Argyll and Bute

Walking on Kerrera

A day on foot.

Written by Graeme Johncock

Scotland has around 100 inhabited islands, some large and some small. The Isle of Kerrera is definitely on the smaller end of the scale. It’s the long, low bit of land that makes Oban such a good harbour and while seen by thousands every year, few make the effort to visit. Kerrera feels a world away from the busy streets of Oban and it’s quickly become one of my favourite islands to escape to for a day’s walking!

Pick your dates, and who is coming, and every stop will say whether it is open that day, and what it is like with children, a dog or a wheelchair.

How: A day on foot
Distance: About 8 miles
Starts: Kerrera Ferry
Good for: Food and drink, Castles, Walks, Islands, Gardens

Book before you go

0 of 2 booked

Accommodation nearby
If you are staying over: here are ours nearest where the day starts and ends.
4 miles awayGlencruitten HouseA place to stay 6 miles awayUisge BothySleeps 2 6 miles awayBeathaSleeps 2 CrogganFern CottageSleeps 4
Kerrera Ferry
Buy your Kerrera Ferry tickets online from CalMac before you set out, or at the ferry terminal in Oban on the way, as every passenger needs a ticket before boarding at Gallanach.
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The day

Kerrera Ferry
An attraction
The main ferry to Kerrera leaves from Gallanach, just a few minutes south of Oban. It’s a tiny boat and the only vehicles allowed are for island residents. If there’s any more than 12 people waiting, the ferry will go back and forward until they’re all over. Don’t worry if you don’t make the first cut, the trip takes less than five minutes each way and, in my opinion, standing there with the wind rushing past and waves spraying up is all part of the experience!
More about Kerrera Ferry
About 30 min on foot
Kerrera Southern Loop
An attraction
Kerrera is split into two halves and while both can make for good walks, it’s the southern section that’s most interesting to me. Following the track takes you first round the large Horse Shoe Bay with beautiful views back to the mainland. Keep your eyes open for the little teapots and cups on fence posts leading the way!
More about Kerrera Southern Loop
About 1 hr on foot
Dail Righ
An attraction
On the other side, an inconspicuous fenced area, probably filled with sheep is known as Dail Righ – King’s Field. It's said that this is where King Alexander II decided to start taking back the Hebrides from the Norse in 1249. They had been taken by Norway over a century earlier, but Alexander felt strong enough to begin his conquest. That night, with his fleet anchored in the bay, the king was visited in his dreams by saints Columba, Magnus and Olaf. They all warned him not to land on Kerrera, but he ignored the prophetic visions and after stepping ashore at this spot, he had a fit and died!
More about Dail Righ
Dail Righ
An attraction
After skirting round Little Horse Shoe Bay, keep your eyes open for a rocky outcrop across an open grassy field. It doesn’t look like much from the ground, but that’s an Iron Age fort that’s evidence of Kerrera being inhabited for over 2000 years! It’s a short but steep hike to the top and once there, the low stone walls around the perimeter are unmistakable. The views up and down the Sound of Kerrera are spectacular from here, you can see why the island’s early residents picked this spot.
More about Dail Righ
About 20 min on foot
Kerrera Tea Garden
A café
The path then moves away from the coast, heading inland and over a ridge where you’ll spot one of Kerrera’s big attractions. It’s not a castle or waterfall but a tiny tea garden. Some people make this whole trip just to visit here and the soups, sandwiches and coffee are well worth it! Just be aware that it’s only usually open between April and September.
More about Kerrera Tea Garden
About 10 min on foot
Gylen Castle
An attraction
As you carry on south, around a small cliff, the spectacular ruin of Gylen Castle comes into view. Impossibly perched high on a crag above crashing waves, it’s an impressive icon of the island. A short hike will take you up to the tower house and it’s possible to go inside and explore what’s left of the tiny tower. Gylen is a fairly new castle by Scottish standards, only built in 1582 by Clan MacDougall. It helped to guard access through the Sound of Kerrera but would only be inhabited for 65 years. In 1647, the Royalist MacDougalls were besieged by a Covenanter army and forced to surrender and watch the castle be destroyed after their water supply ran dry!
More about Gylen Castle
Views to Mull
While the first half of Kerrera’s southern loop is all action from King’s deaths to ruined castles, once you reach the western side of the island, it’s a much calmer affair. While there isn’t an abundance of historical sites, the views more than make up for it. I often find myself stopping again and again to take in the sweeping views to the mountains of Mull in the west and the low-lying Isle of Lismore further north. You’ll pass ruined cottages beside modern homes and most likely cows lazing on the beach! These tracks were once drovers roads for cattle heading to market using Kerrera as a stepping stone from Mull.
Balliemore Farm Shop, Kerrera
A shop
Just before arriving back at the ferry pier, you’ll spot the Balliemore Farm Shop. There’s usually locally raised meat to buy here as well as crafts, sweets and ice creams for hot days. It’s the perfect way to support the local community of this special wee island before heading back home!
More about Balliemore Farm Shop, Kerrera