A Day Exploring North Mull and Ulva
A day by car, from Aros Castle to Tobermory.
Written by Graeme Johncock
I might be from Scotland’s east coast, but I love a trip to the Hebrides. They all have something special to offer, but the one I find myself drawn back to time and again is the Isle of Mull. It’s got mountains, castles, history, scenery and plenty more to keep you busy for multiple days. A trip around the northern half of Mull even allows you to hop onto another smaller island, making it feel like twice the adventure!
The route
Before you go
Book accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
The nearest of ours is Borradill House in Glenborrodale, 8 miles away. Sleeps 6; next free Sun 15 Nov to Tue 17 Nov.
Then Borradill Cottage, 8 miles away. Sleeps 4; next free Sun 29 Nov to Tue 1 Dec.
Aros Castle
An attraction
While Duart Castle is the one most people have heard of, there’s another ancient fortress of Mull with a long history. Aros Castle is a dramatic ruin perched on the cliff near the road, so overgrown that even its massive walls often seem to blend into the background. Built by the MacDougalls in the 13th century before passing into the hands of the MacDonalds, Aros was where the Lords of the Isles kept watch over their domain. Look out over the bay below and imagine dozens of warships drawn up, ready to strike at a moment's notice!
About 20 min by car
Ulva Ferry Port
An attraction
A small, winding road cuts across the centre of Mull, with beautiful scenery stretching out before you as you head towards Ulva Ferry. Across the short gap of water is the Isle of Ulva and there’s only one way to get there. Slide a panel on the board from white to red, telling the Ulva Ferryman that somebody is waiting. When you see the small boat heading across, make sure to slide it back to white again! It’s simple, but I get a little bit of joy every time I get to do it!
About 25 min by car
Ulva House Garden
An attraction
A short walk from the ferry brings you to Ulva House, the island’s historic heart. This was once the seat of the chiefs of Clan MacQuarrie, although this version was rebuilt after a fire in 1955. It’s recently gained more attention after a BBC show focusing on its renovation. While the house is private, the gardens are still open to the public to wander. The garden is a cultivated pocket in a much wilder island.
More about Ulva House GardenAbout 25 min by car
Ulva Farm Walk
A walk
A circular route known as the Ulva Farm Walk gives you more of a view around the island, with mostly flat and well-made paths. Thanks to the kelp industry boom, the island was once home to over 600 people, although once that collapsed, the population steadily left. Not so long ago, only five residents remained, but now Ulva is in community hands, the numbers are increasing again. The views are beautiful, but remember the stories and challenges of the island’s residents as you go.
More about Ulva Farm Walk
The Boathouse
Food and drink
Before heading back over to Mull, there’s nowhere better for lunch than the Boathouse. The fresh seafood is always a highlight, but there’s lots more to satisfy any taste.
More about The BoathouseAbout 5 min by car
Eas Fors Waterfall
An attraction
Once you’ve taken the small ferry back to Mull, it’s a short drive to one of the island’s most spectacular natural sights, with a very peculiar name. Eas Fors Waterfall, tumbling down the cliffs into the sea, translates as waterfall, waterfall, waterfall! Eas is Gaelic, Fors is Norse and Waterfall is English – it was such an impressive sight that every group who moved here just gave it the same name!
About 5 min by car
Lip na Cloiche Garden
An attraction
Making the most of its sheltered position and the warming influence of the Gulf Stream, Lip na Cloiche Garden has an astonishing variety of plants. It’s a private home, but the owner is kind enough to let visitors explore the grounds for a donation. Either potter around the low level or take a short hike up to the heights for even more interesting species. For any green thumbs, there are plants for sale, so you can start your own exotic garden back home!
More about Lip na Cloiche GardenAbout 15 min by car
Calgary Bay
An attraction
Calgary Bay can be one of the busier places on Mull, but it deserves all the attention that it gets. The pristine white sands are sandwiched between beautiful water and wildflower-filled machair. For any Canadians who recognise the name, this small bay is what the city of Calgary was ultimately named for! On a sunny day, make sure to grab an ice cream from the small shack!
Calgary Art in Nature
An attraction
Don’t rush away without checking out Calgary Art in Nature. For those with lots of time, there’s a woodland trail with art installations to explore in the wild. Anybody who doesn’t fancy the walk can enjoy a quiet indoor gallery or a coffee from the shop next door!
More about Calgary Art in NatureAbout 20 min by car
Tobermory
An attraction
The road is a dramatic, winding one, cutting across Mull’s northern headland. It naturally leads back to the busy hub of Tobermory, the island’s main settlement, famous for its coloured houses along the waterfront. There are plenty of independent stores, cafes and galleries if you have the energy, but I’m more likely to enjoy a dram of whisky in Mishnish after a long day of exploring!
Make it a weekend
Days that start near Tobermory.
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Photographs by Andy Shillam, Ulva House, Svetlana and Sarah Dodds via Google; jacme31