A Day Exploring North Mull and Ulva

Aros Castle

While Duart Castle is the one most people have heard of, there’s another ancient fortress of Mull with a long history. Aros Castle is a dramatic ruin perched on the cliff near the road, so overgrown that even its massive walls often seem to blend into the background. Built by the MacDougalls in the 13th century before passing into the hands of the MacDonalds, Aros was where the Lords of the Isles kept watch over their domain. Look out over the bay below and imagine dozens of warships drawn up, ready to strike at a moment's notice!

Ulva Ferry

A small, winding road cuts across the centre of Mull, with beautiful scenery stretching out before you as you head towards Ulva Ferry. Across the short gap of water is the Isle of Ulva and there’s only one way to get there. Slide a panel on the board from white to red, telling the Ulva Ferryman that somebody is waiting. When you see the small boat heading across, make sure to slide it back to white again! It’s simple, but I get a little bit of joy every time I get to do it!

Ulva House Garden

A short walk from the ferry brings you to Ulva House, the island’s historic heart. This was once the seat of the chiefs of Clan MacQuarrie, although this version was rebuilt after a fire in 1955. It’s recently gained more attention after a BBC show focusing on its renovation. While the house is private, the gardens are still open to the public to wander. It’s a beautiful haven amongst a much wilder landscape around the rest of Ulva!

Ulva Farm Walk

A circular route known as the Ulva Farm Walk gives you more of a view around the island, with mostly flat and well-made paths. Thanks to the kelp industry boom, the island was once home to over 600 people, although once that collapsed, the population steadily left. Not so long ago, only five residents remained, but now Ulva is in community hands, the numbers are increasing again. The views are beautiful, but remember the stories and challenges of the island’s residents as you go.

Lunch at The Boathouse

Before heading back over to Mull, there’s nowhere better for lunch than the Boathouse. The fresh seafood is always a highlight, but there’s lots more to satisfy any taste.

Eas Fors Waterfall

Once taking the small ferry back to Mull, it’s a short drive to one of the island’s most spectacular natural sights, with a very peculiar name. Eas Fors Waterfall, tumbling down the cliffs into the sea, translates as waterfall, waterfall, waterfall! Eas is Gaelic, Fors is Norse and Waterfall is English – it was such an impressive sight that every group who moved here just gave it the same name!

Lip na Cloiche Garden

I don’t usually like the term “hidden gem”, but Lip na Cloiche Garden has earned it. Making the most of its sheltered position and the warming influence of the Gulf Stream, this garden has a truly astonishing variety of plants. It’s a private home, but the owner is kind enough to let visitors explore the grounds for a donation. Either potter around the low level or take a short hike up to the heights for even more interesting species. For any green thumbs, there are plants for sale, so you can start your own exotic garden back home!

Calgary Bay

Calgary BayCalgary Bay can be one of the busier places on Mull, but it deserves all the attention that it gets. The pristine white sands are sandwiched between beautiful water and wildflower-filled machair. For any Canadians who recognise the name, this small bay is what the city of Calgary was ultimately named for! On a sunny day, make sure to grab an ice cream from the small shack!

Calgary Art in Nature

Don’t rush away without checking out Calgary Art in Nature. For those with lots of time, there’s a woodland trail with art installations to explore in the wild. Anybody who doesn’t fancy the walk can enjoy a quiet indoor gallery or a coffee from the shop next door!

Tobermory

The road is a dramatic, winding one, cutting across Mull’s northern headland. It naturally leads back to the bustling hub of Tobermory, the island’s main settlement, famous for its coloured houses along the waterfront. There are plenty of independent stores, cafes and galleries if you have the energy, but I’m more likely to enjoy a dram of whisky in Mishnish after a long day of exploring!