Driving Scotland’s North Coast

Graeme Johncock

Written by Graeme Johncock

In recent years, the north of Scotland has had a lot more attention thanks to the North Coast 500, but the coastline between Durness and Thurso often gets rushed along. It’s somewhere packed with history and folklore in some of the most beautiful surroundings – all things I like to focus on when travelling!

It doesn’t matter which direction you go, there’s a lot see between point A and B on Scotland’s north coast.

1

Balnakeil Church

Starting almost in the very northwestern corner of the mainland, Balnakeil is just a short hop from the village of Durness. Beside a beautiful sandy beach, you’ll find the ruins of an old church that’s home to two very different men. An obelisk remembers Rob Donn Mackay, a poet, a...

2

Smoo Cave

One of the most spectacular sights anywhere in Scotland, Smoo Cave is an impressive natural wonder. This enormous cavern hasn’t just been formed by the waves crashing into the cliff, but by a river that pours through a hole in the top too! On most days, once inside, you can...

3

Ceannabeinne Village Ruins

There’s only a small parking lane and it’s easy to miss, but the ruins of Ceannabeinne Township are well worth taking the time to explore. In 1841, this was a busy community of 50 people but by 1842, it was entirely abandoned. Follow the trail around the information boards and...

4

Ceannabeinne Beach

Just below the township, but accessed from another car park, Ceannabeinne Beach is one of the best examples of the many stunning beaches on the north coast. It’s a bit of a hike down, but worth it if you have the energy to get back up. If the weather is...

5

Loch Eriboll Viewpoint

The scenery as you drive around Loch Eriboll is breathtaking and it’s well worth stopping at the viewpoint to take it all in. It’s been used as a natural harbour for centuries, including by King Haakon’s Norwegian fleet on its way to the Battle of Largs. It became important during...

6

Lunch At Norse Bakehouse

Delicious food with a beautiful view, sit outside if the weather is good enough and enjoy one of their delicious focaccia sandwiches!

7

Castle Varrich

This is clan Mackay territory and the chief’s old tower keeps watch at the top of a hill above the village of Tongue. It’s a very small ruin and takes around an hour round trip to walk to, but the sweeping views from the top of the walkway inside make...

8

Strathnaver Museum

Found in the old church at Bettyhill, the Strathnaver Museum is packed with local history and one of my big highlights from the entire north coast. While there’s history stretching back thousands of years, including a Pictish stone in the graveyard, there’s a strong emphasis on the Highland Clearances. One...

9

Forsinard Flows

As you head east, you’re leaving the mountains behind and entering the Flow Country. While it’s a bit of a detour, the vast peat bog is best seen from the tower built at Forsinard Flows. Take in the vast landscape from here and keep your ears and eyes open for...