Waternish – An Evening by Loch Bay and Supper at the Stein Inn
A few hours.
The route
Stein is a row of whitewashed houses on the shore of Loch Bay in Waternish, and at the end of it stands the Stein Inn, the oldest inn on Skye by its own account.
Stop on the way at the Fairy Bridge, where a MacLeod chief is said to have parted from his fairy wife, then walk the shore road at Stein before settling in by the fire for supper.
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
The day
Waternish
A late afternoon by the water on the west side of Waternish, with an old story on the way and a log fire and a good supper at the end of it.
About three and a half hours
Fairy Bridge
A walk
Start at the Fairy Bridge, where the Waternish road, the B886, leaves the main road between Dunvegan and Edinbane. Pull into the lay-by just along the B886 from the junction, where the old stone bridge crosses the burn beside the newer road. The story goes that a MacLeod chief married a fairy, who after a year and a day had to go back to her own people. They parted here, and she left him a banner, the Fairy Flag of Dunvegan. Ten minutes is plenty.
9 min by car
Stein
Stein is 9 minutes' drive on along the B886. Park in the public car park on the shore road. The British Fisheries Society planned a fishing village here in 1790, to a design by Thomas Telford, but only a small part was built, and today it's a short row of whitewashed houses by the water. Walk the shore road while the light lasts, looking out over Loch Bay.
The Stein Inn Bar
Supper
The Stein Inn is two minutes' walk along the row, with INN painted big on its gable and 1790 carved over the door. It has stone walls, low beams and log burners, Skye beers and over 120 Scottish whiskies. Supper is from 5pm to 9pm every day, and the bar opens at noon. Try the Loch Bay mussels or langoustines, or haddock in Skye beer batter. Children and dogs are welcome, with a children's menu. Book on its website or walk in, and ring 01470 592362 if in doubt.
If it rains
The Fairy Bridge takes a minute from the lay-by in any weather. On a wet or wild evening, give the shore road at Stein a few minutes and go straight in to the log burners at the Stein Inn.
Make it a weekend
More days out on the Isle of Skye.
Photograph by Un Vagabundo via Google
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