Driving Scotland’s North Coast

Written by Graeme Johncock
In recent years, the north of Scotland has had a lot more attention thanks to the North Coast 500, but the coastline between Durness and Thurso often gets rushed along. It’s somewhere packed with history and folklore in some of the most beautiful surroundings – all things I like to focus on when travelling!
It doesn’t matter which direction you go, there’s a lot see between point A and B on Scotland’s north coast.
Balnakeil Church
Starting almost in the very northwestern corner of the mainland, Balnakeil is just a short hop from the village of Durness. Beside a beautiful sandy beach, you’ll find the ruins of an old church that’s home to two very different men. An obelisk remembers Rob Donn Mackay, a poet, a...
Smoo Cave
One of the most spectacular sights anywhere in Scotland, Smoo Cave is an impressive natural wonder. This enormous cavern hasn’t just been formed by the waves crashing into the cliff, but by a river that pours through a hole in the top too! On most days, once inside, you can...
Ceannabeinne Village Ruins
There’s only a small parking lane and it’s easy to miss, but the ruins of Ceannabeinne Township are well worth taking the time to explore. In 1841, this was a busy community of 50 people but by 1842, it was entirely abandoned. Follow the trail around the information boards and...
Ceannabeinne Beach
Just below the township, but accessed from another car park, Ceannabeinne Beach is one of the best examples of the many stunning beaches on the north coast. It’s a bit of a hike down, but worth it if you have the energy to get back up. If the weather is...
Loch Eriboll Viewpoint
The scenery as you drive around Loch Eriboll is breathtaking and it’s well worth stopping at the viewpoint to take it all in. It’s been used as a natural harbour for centuries, including by King Haakon’s Norwegian fleet on its way to the Battle of Largs. It became important during...
Lunch At Norse Bakehouse
Delicious food with a beautiful view, sit outside if the weather is good enough and enjoy one of their delicious focaccia sandwiches!
Castle Varrich
This is clan Mackay territory and the chief’s old tower keeps watch at the top of a hill above the village of Tongue. It’s a very small ruin and takes around an hour round trip to walk to, but the sweeping views from the top of the walkway inside make...
Strathnaver Museum
Found in the old church at Bettyhill, the Strathnaver Museum is packed with local history and one of my big highlights from the entire north coast. While there’s history stretching back thousands of years, including a Pictish stone in the graveyard, there’s a strong emphasis on the Highland Clearances. One...
Forsinard Flows
As you head east, you’re leaving the mountains behind and entering the Flow Country. While it’s a bit of a detour, the vast peat bog is best seen from the tower built at Forsinard Flows. Take in the vast landscape from here and keep your ears and eyes open for...
Balnakeil Church











Starting almost in the very northwestern corner of the mainland, Balnakeil is just a short hop from the village of Durness. Beside a beautiful sandy beach, you’ll find the ruins of an old church that’s home to two very different men. An obelisk remembers Rob Donn Mackay, a poet, a cowherd, a poacher turned gamekeeper and somebody who stood up for social justice! Although illiterate, his words are an incredible commentary on the turbulent 18th century Highlands, thankfully written down by the local minister’s daughter. Inside the church you’ll find a stone marking the resting place of a much less respected character. Duncan MacMorrach, known as MacMurdo, was a dangerous enforcer for the local Mackay Lairds and somebody you didn’t want to cross, otherwise you might disappear…











Smoo Cave











One of the most spectacular sights anywhere in Scotland, Smoo Cave is an impressive natural wonder. This enormous cavern hasn’t just been formed by the waves crashing into the cliff, but by a river that pours through a hole in the top too! On most days, once inside, you can follow a walkway to get pretty close to the crashing waterfall. This place is packed with legends, from the murderous MacMurdo disposing of bodies down the hole to the evil Wizard of Reay – a former resident of the cave. It doesn’t take long to walk around, but you can see why a place like this is firmly rooted in local folklore!











Ceannabeinne Village Ruins











There’s only a small parking lane and it’s easy to miss, but the ruins of Ceannabeinne Township are well worth taking the time to explore. In 1841, this was a busy community of 50 people but by 1842, it was entirely abandoned. Follow the trail around the information boards and learn how the local families fought against their forced evictions. It was part of the brutal Highland Clearances, with landowners more interested in profit than in people. The residents may have lost their battle, but their plight soon brought around lasting change!











Ceannabeinne Beach









Just below the township, but accessed from another car park, Ceannabeinne Beach is one of the best examples of the many stunning beaches on the north coast. It’s a bit of a hike down, but worth it if you have the energy to get back up. If the weather is good, thrillseekers can even zipline across the beach from the cliffs on either side!









Loch Eriboll Viewpoint











The scenery as you drive around Loch Eriboll is breathtaking and it’s well worth stopping at the viewpoint to take it all in. It’s been used as a natural harbour for centuries, including by King Haakon’s Norwegian fleet on its way to the Battle of Largs. It became important during WWII, with bombers using the islands to practice their operations and later seeing the surrender of 33 Nazi U-boats!











Lunch At Norse Bakehouse











Delicious food with a beautiful view, sit outside if the weather is good enough and enjoy one of their delicious focaccia sandwiches!











Castle Varrich






This is clan Mackay territory and the chief’s old tower keeps watch at the top of a hill above the village of Tongue. It’s a very small ruin and takes around an hour round trip to walk to, but the sweeping views from the top of the walkway inside make it worthwhile if you have the time.






Strathnaver Museum







Found in the old church at Bettyhill, the Strathnaver Museum is packed with local history and one of my big highlights from the entire north coast. While there’s history stretching back thousands of years, including a Pictish stone in the graveyard, there’s a strong emphasis on the Highland Clearances. One of the most poignant items in the collection is also probably the largest - the church pulpit where the minister was forced to read the eviction notices. Hundreds of people gazed at this very structure when they heard the news that flipped their world upside down!







Forsinard Flows












As you head east, you’re leaving the mountains behind and entering the Flow Country. While it’s a bit of a detour, the vast peat bog is best seen from the tower built at Forsinard Flows. Take in the vast landscape from here and keep your ears and eyes open for the wide variety of birds that call this place home, but make sure to get back across the walkway before sunset – you don’t want to risk stepping in the bog on your way back to the car!












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