Sutherland

Driving Scotland’s North Coast

A day by car, from Balnakeil Church to Forsinard Flows.

Written by Graeme Johncock

In recent years, the north of Scotland has had a lot more attention thanks to the North Coast 500, but the coastline between Durness and Thurso often gets rushed along. It’s somewhere packed with history and folklore in some of the most beautiful surroundings – all things I like to focus on when travelling!

It doesn’t matter which direction you go, there’s a lot to see between point A and B on Scotland’s north coast.

How: A day by car
Distance: About 59 miles
Starts: Balnakeil Church
Ends: Forsinard Flows
Good for: Food and drink, Castles, History, Beaches, A rainy day

The day

Balnakeil Church
An attraction
Starting almost in the very northwestern corner of the mainland, Balnakeil is just a short hop from the village of Durness. Beside a beautiful sandy beach, you’ll find the ruins of an old church that’s home to two very different men. An obelisk remembers Rob Donn Mackay, a poet, a cowherd, a poacher turned gamekeeper and somebody who stood up for social justice! Although illiterate, his words are an incredible commentary on the turbulent 18th century Highlands, thankfully written down by the local minister’s daughter. Inside the church you’ll find a stone marking the resting place of a much less respected character. Duncan MacMorrach, known as MacMurdo, was a dangerous enforcer for the local Mackay Lairds and somebody you didn’t want to cross, otherwise you might disappear…
More about Balnakeil Church
The rest of this day is for members.
8 more stops, what to do at each, and the drive between them. Members read every one of our days, and the magazine.
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Smoo Cave
An attraction
Ceannabeinne Village Ruins
An attraction
Ceannabeinne Beach
An attraction
Loch Eriboll Viewpoint
An attraction
Norse Bakehouse
Food and drink
Castle Varrich
An attraction
Strathnaver Museum
An attraction
Forsinard Flows
An attraction