Sutherland

Discovering Scotland’s Far Northwest

A day by car, from Stac Pollaidh to Knockan Crag Trail.

Written by Graeme Johncock

Directions

There are places in Scotland where the landscape stops you in your tracks. Assynt, in the far northwest, is one of the most astounding. No matter how many times I see the iconic mountains of Suilven and Stac Pollaidh or the sweeping sandy beaches, I don’t think I’ll ever get used to them.

The route

Before you go

  1. Book accommodation nearby

    If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.

    The nearest of ours is Fjell, 10 miles away. Sleeps 2; next free Thu 12 Nov to Sat 14 Nov.

    Then Fjord, 10 miles away. Sleeps 4; next free Fri 16 Oct to Sun 18 Oct.

  1. Stac Pollaidh

    Stac Pollaidh

    An attraction

    Along the side of Loch Lurgainn, you can’t help but stop and admire the craggy peak of Stac Pollaidh. It’s only around 2000ft high, but it’s full of spiky character and beloved of hikers from around Scotland. If you spend the 3 hours or so making the hike, then you’ll be rewarded with outstanding views from the summit!

  2. 5 min on foot

    Achnahaird Beach

    Achnahaird Beach

    An attraction

    You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to beaches on this western coastline, but my pick is usually Achnahaird. That little bit more remote than other spots, and taking 5 minutes of walking through a sheep-filled field, it’s usually quieter than some of the other options. When the tide is out, the white sandy beach is enormous and when the water comes in, the waves can crash and roar. There’s a good chance you’ll spot seals bobbing around, keeping a wary eye on visitors. All of that while the mountains to the east loom in an impressive backdrop!

  3. About 15 min by car

    Lochinver Larder

    Lochinver Larder

    An attraction

    The road ahead is a twisting, winding, slow 17 miles, but the scenery is worth taking your time travelling through anyway. Your reward at the end is the famous Lochinver Larder and their incredible collection of pies. I could recommend any one of them, but nothing beats a good filling of local venison!

    More about Lochinver Larder
  4. About 20 min by car

    Wailing Widow Falls

    Wailing Widow Falls

    An attraction

    The parking area for Allt Chranaidh Waterfall, otherwise known as the Wailing Widow Falls, isn’t large, but it’s worth stopping if possible. A trail heads off into the steep-sided gorge, requiring a little scrambling over rocks, leading to one of Scotland’s most impressive waterfalls. The water pours from a loch up on the cliff and legend tells us that a hunter fell from the top while chasing a deer. Depending on the story, either a wife or a mother threw herself into this gorge in grief, giving the waterfall its name. It’s a tragic tale for such a beautiful sight.

    More about Wailing Widow Falls
  5. About 10 min by car

    Ardvreck Castle

    Ardvreck Castle

    An attraction

    Jutting out into Loch Assynt on a tiny peninsula, Ardvreck Castle seems to sprout up out of the rock itself. Built by the MacLeods of Assynt, there’s not much left of the castle, but it’s a place packed with stories. Legend says it was built with help from the Devil in return for MacLeod’s daughter’s hand in marriage. When the girl discovered the deal, she threw herself into the loch but instead of dying, she transformed into a mermaid! Eventually, the MacLeods lost their home to the Mackenzies, who then built Calda House, still to be seen further along the loch. It was easily the biggest house in the Northwest Highlands, but was destroyed by fire in 1737. Assynt had been purchased by the Earl of Sutherland and the story goes that the Mackenzies destroyed their own home rather than let their rivals get their hands on it!

  6. About 20 min by car

    Knockan Crag Trail

    Knockan Crag Trail

    A walk

    There’s no better place to learn about what really makes up this part of Scotland than Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve. It’s a geologist’s dream, where millions of years of history are told through the surrounding rocks. Even if you don’t geek out on rocks, it’s still somewhere worth exploring. Follow the guided trail from the open-air visitor centre, which explains the Moine Thrust through displays, sculptures and interpretation boards. The landscape here was fiercely debated in the 19th century when old rock was discovered sitting on top of younger rock, a situation that didn’t make sense until two geologists explained the process through huge shifts of tectonic plates! It takes less than an hour to follow the trail and see evidence of how Scotland was made many millions of years ago.

    More about Knockan Crag Trail

Photographs by Craig Thomson, Norman Jones, Delcho Rusinov and Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve via Google