’t get much better than from the top of the tower, if you’ve got the energy to climb it! If you’re especially lucky, you might even get to meet the lighthouse dog, which gives you a good reason to stay at ground level and avoid all of those stairs!
Where to stay near the route
There are a handful of places along this stretch that make a strong case for slowing the journey down and staying the night. Glenhurich Lodge sits in a quiet pocket near Acharacle, offering a comfortable base with easy access to both Loch Shiel and the wilder reaches of Ardnamurchan. A little further west, the Kingairloch Estate cottages, including The Old School and Curlew Cottage, look out across Loch a’ Choire, with a sense of seclusion that suits this part of the Highlands. The setting here feels remote without being difficult to reach, and the estate itself has a long history tied to the surrounding land. Right at the far end of the peninsula, Borradill offers a more rugged coastal stay, with views that stretch out towards the islands and a real sense of having reached the edge of the mainland. Each of these places gives you the chance to experience the area at a slower pace, once the day visitors have turned back east.
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