A Day On The Isle of Barra
Written by Graeme Johncock
Scotland has over 90 permanently inhabited islands to explore, but most people will only ever see Skye, Mull, Harris or Lewis. One of my favourite hidden gems is somewhere a little quieter, at the very south of the Outer Hebrides – the Isle of Barra. I’ve travelled there both by plane and by ferry, but no matter how you arrive, this is how I would spend a day there.
Kisimul Castle
An icon of the Isle of Barra stands proudly on a rock in the middle of the aptly named Castlebay – Kisimul Castle. Once home to Clan MacNeil, they had a particularly impressive chief in the later 1500s known as Ruari the Turbulent. He pillaged so many passing ships that Kisimul’s cellar was full of the finest wine and wall’s decorated in expensive silks! Unfortunately, due to conservation work, the castle is closed to visitors at the moment. During the tourist season, Historic Scotland do run free boat trips which should be booked in advance, however, even the view from the village is incredible!
Isle of Barra Gin Distillery
While Scotland might be famous for whisky, if you’re on the Isle of Barra then I highly recommend sampling their gin! While the distillery doesn’t offer tours, there is an onsite shop that allows you to try some samples and pick up a bottle to take home. As well as being delicious, you can feel good that profits go back into supporting the local community!
Cille Bharra
Head to the very north of the island and explore the unassuming church of Cille Bharra, set in beautiful surroundings. Most of the 12th century buildings are in ruins, but this has most likely been a religious site since the 600s! It’s dedicated to St Barr, the early preacher who gives the island of Barra its name. The only part that still has a roof is the 16th century North Chapel, used as a mausoleum for MacNeils and usually left unlocked for visitors. Inside, as well as spectacularly carved graveslabs, is the Kilbar Stone. With a Christian cross on one side, there are Norse runes on the reverse – the perfect example of the Outer Hebrides Viking past!
Lunch at the airport
The airport might seem like a strange place for a lunch recommendation, but trust me that the food here is absolutely outstanding. As well as soups and sandwiches, we enjoyed specials like smoked mackerel, local lamb stew and hand-dived scallops. As an added bonus, if timed right then you can watch the tiny planes landing on the world’s only commercial beach runway!
Climb Heaval
To work off all of that lunch, take a hike up Heaval, the highest point of Barra. If you park at the foot of the hill, then it’s a short but steep hike of less than an hour to the summit, but you can also walk in from Castlebay, making the round trip closer to 3 hours. On a clear day, the views go on for miles around the surrounding lower islands. As an extra incentive, there’s a beautiful statue of the Virgin and Child high up the slopes known locally as Our Lady of the Seas.
Shop at Bùth Bharraigh
As you pass through Castlebay, stop in at Bùth Bharraigh, a small shop that doubles up as a community hub and social enterprise. There are locally made crafts and produce to purchase as well as regular snacks and treats! The staff are also a wealth of knowledge when it comes to what’s happening on the island and can help you find things like accommodation for a fee.
Barra Heritage Centre
Learn all about the history and culture of Barra and what life was once like on the island with a visit to the Heritage Centre. There are artefacts, photographs and videos to explore as well as a reconstruction of what life in a traditional Blackhouse would have been like.
Head To Vatersay Beaches
Now linked to Barra by a causeway, there’s no better way to end the day than a visit to the pristine twin beaches of the Isle of Vatersay. The main road travels between Bàgh Siar (West Bay), and Bàgh Bhatarsaigh (Vatersay Bay) and while both are beautiful, my personal favourite is the eastern beach. Cross over the fine grassy machair, through a dilapidated gate and walk out where white sand meets turquoise water. It looks like paradise, although the water isn’t quite as warm as the Caribbean! It’s still a popular place for a swim or even a snooze, but be aware that there are over cattle grazing around the beach so just be careful where you step!
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